Securing New Float Switch in Bilge

[Nick in Manitou]

(I am new at this.)

Need to figure out how to secure a new float switch in the bilge.

Old switch died and when I went to remove it, the bracket came out with the switch.

Now I need to find a way to secure the new switch so that it stays where it should be instead of floating around in what it is supposed to be sensing.

The switch I have in the system is a new Rule Super Switch. (I have now seen here on the forum that there are folks who no longer trust these switches!)

I have tried to attach the switch to the Rule 2000 pump with the little bracket that came with a new Rule 2000 pump I installed in another location but couldn't manage to get the bracket to clip to the (already installed) pump in the bilge.

As there is really no place for the switch to wander off to, I am thinking that if I could attach it to something heavy enough to keep the switch sitting right side up on the floor of the bilge, that would be all I need.

Any suggestions for methods or materials? I believe the bracket for the switch I removed had been poorly glued to the floor of the bilge. Is there something I could use to attach the bracket to the hull even though there is some residual water and whatever covering that area?

Thanks,
Nick
(1984 53' Extended Deckhouse)

 

[Oldlaxer1]

Can you use an underwater curing epoxy to mount a wood or starboard block and then screw the switch to that?

 

[Pascal]

Couple of years ago I replaced all my bilge pump, switches, wiring etc and mounted everything on L shape brackets made with starboard which can be screwed to a stringer or bulkhead

I ve also seen in done with welded alum or SS brackets

 

[Nick in Manitou]

Oldlaxer1,

I have never used an underwater-curing epoxy. But from what I have read, I am under the impression that the area of the bilge to which I would attach anything would have to be clean and dry...and I don't think I can make that happen.

I am not familiar with StarBoard, but it seems from an article I read that it would float, so - like wood - I would have to secure that as well.

Perhaps I could use a piece of concrete tile backer board and secure the bracket to that. It should give the switch a stable base that wouldn't float.

 

[Nick in Manitou]

Pascal,

Thanks for the photo. It makes the concept very clear.

I may resort to that if I can't come up with a simpler solution.

This is for the aft bilge pump which is under the master bed and partly under the shower sump. Not easy to get to.

 

[SEVEN]

Thanks for sharing the photo of the mounting bracket that you made. I would be concerned that your bilge pump would be completely submerged by the time your float switch was activated. It makes more sense to me to mount them side-by-side. Thoughts?

 

[Pascal]

The switch and pump need to be secured so it doesn’t move around. All it takes a little shift fornswitch to hang or be blocked by a hose or hull. Especially in the back of the 53 where you have the hose connection the water tanks

Any switch I replace in the future will be an ultra switch which besides reliability is simply attached to the rule pump worth considering in your case

 

[Toolsntoys]

I really like the method of using aluminum or stainless steel brackets. My cruisers is set up that way.

 

[Nick in Manitou]

Pascal,

After doing some more research on float switches, I was just coming back to this thread to comment that I will probably be going with an Ultra switch after reading about how many folks have had problems with Rule and other switches.

Besides the increased dependability, I was taken by the sensible strap mount that will easily attach it to the existing pump already in place (and secured).

My thanks to all for their comments!

Nick

 

[rustybucket]

After replacing every float switch in my boat.... twice, and burning up a couple of VERY expensive bilge pumps due to float switches sticking.... I had enough and switched them all over to ultra switch float switches. I put the seniors everywhere I had an alarm circuit and juniors where no alarm circuits existed. They've only been in a few months but I LOVE them so far. Better mousetrap hands down, were a breeze to install, and will be a breeze to service. I wish I had back all the hours, blood, sweat and cuss words I have spent on those stupid rule and attwood float switches. Seriously, my dog has toys that are higher quality than those float switches whose role is to keep my boat from sinking.

The Ultra's are expensive, think it cost me about $900 to do all bilge pumps and shower sump (6 on my boat), but if it keeps me out of the bilge constantly screwing with chinsy float switches I no longer trust at all, then it was money well spent.

 

[oscarvan]

Ya...don't skimp on rule #2 (Keep the water out of the boat).

 

[cenger]

I screwed the float to a piece of oak sealed with Smith's Clear Penetrating Epoxy Seals (CPES) to prevent rot. I secured the oak to the bilge in a bed of 3M4200 which will cure underwater. You can use 3M5200 also but 5200 is permanent and will not come back off.

 

[Nick in Manitou]

RustyBucket,

My plan at this point is to eventually replace all the sump and bilge switches with more reliable units as the existing units die or when I happen to be working in the area.

We have only been boat owners/live aboards for 5 weeks and have had one bilge pump failure and one float switch failure already. That doesn't give one much of a feeling of confidence in the systems designed to keep the boat on the top of the water!

Nick

 

[Nick in Manitou]

Cenger,

At this point I have an Ultra switch on order, so I won't need to pursue a way to secure the Rule switch as I originally thought I was going to do...BUT, I have a question...

Does the 3M4200 actually allow you to attach the oak block to the hull even if the area has water in it? Can you just reach down into the water and secure the block by sticking it against the bottom of the bilge with the 3M4200 on it and let it cure? If so, it seems that it could be a really handy process for me to remember!

Thanks,
Nick

 

[rustybucket]

Cenger,

Does the 3M4200 actually allow you to attach the oak block to the hull even if the area has water in it? Can you just reach down into the water and secure the block by sticking it against the bottom of the bilge with the 3M4200 on it and let it cure? If so, it seems that it could be a really handy process for me to remember!

The answer is possibly, but not very likely.

In order for the 4200 to adhere reliably to any surface that surface must be clean. It can be wet, but it must be free of any oils, greases, waxes, dirt, debris....etc.

If your bilge were thoroughly cleaned and any wax/grease/oil, flakey paint...etc were removed and you only had clear clean water remaining, then yes, it could adhere reliably.

In the common bilge, which has been coated with oil, diesel, grease, anti-sieze...etc throughout the years......, no way it adheres for any reliable amount of time.

 

[Nick in Manitou]

Too bad! I was hoping it was a magical formula that would ignore the yuck that inevitably coats bilges and stick to the intended surface.

 

[BOATER BOB]

Get a wet vac and some Dawn dish soap and clean your bilge rinse well and then you have option of mounting with 5200 or epoxy.
Bob

 

[cenger]

3M5200 is good stuff. Give the bilge a scrub with soap and water, use an oil absorbent pad to get as much of the oil out of the water as you can and you will be fine. 5200 is designed to cure in wet conditions and will form an extremely strong bond.

 

[oscarvan]

3M5200 is good stuff.

VERY good stuff. My rule is to never use it unless I never plan to remove whatever I glue down with it. For this app I think 4200 will suffice. Yes, shop vac and get it clean and dry. Which is what your bilge should be anyways.

The number one reason for bilge pump failure is crud, and believe it or not human hair is on the top of the list. The average human loses 50-100 strands a day!!! Now, I don't have that many to lose, but in the past I have had three humans on board with me with a combined hair length of 80".... times 50-100. That's an anchor line a week I tell you. So, ships rules were that brushing was to be done ON DECK on the most leeward corner of the boat.....but I digress.....

So, keep your bilge clean, keep the crud out of the pumps and keep the water out of the boat.

 

[rustybucket]

VERY good stuff. My rule is to never use it unless I never plan to remove whatever I glue down with it.

5200 gets SOOOOOOOOO overused. On my old center console I swear they used it on EVERYTHING!!! Made me cuss even what should have been the most simple of tasks.

In the past 10 years you could probably count on one hand the number of times I felt 5200 was the correct solution. 99.99% of the time 4000, 4000UV or 4200 are the correct solutions.