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In search of M3558 Snap-on Fuel injector timing tool

  • Thread starter Thread starter rustybucket
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rustybucket

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52' CONVERTIBLE (1983 - 1990)
Just like the title says, I've got to run the rack this fall on our 8v92's and am looking for a snapon m3558 injector timing/height tool. It's a snap-on tool and is discontinued. I have searched ebay and the web and have been unable to find one.

Would love to find somebody with one sitting on the shelf collecting dust who would like to turn it into cash!

Here are a couple of pics for reference of what it looks like.

Snap-On-Tools-M3558-Diesel-Injector-Timing-Gauge.jpg


mechanics-snap-m3558-diesel-timing_1_0d427287365661d68bfde5f41f3a410c.jpg


I do have a set of the timing pins but after talking with a few mechs and watching someone use one of these it looks like it's definitely a better mouse trap.
 
I have one but not giving it up. The pins work just fine. But to get it perfect you need the gauge
 
There is a company in Finksburg, MD, called A-1 Pressure Washers, who have a lot of Snap-On tools. They sell a lot of used tools and boxes, etc. They might have it. I'd call them.
 
You might also try T&S Marine Engines in Crisfield, MD. Ask for Tim or Steve. They used to do a lot of DD service and probably don't anymore. Also worth asking.
 
Curious why this tool is better than the pins? Isn’t anything adjustable adding a margin for error?
 
You can roll the crank back and forth with a breaker bar and see the exact height.
 
Curious why this tool is better than the pins? Isn’t anything adjustable adding a margin for error?

Not sure how much better it is, but when you tighten the lock nut you will inevitably slightly adjust the height. With a dial indicator it's instantly apparent that you moved it, no so much with the pins.

In the end, the pins work fine, just seems like the dial indicator makes the job quicker and more accurate. I do 99% of our service work, so I save a ton, but I don't mind buying the best tools for the job. If I can throw $300 at a tool to make life easier and the end product have more reliable results then I'm game.
 
Running the rack is something I really want to learn. I have the pins and wrenches, but startup after messing with things makes me pucker. Best of luck finding the part, and thanks for the info
 
Don't give up on Ebay. I bought one there a year or so ago - took many months of going back and looking again. Same for a piston ring compressor.
 
Running the rack is something I really want to learn. I have the pins and wrenches, but startup after messing with things makes me pucker. Best of luck finding the part, and thanks for the info

It's really not that bad. It's like pretty much any other valve train adjustment, if you mess it up bad enough, things can go boom lol. That being said the detroit manuals really are fantastic, they take you through step by step. Plus there are lots of videos available on youtube to help you get a visual of some specifics.

I can use a manual, but man, when I watch somebody do it, it's pretty much ingrained into my memory, so for me either watching a video, or physically watching somebody do something really helps me put things together in my head, then using the manual becomes much easier.

The bottom line with running the rack, you have to be very meticulous in completing the steps and completing them in the proper order. Past that, if you've ever set a valve on a gasser then you're pretty much 80% of the way there. If you don't have the proper manual, IMO, don't even think about attempting it.
 
They show up on eBay pretty often.. but I'm with the other commenter... the little flag tool works just as well or better. It's a simple go/no go that fits into a small hole in the surface of the head and spin it to just clear the top of the injector. The real hard thing is to determine when the injector is at the absolute bottom of it's travel. You'll see when you bar the engine over, there are NO indexing marks and you're eyeballing the injector plunger as it goes down... catching it at absolute bottom is the key. For me, the little flag too is easier to use.
 

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The injectors are set when in their relaxed or closed positions, with exhaust valves fully open.The exhaust valves are set in their relaxed or closed positions, with injectors fully open.It is simple to hand crank to these positions as the injector and exhaust lobes on the cam are practically 180 degrees from each other... https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pJkGg7Mqrs4
 
I have two of these, one new and one slightly used. If interested pm me.
 
They show up on eBay pretty often.. but I'm with the other commenter... the little flag tool works just as well or better. It's a simple go/no go that fits into a small hole in the surface of the head and spin it to just clear the top of the injector. The real hard thing is to determine when the injector is at the absolute bottom of it's travel. You'll see when you bar the engine over, there are NO indexing marks and you're eyeballing the injector plunger as it goes down... catching it at absolute bottom is the key. For me, the little flag too is easier to use.
The dial indicator on the Snap-On is a sure way to make sure of the cam position.
 

Thanks for the link, but I purchased the one posted earlier in this thread.

Just finished the tuneup procedure and I will say without a doubt this tool was worth it's weight in gold and well worth the $400 I paid for it. It made setting the injector heights a breeze and without a doubt FAR more accurate and consistent results than the pin tool or any other method.

Anybody thinking of tackling a tuneup themselves I HIGHLY recommend springing for this tool (and the other specialty wrenches/tools...etc). You are saving thousands by doing it yourself, may as well have the best equipment to do it.

After tackling this I feel VERY comfortable now pulling/replacing injectors and repairing anything else involved in the tuneup procedure.
 

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