Windlass and Anchor solution

[Genevatexan]

I have a Bertram 42 FB that never had a windlass fitted. I need to add the windlass, bow roller, anchor, chain and rode. I believe wiring is in place under a cover plate on the heavy line turn-block on the nose.

Here are the controlling constraints:
- The bow has a large block installed where the bow lines run before running back to deck cleats. I will need to re-engineer this system if this block must come off. I will still need a pivot point for those lines to come back to their cleats.

- there is no bow pulpit. The cost to add is prohibitive given the cost of the remaining project. We are thinking a large, simple stainless plate with bow roller.

- the deck access portals to the rode and chain storage bay below are off-center to either side of the center line of the boat. (See picture)

- there is already 12 volt power run to the center cover plate of the large block on the nose of the boat, running back to the panel using heavy wire, maybe 4 guage.

- There is a reinforced deck location to install the winch, I believe directly in line behind the flag mount.

- we want to use a version of the QCR plow-type anchor we saw at the Ft. Lauderdale Boat Show. (looking for his card now....).

- we will retire the Fortress 23 to the aft deck and use it for a stern anchor. The big Danforth was unmanageable manually and is now in storage on the hard.

Concerns: 1) how to mount the steel plate and deck roller and deal with the current line block; 2) how to use access ports into locker below if offline with the reinforced winch base;3) How anchor snugs up if no thru hull system for anchor shank to clear. 4) recommmendation for winch size, chain and rode, for 41K lbs weight, 42 ft boat and average 50ft depth.

Can I get some feedback on how best to build this out given that adding bow pulpit makes the project go overboard? Would rather find a shorter route.

Help requested!Thanks,
Kent

 

[TopHattandTails]

Another option might be to forget about a windless and go all rope with a light weight aluminum fortress. Throw it over and tie to the bow cleats. Been doing that on a 61' Viking for years. Nice thing about that is you don't have a bow pulpit screwing up your docking process all the time. You might want to put a stainless steel deck piece on the bow (about 2"-3") from the center point back that would act like your bow tie rope chutes, to help guide the anchor line back to the cleats.

 

[jim rosenthal]

It sounds like a lot of work. What are your anchoring needs and do you need a windlass to retrieve the anchor and rode? Can you accomplish what you need with a manual system, using, as noted above, a lightweight anchor? Where do you anchor and in how much depth, what kind of bottom?

 

[REBrueckner]

I split my rope/chain locker in half via piece of 3/4" fiberglass plywood...so I had chain on one side, emergency rope rode on the other. I installed a 45 degree perhaps 4 or 5 inch diameter PVC elbow to provide the offset from the centerline anchor windlass hole to the chain side of the locker.

I forget the exact way I did it, but if you are familiar with the brackets for, of all things, toilet bases, it somehow fit the PVC elbow and enabled me to turn the mounted elbow "any which way but loose"....It wasn't that I was smart enough to plan that, but the toilet bracket was near the PVC fittings in the Home Depot where I was looking for a solution. Worked without issue for almost 11 years I used that setup.

I made a pulpit of laminated plywood epoxied together.....THAT did not work so well...the flex when breaking out an anchor caused bending and the fiberglass covering cracked admitting water...I thin I had 5 layers of 3/4" plywood....no thickness would have been enough...The stainless approach you suggest is the way to go...won't be inexpensive, but will be maintenance free.

Be sure your bracket extends far enough forward so that a swinging anchor can't dent or gouge your bow ....in strong winds, moderate chop, wakes from passing boats, anchors can get swinging more that I would have thought.

 

[Pascal]

Unless you almost never anchor i cant imagine a boat over 30' without a windlass as you will be unable to retrieve anchor alone when the wind picks up and you have to pull the boat by hand to the anchor!

Yes it s a lot of work but worth it I prefer a pulpit to just a roller nine never has the pulpit interfer with docking either.

A pulpit needs to be stiff, i wouldnt use ply but Divinycel with heavy glass on both side. Then reinforce it with either an integral SS chute which will stiffent the pulpit AND a SS tube at an angle attached to a rail fitting on the hull

Then a good backing plate under the deck and you re good to go

 

[Bill Allen]

On the way back from the keys after I "lost" my pulpit which meant no windlass I tried using my fortress. Lifting it and the small amount of chain by hand was alright. Then once we got into a muddy bottom it was well not alright. With a good clump of mud on it it was a major chore lifting it, even if you left it in the water and moved the boat. It's a staright up lift at that point and very heavy. First job when I returned was replacing the pulpit. I would never even consider not having my windlass and pulpit on a cruising boat. I have lifted my super max and all chain rode by hand but not by choice. Put a pulpit on it's only another few feet and when it's time to leave pushing that button and watching the anchor come in is priceless. Bill

 

[Genevatexan]

Thanks for responses. Here are some replies- a) we are already currently using a lightweight fortress and having trouble wrangling. It is not gripping the bottom we have, it can not be easily handled, even with the admiral at the wheel, we struggle to get it up and down in a coordinated way. b) yes, with a giant ball of clay and chain it gets awkward, especially getting it under the railing. c) there are two chain holes into the locker below, but both are offset from the center line so we may have to make a new chain pipe right under center line winch when installed. d) biggest problem is solutioning bow roller and SS extension without the whole bow pulpit cost. Need a solid SS solution with enough reach.
Questions: 1) Recommendations on windlass? Vertical or horizontal and how big for this application? Saw a Lewmar Pro Fish 1000 Free fall that I liked but specs vary, for up to 38, and sometimes up to 45 ft. We are heavy at over 41K lbs. 2) is there any way to mount winch to use offset chain locker holes, or must we cut a new one?
K

 

[Bill Allen]

I built my new pulpit out of teak which is what my old one was. After building it somone sugested I should call Tom Slane and see what he has, might be your solution as well. I have an all chain rode on my primary anchor (super max) which is one size above what the chart sugested. I like it except for one time off the keys it's never not stuck and held. I took off and still have a 5/8 line Good vertical windlass, but it's all rope and I wanted chain, Know anyone looking for one I'll let it go cheap. I have an older ideal windlass with 5/16 chain I had ideal go through it before I put it on and I've been quite happy with it (it's horizontal). It's usally my wife and I on the boat so neither one of us, nor my cruising buddy Robin is interested in busting our tail dragging it up. It's not cheap getting a decent set up working and operating properly, but to me it's money well spent. Bill

 

[spartonboat1]

Dual Comment, re: Windlass with line/anchor running out though an anchor chute. See Sam's Marine HOF Site 'Parts' area, where some Hatt grade chutes are listed. I find they are almost impossible to source in a heavy grade in the after market.

1) Windlass, Pulpit and Chute: The anchor chute should not be presenting a 'load' to the pulpit past the bow of the boat. The Chute may be attached to the pulpit aft of the bow, but without a load on the pulpit out beyond the bow. The pulpit will not or to a lesser extent, be subject to breakage, due to the anchor line/chain load; the anchor chute should bear all that load. Some (one?) Hatt Owners have reported pulpit breakage, due to loading of the pulpit, provided the pulpit is loaded out past the bow, while the anchor is deployed.

2) Windlass, Chute, No Pulpit: Some Hatt's do not have a pulpit but only an anchor chute. The chute obviously is bolted/attached directly to the bow, and the line/anchor chain run from the Windlass to and through the Anchor Chute. The Chute loading is directly to the mount points (from 4 to 8 bolts) at the bow.

My observations...much research from observation at docks, discussions with owners.