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Securing New Float Switch in Bilge

Either product will suit your need. I personally used 4200 with no issue. the primary difference is one is a permanent bond the other you can remove.
 
Thanks to everyone for all the input!

As someone who is new to boating, I have a lot to learn about every aspect.

Nick
 
Nick, what ever you decide send photos of what you did.
 
Thanks to everyone for all the input!

As someone who is new to boating, I have a lot to learn about every aspect.

Nick

Oak is for furniture. Not for mounting pumps in water.

There are many better choices. I'd use a 1/2 or 1/4 inch PVC board. With it's the foam core it's easy to cut and shape and when roughed up will adhere with 4000/4200/5200.


For permanent installations it can be epoxied in but dont use polyester as it will separate.
 
I don’t doubt anything said re Rule switches. I’ve got 7 onboard including high usage shower sumps. I’ve had zero issues in the four years I’ve owned Aslan. But I’ve also worked to stop the leaks which might account for my lack of experience with problems.
 
I use Ultra switches as well. The first one I installed in my Hatteras is over twenty years old- it still works just fine. I have three or four of them. They are also made by a small manufacturer in the USA who owns the design. Which West Marine attempted to steal a few years ago, another reason I don't shop with them. So far, I have never had an Ultra switch fail.

I agree about which adhesive to use- 4200 should be fine. the prep of the mating surfaces is more important than anything else. I think all my switches are screw mounted using the sleeve that Ultra supplies, if I am not mistaken.

Make sure you get the right voltage switch. They are not interchangeable; he makes them in different voltage ratings.

So that's where all my hair went.... I wondered. LOL
 
i too grew weary of the rule switches failing/sticking and went with ultra after reading about them here.
literally standing on my head to change the center pump switch drove me to find something reliable.
simple design and it works.
 
I use Ultra switches as well. The first one I installed in my Hatteras is over twenty years old- it still works just fine. I have three or four of them. They are also made by a small manufacturer in the USA who owns the design. Which West Marine attempted to steal a few years ago, another reason I don't shop with them. So far, I have never had an Ultra switch fail. I agree about which adhesive to use- 4200 should be fine. the prep of the mating surfaces is more important than anything else. I think all my switches are screw mounted using the sleeve that Ultra supplies, if I am not mistaken. Make sure you get the right voltage switch. They are not interchangeable; he makes them in different voltage ratings. So that's where all my hair went.... I wondered. LOL
Down in Daytona for the race and stopped in West in Jax for some paint. Hoped to save freight and do a price match. Bought two quarts of Perfection marked $109.99 each for $64.11 each. I appreciate West warehousing it for me.
 
As a result of the feedback I received in this thread, I gave up trying to figure out a lazy/cheap way to install the Rule float switch I had on hand.

I went ahead and bought a Ultra Pumpswitch Junior. I liked the fact that it attaches to the existing bilge pump using a hose clamp. That made a secure mounting much simpler in a location that was awkward to access below the master bed. Note that the hose clamp is supplied by the customer, it does not come with the pump.

I am including a few photos of the unit and the installation.

Thanks for the input!

Nick
 

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Nice look Nick.
 
For those of you who are thinking the Ultra switch, you might want to check www.wemausa.com
These are the guys I used for gauges and senders for water and fuel levels. They have a bilge switch very similar to the Ultra, at 1/3 of the price. I am using them with no problems.

WEMA switch.webp
 

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