Window corrosion

[jcearley]

I've got a '41 Convertible that has a white corrosion around the starboard side window. Of course these are sliding windows that haven't been opened for years. We clean up the white powder that it comes out, looks like baking soda, everytime we go to the boat. Is anyone else having a problem with this?

 

[LTCBKM]

Window Corrosion

Yes, I have the same challenge with the windows on my 61'. It appears to me to be aluminum oxidation. I haven't gotten to that little project just yet (just bought mine in Aug04) but I plan to clean the window frames thoroughly and then 'seal' these small erruptions with clear urethane or ? I am anxious to hear other's experience and great ideas.

 

[pirate1960]

window frames

Clean the frames out with some very warm soap and water, new felt is available from SAM'S . If you pull the frames, you can hot water pressure wash them and then you'll have to change the felt. The plastic guide will probably stay good. I fixed my holes from the inside with JB weld and never again had a problem. You got to get all the old salt out of the frame, or this problem will be with you forever.

 

[Salty Dame]

Corrosion

Did you get the forward pane to slide or was it ever meant to?. I have the same corrosion problem on my 41 and it may be leaking through the bottom and down into the cabin side. I might try the JB weld.

 

[67hat34c]

window frames

I am currently re finishing my front windows. Yes refinishing instead of just filling them in. I removed the frames and sand blasted them. took dremel and ground the real bad places. having a friend mig weld them. plan to re anodize the sand blasted surface then paint over the top. I am using an alumiprep acid to clean as well. I know alot of work; but the sand blast, welding and paint are not costing me anything otherwise new frames would be cheeper.
I am considering attaching the window frames to the bonding system. I think the frames need an anode to corrode instead of the frames. also what about keeping wd 40 inside the tracks, seems it would help keep away the corrosion.
My sliding side frames sound like the yours. I plan to pull them and make fixed window frames using material from sams. I tried the jb weld which held for short time but corrosion came back within a year. however did not pull the frames and clean them properly with glass out..

 

[doc g]

window corrosion

There are companies that "restore" the frames . It involves removing the frame ,glass etc,then they "hot tank" the frames to remove all corrosion ,paint and other stuff and then refinish the frame and reassemble.It's worth it if the frames are in good enough shape to do it. If not new frames can be had from Hatteras .Hatteras custom makes each one ,so they need the old frame or a pattern to make a new one.Previous owner had it done on with my 61. All window frames were replaced with new from Hatteras. I've also heard there are companies / boatyards which can do them frameless like the new Hats which IMHO is the better way to do it especially if you never open them anyway. I looked at a 70 in Fla which had all the front windows done that way ......no maintenance and looks really new also. I've seen alot of boats that get the frames painted on the outside yearly also,which is to me skirting the issue as the corrosion continues to rot them out from the inside along the tracks .

 

[Banshee36]

window corrorision

I had the same problems. Had the windows atripped , primed and painted, however where the Stainless mounting screw cutthe paint the paint flaked off. I have since then install new windos and glass. I used a product call TUFF GEL. So far for two yeard no Noticable corrrosion evident. Just goop up the head of the screw before you drive the screw home. Use plenty.
Hope this helps you out.
JW

 

[67HAT34C]

INSTALLING ALUMINUM FRAMES

I TALKED TO SEVERAL WINDOW BUILDERS. A FEW OF THEM DO NOT USE MECHANICAL FASTNERS, THEY USE 5200 WITH A FEW SCREWS TO HOLD IN PLACE, ONCE 5200 CURES THEN SCREWS ARE REMOVED AND THE HOLES SEALED, NO MORE GALVONIC CORROSION. HOWEVER DIFFICULT TO REMOVE. ONE GUY SAID TO REMOVE THEM WHEN 5200 IS USED, HE USES A SHARPENED 4" DRY WALL KNIFE TO CUT IT.

THE IDEA MAKE SINCE TO ME. HOWEVER WE HAVE A BROW OVER FRONT WINDOWS. WOULD BE DIFFICLUT TO USE CUTTING TOOL ON THE TOP OF THE FRAMES.

JUST A THOUGHT WHAT ABOUT 4200 AND JUST A FEW MECHANICAL FASTENERS. COUNTER SINK THEM DEEPER AND PUT ENOUGH 4200 IN THEM THEN COVER OVER THE HEAD AND WELL WITH 4200. DAB SOME PAINT ON THE 4200 ONCE IT HAS CURED TO PROTECT IT FROM UV.

I AM CONSIDERING 3 SCREWS FOR EACH SIDE OF THE FRONT WINDOWS WITH 4200. SIDE WINDOWS MAYBE A SCREW EVERY 24" OR SO. WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK?

 

[NANPO 41]

windows

There is a window manuf. named Wynne Enterprises in Tuscumbia Alabama that makes clamp ring windows any size. They sandwich the window opening and fasten from the inside. I used them on a previous boat and they were great. Good quality and reasonable price. I think they have a website. If not, then I have their tel# on the boat and I can post it after I go to the boat on the weekend. They can make any shape and I think the only restriction was that if you wanted rounded corners the smallest radius was 3".
Fred

 

[Mike]

Here is the link Fred mentioned, the products look good and the price seems competitive. www.wynneinc.com/index.html

I am interested in learning more about bedding with 3M 5200 or the like. Any down side risk other than future removal? For example is there a problem with window frame distortion when the hull is working, resulting in cracks or outright failure? I assume we are talking about using laminated glass in the forward windshield areas? Also anyone know the max thickness available in laminated glass? I am interested in something in the 1/2" range for a little more safety factor for offshore use in the Pacific. thanks, mike

 

[67hat34c]

bullet proof glass

wow, half inch laminated galss would be bullet proof glass. little heavy. i will ask my friend in the glass bz today when i stop by his shop today. picking up some color samples of the 1/4" glass.

 

[mikep996]

windows

Read this article re bedding windows:

www.yachtsurvey.com/WindowRepair.htm

 

[Gary]

This is facinating reading to a retired engineer- I can't resist adding my 2-cents.
My salmon boat is a 22' SeaSport (built Bellingham, Wa.) with fully encosed cabin. The windows are heavy duty extru alum clear anodise frames and are tempered glass. No exterior fasteners. They used closed-cell foam gaskets on outside. On the inside, the structural portion of the frames have the glass mounted in heavy black rubber and these frames are screwed every 4" or so.

Previous link was another excellent article by Pascoe. I agree with everything he says! There are times when a "gasket' is exactly what you want- such as window bedding. There are times when a gasket is bad- such as struts. In these cases it is necessary to retorque during the squeeze-out life of the sealant. A gasket here would allow working and degrade the strength of the bolted connection.

Mike, to partially address your concerns (and consistant with what Pascoe says I believe), the last thing you want with windows is to ask them to carry loads from the surrounding structure. If they are doing this, you need to reinforce the boat! Crashing through waves is, of course, another matter. I don't know if tempered or lammy has the edge.

Gary

 

[maqynardrupp]

window corrosion and maintainence

Keeping corosion away is easy..Don't use your boat in salt water. Our '86 36C that we bought last year has perfect window frames,(sorry I had to rub it in). I did remove the window glass and replace the fuzzies and lower plastic rubbing strips. First we vacumed tons of dirt from the tracks, centered the window glasses, used two small 2x4 blocks and a small bottle jack to seperate the upper and lower frames a little bit. Lift up and pull the glass out. We also had a small wood block screwed into the upper track to prevent the opening of the forward glass. Remove this to center the windows before the removal process with the jack. Our windows now look and operate like new.

 

[Jimmy Watts]

Window Frames

I have been reading about many of the problems many of you are having with your window frames. There is alot of good information contained within the responses. Some of the main problems with windows, especially sliders, comes from the design of the extrusion which has to be this way in order to have a slider window. One of the best things a boat owner can do to help prevent corrosion in this style extrusiion is to THROUGHLY WASH OUT THE SLIDER TRACKS with fresh water. Even go as far as putting a piece of tape over the weep hole to hold water in while flushing the slider frame. Keeping the salt washed out with this method will help to prevent corrosion in many cases.
If you are getting leakage through the bottom of a slider track, most likely it will need to be replaced. There are ways of putting a band-aid on it that might work for a while but I do not reccomend this method. If you were possible going to replace your windows and did not want the slider ones, have fixed ones manufactured.

My name is Jimmy Watts and I have been working with Steve at SAM'S Marine for many years now. I manufacture new replacement window frames for Hatteras boats. I live in New Bern, the place where many of your boats were built. If I can be of any help to any of you pretaining to window frames, please give me a call at 252-634-2214 or email at jwatts14@cox.net. I am also in the link section under American Marine Windows.