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Painting Bronze

  • Thread starter Thread starter Angela
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Angela

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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
58' MOTOR YACHT-Series I (1977 - 1980)
The end plates that attach to my expansion tank are bronze. Rather than just scraping off the loose paint and painting over, it I was anal enough to strip all of the paint off of those parts so that I'd have a smooth finish when I'm done with this rather than evidence of having painted over old, chipped paint. What was on there was pretty thick, and I learned that the engines were originally that dark green like you see on some old DDs.

So....with raw bronze now ready to be painted, do I have to apply that etching stuff to it like I did the raw aluminum window frames, or will a lacquer thinner be enough to etch it to hold paint?

Also, it is better to paint reassemble the whole thing, and then paint, including the bolts, or paint the parts first and then assemble it?

Thanks guys!
 
Hi Ang, would it make any sense to polish the parts and coat them with clear?
 
Hi Ang, would it make any sense to polish the parts and coat them with clear?

No, they didn't clean up THAT pretty. :) They're just smooth now without the visible layers of years worth of paint.. And there are different kinds of metal making up the whole cooling system, so I think it will look best if everything is white instead of a bunch of different colors of metal.
 
No, they didn't clean up THAT pretty. :) They're just smooth now without the visible layers of years worth of paint.. And there are different kinds of metal making up the whole cooling system, so I think it will look best if everything is white instead of a bunch of different colors of metal.
Its not forever since you should do it every 5 years or more so don't get too anal about it. zink chromate is a good non ferrous metal primer. I used the rustoleum hardhat series industrial spraypaint and their primer. read the app instructions the rustoleum had to be recoated within I think 30 min or you had to wait 24 hrs.
 
If it's not to much trouble have the parts sandblasted then paint like RS said. Nothing seems to get paint to hold better than a sand blasted surface.ipe the parts down with thinner or acetone, to make sure no oil is on the surface, including oil from your hands.
 
If it's not to much trouble have the parts sandblasted then paint like RS said. Nothing seems to get paint to hold better than a sand blasted surface.ipe the parts down with thinner or acetone, to make sure no oil is on the surface, including oil from your hands.

Thinner and acetone can leave residue on the parts. Make sure the thinner is compatible with the paint or you can have a problem. Use Denatured alcohol as the final cleaner after sandblasting and wear gloves to keep the oils on you hands off the metal.
 
I agree with glassbeading them, and then paint with the most durable paint you can find. Which would be POR-15, if you can find it in white. They do make an engine paint which comes in white. Be careful and wear gloves- POR-15 doesn't come off ANYTHING you put it on, including skin. If you get it on your hands, it take three weeks to wear off. It is incredibly tough and will last for years on an engine. POR-15 also makes an etching primer called Metal-Ready which works very well to prep the surface for their paints.
 
For painting bare metal I always use self etching primer, and cover the primer in Imron. the results have always been good.

The prep is the hard part, sand/ bead blasting or caustic soda, Caustic soda not for aluminum, are good paths to a sucessfull job.

JM
 
Oh fricking please. just clean it with brake cleaner, spray paint it and get on with your life. It aint government work!!!!!!!

PS Imron SUCKS on metal parts you end up with filiform corosion
 
Frenchy would get them powder coated on your dime... lemme see now, 3 weeks later, on one engine, they could be flown into the Bahamas...Paint them with rustoleo Ange. The judges will never see them! ws

nmb5t3.jpg

polished brass with clearcoat

1o4z9z.jpg

powder coated

mhg1l5.jpg

vinyl spray paint

egqnbk.jpg

perfections brushed on

This should have been done a week ago... ;-))
 
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I am going using Rustoleum oil enamel. I just wanted to make sure about the prep on BRONZE. I knew how to do aluminum and other metals. I would have hated to have gone to all the trouble just to have the paint peel off the bronze because I didn’t prep it right.
 
I am going using Rustoleum oil enamel. I just wanted to make sure about the prep on BRONZE. I knew how to do aluminum and other metals. I would have hated to have gone to all the trouble just to have the paint peel off the bronze because I didn’t prep it right.


I use Automotive Brake Cleaner to clean small parts like these for painting. Its cheap you can get it in the auto supply and its in a spray can for ease of use. I usually hang the parts using wire coat hangars so I can paint all areas without the paint sticking to what ever surface you lay them on. Tape off any areas where u dont want paint. I paint the flange mating surfaces to slo the corrosion creep (O THE HORROR I CAN SEE ALL THE ARMCHAIR MECHANICS REELING ) It dont hurt nothing. Get a life you guys.
While ur in the auto store buy the Permatex blue gasket maker in the Cheezwiz tube makes it easy to put on and it eliminates the mess of storage. I carry the blue ,red and black on the boat and use the stuff all the time.
 

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