Painting the Aluminum Rub Rail

[lumina]

Hi all.

I've decided to revitalize the look of my rub rails. They don't look all that bad, but they have marks and discoloration where things rubbed over time, a couple of scratches, scupper wear, and a milky white look in some spots.

My guys are telling me I'm crazy that it looks fine but I'm one of those guys who sees an imperfection and sees it every day and it makes me crazy.

I had originally thought I'd replace them but Sam's quoted me a price of $700 a 20' length and then I'd have to find someone with the equipment and ability to bend and form them as needed.

A few folks I know tried acids and sanding and clear coatings but it just doesn't look right and it didn't stand up.

I found, on the net, a process that contains sanding, alcohol, special primer and special paint. They (and there customer feedback) says it looks grerat and will stand up.

Thought I might try it BUT before I do I'd like to get your opinions.

 

[Canuck Dennis]

Here is the process you have to follow to do it right, preferably in vacuum bag.

Sand to the point where ALL imperfections are gone, treat with Alumaprep, per instructions, treat with alodine #1201 per instructions, prime and paint.

Alternative due to area subject to damage.....sand smooth, etch with alodine 1201, prime and paint with Brightsides one part polyeurathene.

 

[MikeP]

The purpose of a rubrail is to bang/slide/rub, and otherwise impact against pilings, docks, whatever.

Painting a rubrail will ensure it looks even worse unless you take huge pains to ensure that the rubrail never does what it is intended to do. Replace it with SS or leave it alone is my recommendation.

 

[captddis]

Don't paint the extruded aluminum!! If it looks reasonably good live with it. No matter what you do it will start to blister just like the painted window frames.

I learned the hard way when I insisted that the yard paint my extruded sheer guard on my Bertram. They did everything by the Awlgrip book and it blistered in one month.
If the part does not have corrosion, you may have a chance of success. Myself I would put the money toward a vinyl extrusion and ditch the aluminum.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Are yours the aluminum rails that bolt on or are you refering to rub strakes? Personally, I would remove them and replace with rails made by Tom Slane.
BTW.... thats where you know who gets them from. Otherwise to paint them in situ, you are asking for a yearly maintenance issue. Especially with SS or bronze fasteners. They will corrode from behind.
The alternative? Get a scotchbrite wheel for your drill, mask off the paint and give them a "brushed" finish, or polish them down to a mirror. Your call. Coat them with awlclear.
Even on my aluminum boat with the rails welded on, theres an affected area from welding thats hard to hold paint, and thats in fresh water. ws

 

[lumina]

Hi All,

This is the best picture I could come up with off the cuff.

The aluminum rub rail is appx 2" in hight and depth. It runs around the entire hull and also has a strip down the center of the hull. There are enormous screws every 6 inches.

If I can rejuvinate it through buffing and acids I'm for it.

My research to date has all pointed toward the sand, prime, paint method.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Are we talking the same stuff here?
1. Are the rubstakes at the GUN'L 1" stainless steel or aluminum
2. Are the 2X2 rails below the portlites extruded aluminum, or wood capped with SS?
3. Are the rails at the boot stripe wood, aluminum or glass?
4. Are the lower strakes al or SS?
5. Is the aluminum stuff silver or already painted?
6. MIND the termanology here!

If the stuff is al, and painted, you are stuck with that, or replace it with new. If its silver, I would hazard a guess that its anodized. To polish it uniformly, its all gotta be polished or will look like hell in 6 months.

To remove them, I would drill the screw heads off and pound the shanks inside the boat. Let them fall where they may. Install new rails by drilling and tapping for the screws and bed solid with 5200 and paint. For this, you will hafta expect a major paint repair as well, or go slightly larger in size to cover the chipped edges that WILL happen. Thats what I did.

To just polish the al stuff... mask of the painted areas and get handy with a dremel tool, or get GOOD with a pad on a 4 inch grinder. Personally, I would take off the strakes, repair and paint the rails (liberally) and re-install the strakes with a liberal (!) dose of 4000 UV to completely seal the joint, as well as bed 100 per cent of the strakes and screws to help seal the units.

AFAIAC... aluminum with screws doesnt belong on a glass boat especially near the sargossa sea. Howz them apples? ws

 

[SKYCHENEY]

I have never seen aluminum rub rails on a Hatteras. I thought they were all stainless steel.

 

[captddis]

Around 73 to74 ish they used an aluminum extrusion against the hull with a ss rubrail over the aluminum. Must have got the idea from Bertram.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Around 73 to74 ish they used an aluminum extrusion against the hull with a ss rubrail over the aluminum. Must have got the idea from Bertram.

And steel and aluminum go so well together. In fact, I just finished replacing the aluminum door hinges on my 08 Jeep Wrangler. I'm still wondering what engineer thought that would be a GOOD idea.

 

[J's Dream]

I have aluminum rails on my boat. They're the same as what's being discussed...and the PO decided to paint them. That really sucks, because they WERE anodized before...and now after he sanded and painted them, its a constant battle to keep the paint on there, and looking good.

If you like your boat looking good after even a REALLY good docking but happen to bump a piling, don't paint them...cause it WILL come off.

Replacing the rubrail is a huge undertaking. The fasteners are not screws, but 1/4 X 20 bolts with nuts that are in place using 5200. I have decided to keep painting the rails, which always look like crap anyways.

Jason

 

[lumina]

1. Are the rubstakes at the GUN'L 1" stainless steel or aluminum

2"x2" Aluminum

2. Are the 2X2 rails below the portlites extruded aluminum, or wood capped with SS?

2"x2" Aluminum

3. Are the rails at the boot stripe wood, aluminum or glass?

wood with a strip of stainless down the center

4. Are the lower strakes al or SS?

not sure where the lower strakes are.

5. Is the aluminum stuff silver or already painted?

Aluminum, not painted but seemes to have a factory clear coat

6. MIND the termanology here!

I'm not 100% sure I understand the terminology but I think I do.


AFAIAC... aluminum with screws doesnt belong on a glass boat especially near the sargossa sea. Howz them apples? ws

This is all factory installed.

 

[lumina]

WS,

I answered your questions to the best of my ability and have provided another picture that shows the rub rail.

Any further thoughts?

Anyone seeing this for the first time have anything to add.

 

[rsmith]

Ive looked at these rails since the first 45 came out. The anodising gets that whitish look and pits. If you paint it sooner or later you get that bubbled up filiform corrosion. There is no good answer other than replace it with PVC rail.My boat has a Wood rail in '68-69 they put the aluminum rail on the 50 most Ive seen have places that are crushed. Ive had rot problems with the wood rail but at least it can be repaired.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Back in the day, as a young draftsman, my boss bitched about "Line Quality and lettering", can you wonder why???

Starting at the top is the toe rail
A. Is the gun'l cast in fiberglass and capped with a stainless rub strake

B. Is an aluminum extrusion bolted on and capped in stainless (?) or just all aluminum?

C. Is a wood rail bolted on and capped with stainless

D Is a wood spray or lift rail in wood bolted on.

So now, I am guessing your aluminum rail is the one just below the portlites, correct? If it werent anodized, it would look like hell. I really doubt there is much you can do to restore it to look like new, other than polish it in place, paint it, or pull it off and replace with a Slane rail in 'glass. Just my opinion.

Slane rails going on...

I do have some galley doors, regular teak, some teak plywood with your pattern, but NO STINKIN' VENEER! Sorry ws

 

[lumina]

WS,

I liked the drawing, I understood it and learned a lot. I will attempt to get the answers to your questions.

When you have time, no rush, could you send me a photo of the cabinets and the plywood.

THanks in advance

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Gene... YOU hafta tell ME what you need! I'll go through it as we are moving this week and will take the time and effort out of our schedule to help you out! ws

 

[q240z]

I'm curious as to why you Hatteras boys need three rub rails? lol

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Just for effect! Even the Roamers (most) and Connies have the one below the portlites just to give the look of an illusion of longitudinal exageration. Genes happens to have a SS rubstrake on it as well (well maybe its polished aluminum en total). Thats the part Im trying to figure out.
With the flare of the bow and the tumblehome to the deadrise, the only point of contact with all three will be somewheres amidships... maybe. ws

 

[Avenger]

There's extras in case somebody imagines that one disappeared.