Sink Water Lines

[Photolomy]

What size are the copper lines connecting the sink? I am not at the boat and want to pick up a couple of valves to install on the way.

 

[MadHatter53]

Mine were 3/8.

 

[metama]

All my lines had 1/2 flare connections.
Possible the hardest thing to work with today.

The line is flex copper not pipe.

Little plumbing reminder:

You can't get a 1/2 female connector/adaptor. You may require:1/2 Female to 1/2 female adapter. With my plumbing.... a number of....

1/2 to 1/2 female
1/2 Male flare to Pipe
1/2 Pipe fitting, to 3/8 compression adapter
value / faucet

Sure- Pipe fitting thread is the same as Flair, but it will trap water and freeze over winter!!

If I had to do it again-
Flex line with manifolds to shut down each run!!!!
Would have cost the same.

 

[MadHatter53]

Phil I still have a bunch of my old flared connectors, let me know if you need anything.

 

[oscarvan]

If I had to do it again-
Flex line with manifolds to shut down each run!!!!
Would have cost the same.

Something my moho manufacturer (Forest River) did very right. Should I have need to start replacing water systems, this philosophy would definitely come into play, probably with a brass manifold though.

 

[Photolomy]

All my lines had 1/2 flare connections.
Possible the hardest thing to work with today.

The line is flex copper not pipe.

Little plumbing reminder:

You can't get a 1/2 female connector/adaptor. You may require:1/2 Female to 1/2 female adapter. With my plumbing.... a number of....

1/2 to 1/2 female
1/2 Male flare to Pipe
1/2 Pipe fitting, to 3/8 compression adapter
value / faucet

Sure- Pipe fitting thread is the same as Flair, but it will trap water and freeze over winter!!

If I had to do it again-
Flex line with manifolds to shut down each run!!!!
Would have cost the same.

Just to make sure I understand. The copper is too soft for a compression fitting? It must be a flare fitting? Also, how bad is the risk for threaded connectors? I don't see a lot of that when searching. Also, my boat is in Florida, but nonetheless, I don't want to set up some future northern owner with issues.

I would like to use flare to thread, then the shut off valve, then a threaded connector to the faucet.

 

[metama]

I re-did all the fittings last year. Only did one set this year!
So- Im leaving out the exact details that currently escape my memory.

Flex copper tube is a different OD then standard coper pipe.
It's like the bendable copper for a fridge, only larger.

So it limits your options with fitting. You can't just grab a snake bite shut off.

You are going to have one of 2 things to connect to.
A custom made 1/2 to 1/2 flare. (Two female flair fittings on a 2 inch section of copper tube).
Or.
A male 1/2 flair tee.

If you have a 1/2 flair male tee, keep yourself from just putting a non flair fitting on it. Sure you can put a normal Male pipe adapter on it.... but the flair will create stress and let water in around it.
I let someone else fix one sink. Guess what sink I re-did this spring!

And... they don't make a Flair to compression adapter of any kind. So your going Flair to pipe and pipe to compression.

Pipe and Flair have the same thread angle. Compression have a different thread angle.

You can get a 1/2 to 1/2 female pre-made fitting. So you don't need a flair tool to make them. Might not be in your hardware store but amazon has them.

 

[metama]

"I would like to use flare to thread, then the shut off valve, then a threaded connector to the faucet."

Flare to Flare (if you don't have it all ready)
Flare to Pipe
Pipe to compression (drop from 1/2 to mostly likely 3/8 based on your faucet)
Compression shut off (If you add a shutoff)
Compression to Faucet

Assuming you have room for a shutoff without a 90.

I believe the standard for faucets and shutoffs are compression.
And yes, you are trashing the compression part of the fitting. Faucets are female compression. ​

 

[whoover]

I think you will be able to find a 3/8" flare to 3/8" compression fitting that you can attach a braided faucet connection hose onto. You can get these braided lines with attached shutoffs. The old flare nut should thread onto the new fitting even though it looks different, the thread has not changed.

Walt Hoover

 

[Oldlaxer1]

I made connections to both the master and guest head sinks using sharkbites and pex. Here is the thread showing what I did. I'm 99% sure the galley sink is the same copper tube.



https://www.samsmarine.com/forums/showthread.php?33268-Fresh-water-leak-solved

 

[metama]

Yep, per your thread use use the step down. Looked good!
But you just can't use the all in one shark bit with value.

 

[Pascal]

I ve redone all my plumbing with new copper and SharkByte including a manifold with valves above the water pumps so I can quickly isolate one section Of the boat if need be. For a while I still had some of the old plumbing and used SharkByte to connect the original 3/8 copper to the new 1/2 copper.

Btw watch out for those original grey ribbed hoses, they get very brittle with age.

 

[Photolomy]

What kind of caulk / sealant is used to seal where the pipe goes through a hole? Also, is putting a larger water filter near the intake (in the STBD ER) and doing away with the two individual filters in the galley and wet bar a bad idea?

 

[metama]

I just ran water tests last week.
PPM and a bunch of metal/PH/stuff.

Dockside was 230ish
Ran through 2 new filters (5 and 1).
And 160 with water running 2 mins. 220 right off the bat in the Galley, 180 in the guest head.
Copper numbers are low on the test.

I am updating the bar and kitchen filter (But keep filters).
And put in a 2 filter at the pump.

Im adding a UV at the pump as well. A number of people here have them.

 

[Oldlaxer1]

Btw watch out for those original grey ribbed hoses, they get very brittle with age.

Thanks for the head's up.