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What light fixtures are you using when updating with new headliner?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Angela
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Angela

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Jul 8, 2005
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
58' MOTOR YACHT-Series I (1977 - 1980)
I am beginning to tackle the job of replacing the headliner. I intend to use removable panels that are covered in a thin foam-backed vinyl. While I’m in there, I want to start replacing the overhead lighting fixtures, and I’d like to go with recessed dimmable LED lights. There isn’t a lot of room (though I don’t know how much precisely because I haven’t started pulling it all down yet; perhaps Pascal can weigh in) between backside of the headliner and ceiling structure.

For those of you who have already updated your lighting like this, what lighting fixtures are you using, what diameter are they, and how far apart are they spaced to give you plenty of lighting in a large room such as the salon and master stateroom?

I am first going to practice my headliner skills on the crew head, but the pilothouse is next and that is where I will tackle the first replacement of the old square Hatteras ceiling fixtures. Thanks for your input.
 
Good afternoon . I just finished retro-fitting new LED lights in the salon of my 52C . My headliner was fairly new and I didn't want to fool with it so I searched for some lights that I could use to replace the original incandescents . I happened upon a company called AspectLED and they make their lights in many designs that include 12 volt , 24 volt and 120volt , all that look exactly the same , are dimmable and very reasonably priced. You can view them here at this link :http://aspectled.com/collections/led-recessed-ceiling-lights/modern-series-square-rectangular
They are only about 1 3/4" high and so fit into many applications . Very nicely made and the company was a pleasure to deal with . They are also direction and can be aimed to light wall art , tables etc .
 
I'd highly recommend calling these folks and discussing your needs. They know these boats and quality is high to go along with the service. I used their bulbs to replace some halogens I had.
I have seen a few boats with Marinebeam fixtures and they look great.
https://store.marinebeam.com/led-cabin-lights/?sort=featured&page=2

Our fixtures were about 3" with a about a 2" hole. The MSR had the kind that adjustably tilt which was kind of nice.

As for layout, on our 56my we found 6 in the salon (which is a little bigger than a 58 galley up) and two above the helm worked great, IMO. In the MSR 4 did the job fine, plus the reading lamps and a separately switched light over the door.
 
I ve upgraded the saloon galley and aft deck on charmer using Lumitec Mirage series. I really like them. That s also what I put on Steve s Marquis, remember ? A little pricey but they only use two wires and ramp up when you turn them off. You just flick off/on at the intensity you need. No controller no extra wire

In the skylounge I kept the bigger (4" fixtures) and used LED bulbs with standard bi pin G4 from Imtra


The absolutely critical thing is to get warm white LEDs. Otherwise it will look like the old fluo bulbs you used to have under the galley cabinet :). Some BTW come in warm white / red which is great for pilot house
 
Used Imtra Sigma in the salon, only light I could find that was big and also bright enough. work great, dim great, expensive. Using Blue Seas dimmer.
Down below we have some older Imtras in the hall and heads that I got on Imtra close out. Bedrooms are next, have some Quick Kai lights to install when I get around to it this summer. My advise is to make sure they're bright enough, produce the correct "white" that you prefer, and dim well without flicker.
 
I will eventually be doing the same project. How do you make the panels? What material? How do you hold them up?
 
I will eventually be doing the same project. How do you make the panels? What material? How do you hold them up?

I am using a 3/8" plywood that is, or resembles, luan plywood. It is very flexible and lightweight. It needs to be flexible to adapt to the curvature of the ceiling. I am coating the side that goes against the ceiling with a penetrating epoxy (epoxy thinned with xylene) in area where there could possibly be some water intrusion from above, such as under the fly bridge or under areas where there is an air conditioner above. I've had the AC pan overflow before and drip down to whatever is below. I want that water to roll off and show me there is a problem if and when it happens, rather than warping my panel.

I am wrapping these panels in a foam-backed vinyl headliner material. I am securing the panels to the ceiling, using the existing framing to which the original headliner was stapled, with a 2" wide Velcro which is probably too wide and I'll likely cut that in half. I have to staple the Velcro to all surfaces, not just rely upon the adhesive backing.

My panels are the same width as was the original headliner pieces so I can use the same framing members. I put the Velcro on the existing framing members. Where there is a seam, I will put a piece of teak batton to cover the seam, and to screw the panels, through the batton strip, to the ceiling for an even better hold....plus, that teak batton will give me that classic yacht look. I am currently working on my first piece this weekend. I'll post photos, assuming I don't screw this up. I chose the crew head to be my Guinea pig so I can make my mistakes there where few will see them.

This is my first attempt at headliner, so bear with me. :D. I WILL get it right if not the first time around.
 
I installed Imtra "Hatters" lights. I had very limited height and they fit well. I did not use dimmers. I installed switches for several zones instead.
 
Photos, please, and if the quality of your previous work is any predictor, they will look terrific.
 
This worked for me:

Lithonia Lighting FMML 7 840 WL 7-Inch 4000K LED Small Versi Round Wet Location Flush Mount, White
by Lithonia Lighting
4.6 out of 5 stars 17 customer reviews

From Amazon
 
Hey Ang. In a previous boat I had it also had the foam backed vinyl for headliner material. I upgraded the sound system and had to run some new wires. I couldn't figure out how the ceiling panels were attached, because there were no battens and the seams for the panels just butted together. I contacted the mfg and told me it was a "stretch and screw" method. The vinyl was glued, wrapped around, and perimeter stapled to the hard board substrate. Where it was to be screwed to dead wood glassed into the ceiling, they left a gap in the perimeter staples. Then they stretched the vinyl material down and out enough to put a screw directly through the hard board, then tucked the vinyl back up and over, covering the screw head. The vinyl takes its original shape back pretty quick. It's a neat install method.
 
That's a great idea ! I ve used Velcro when I redid the saloon a few months ago but it s not always tight enough.

I m going to try Velcro plus hidden screws for the expanded master feeling which I m about to do
 
I replaced halogen headliner lights in my 50c with leds using these products:

LEDs: 12V 2.8" LED Recessed Ceiling Down Light RV Boat Indoor Cabin Kitchen Lamp WW From ebay seller "dollarled" About $6 each. They fit in the old cutouts without any mods or screws. Though they have plastic trim, they look great.

And used these led power supplies: Meanwell pcd25 1400 1.4A dimmer supply. $17 each from "onlinecomponents." Each supply is good for 25 watts. I have five lights each on two supplies at 3.5 watts per light.

And these dimmers(on order): Leviton sureslide 6633-p. I have non-approved Dimmers installed now and the lights blink at high and low brightness settings. Ordered the correct dimmers from Amazon. Onlinecomponents tells me they will not cause the LEDs to blink. Should have the new dimmers installed next weekend.
 

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