Fuel tank pump out

[manorden]

I recently purchased a 1984 55ft Convertible. It had been seized by a bank and the previous owner had let it sit for a number of years so it is in pretty bad shape. There was a good bit of water and slop pumped into the fuel tanks prior to me getting it. So my question is what is the best way to pump out the fuel tank before I treat it for algae? I've thought about going in through the hole where you would fill up but am concerned I would not get to the bottom of the tank this way. Any input is appreciated.

 

[Pascal]

Don't know what the tank set up is on that boat. On my 53 MY with keel tanks I recently had a fuel
Polisher pump what was left and clean the tanks. They used the 2" gauge hole

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

55Cs of that vintage have a good sized main tank flange just under the cockpit access panel. The forward tank has decent access in the ER, but a smaller flange to work through. So if you're needing to get in there to clean, be prepared for the screws holding the flange to disintegrate. I've replaced them at the main tank with SS bolts. So, there's likely going to be a bit more labor than you anticipated getting it all back together if simple polishing won't cut it. The main tank bottom is 34" deep from the top of the flange, BTW. The pick-ups are in an approx. 1-1/2" sump straight down. I use a dipstick (1/8" dowel rod) with graduations to double check the mechanical gauge anytime I'm running below a half tank on the gauge. When my gauge reads below 1/4 tank you be need'n to swap tanks---if you're running clean fuel. Hope this was helpful to you.

 

[Cricket]

Besides getting rid of the fuel you're probably going to have to clean the tanks while they're empty and then suck that stuff out too.

 

[dottieshusband]

I recently purchased a 1984 55ft Convertible. It had been seized by a bank and the previous owner had let it sit for a number of years so it is in pretty bad shape. There was a good bit of water and slop pumped into the fuel tanks prior to me getting it. So my question is what is the best way to pump out the fuel tank before I treat it for algae? I've thought about going in through the hole where you would fill up but am concerned I would not get to the bottom of the tank this way. Any input is appreciated.

Is fuel polishing not possible? Sounds like your saying stuff other than fuel was intentionally pumped into the tank? My boat also a bank repo...had sat for a few years, but although several years old, the 800 gallons of fuel onboard polished up just fine.

 

[Briankinley2004]

My 55c sat for a few years as well. No water issues though. I searched and talked to alot of people about it. The general consensus was to top off with fresh fuel and carry plenty of extra racors. If it has Detroits its gonna polish the fuel on a long trip. I ran 200 miles using fuel out of both tanks. Did not have any issues but did have a fair amount of black stuff in racors. I ran them on "both" and used 10 micron instead of 30. Changed the filters and topped off again with fresh fuel. Did about a 100 mile round trip the other day and let the engines idle while we fished. I did not see any visible black stuff in racors on return. I would second the opinions above about polishing the fuel instead of disposing of it. If your tanks are full you are going to have 1200 gallons to deal with

 

[manorden]

I haven't completely ruled out polishing but I was told a good amount of water and slop had been pumped into the tanks when the boat was sitting without an owner. Also the fuel caps were missing so when it rained some water was always able to get directly in the tank. So just to be clear my plan is to get direct access to the tank and pump everything out and then refill it to treat for algae and pump out again. I believe racclarkson is on the right track with what I have to do. I have tried accessing the tank through the flange under the cockpit access but cannot get the screws to budge. Any tips or tricks here? It looks like someone used something to seal it down in the past. Hopefully not 5200... Also where are you able to access the tanks when running to get manual reading with a dip stick? Thanks so much for all the input. Y'all have already saved me hours on google searching.

 

[Cricket]

Think you're on the right track, was involved with a boat that had sat for 7 years, polisher tried to filter the fuel but it was too far gone so we pumped it. We ended up cutting a few 10 inch holes in the top of each tank to work through, took a pressure washer to the inside and then pumped out that mess before putting in clean fuel.
I'm a big fan of PB Blaster to get stuff unstuck. Maybe some heat will help loosen things up.

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

Good advice from the Crickster. But, I doubt those screws will budge. They'll probably just break off. No worries, just drill them out and retap to next size up. There probably sealant, but even 5200 will come up. It'll take some heat and some flat tools to wedge it up. Just be easy with the tank. It's pretty robust in that area, but nicks around the flange will have to be addressed--so be easy.

Yes you can dip the tanks underway, but best done stopped. Why not install a simple mechanical gauge while your at it?

Here's picture. The flange is about 8" X 8".


That's my dipstick (with white graduation) on the right.

 

[piripucha]

You could also unscrew were the mechanical sendre/dial sits, but you will be limited by the small diameter of the hole, I belive 2".

 

[manorden]

Piripucha I was wondering if that was possible. Good to know. I think I'm going to try what racclarkson suggested and if that doesn't work then start the hole cutting that cricket resorted to.

 

[Cricket]

Your probably going to have to make a new gasket for the plate.
All of the plates I've removed needed some extra help to bust loose.
Good advice about drilling out and retapping the machine screws that get busted of
as they're pretty soft, you may have better luck cranking those out than you would think. Don't forget to presoak with PB Blaster

 

[Pascal]

I wouldn't mess with the plate and open that can of worms. The 2" gauge hole is big enough to use a wand and move it around to stir stuff. That s how we did it on my 53

 

[Reefgeorge]

We have a guy in central Florida that comes out with a rack of Racors on a dolley, get the pick up tube into your tank acces and returns to the tank fill. He takes the racors off line to replace the pleated elements as needed. Gets out water and crud.

I never had to do it but I know of a 61' Viking that took on 1000 ga of badly contaminated fuel in the Bahamas and had no elegant option except constantly changing the racors while the boat ran and they kept the boat running. Unfortunately in time the mess damaged the fuel pumps/injectors so be careful with self polishing.

When we ran long Bahama trips every year I had made a portable polishing system with an electric fuel transfer pump, Racor, hoses and hard dip stick but I never had to use it. I probably spent a few hundered dollars putting it together. I belive that the remote polishing guy charges less.

George

 

[MVCaprice]

I still can't get over that someone pumped water and crap into the fuel tanks.......Dirtbags!

 

[BOATER BOB]

Diesel fuel is good for about 20 years in a clean tank and diesel and water are arch enemies get the water out and slime cleaned out add some good fuel to it and get some Racor's and give it a go.
Bob

 

[Cricket]

I recently purchased a 1984 55ft Convertible. It had been seized by a bank and the previous owner had let it sit for a number of years so it is in pretty bad shape. There was a good bit of water and slop pumped into the fuel tanks prior to me getting it. So my question is what is the best way to pump out the fuel tank before I treat it for algae? I've thought about going in through the hole where you would fill up but am concerned I would not get to the bottom of the tank this way. Any input is appreciated.

Please read the entire threads/posts, this isn't the every day bad fuel scenario, the boat sat for years with the tank caps off, the boat was repossessed, the previous owner is thought to have sabotaged the fuel because of the bank.....

 

[Reefgeorge]

I have never had to dispose of hundereds of gallons of fuel but if that cost plus fuel replacent cost is a big number then I would have the fuel polished at the dock with a house call, assess its condition and if the guy thinks it's salvageable then have what's left tested. Once it's been drawn down then the tank may have to be cleaned before you start over. Just don't ruin your fuel pumps and injectors, that's many thousands.

George

 

[flogger]

I have been battling this problem for a year and a half with my 41 C. Boat blew an engine and I bought it with motor blown. So it sat for a year or so. O ring was missing from fuel fill and I didn't realize. When we got it ready to go I had a good trip in the intercoastal and no issues as the water was smooth. The next day I took her out fishing and was in engine room entire day. I was getting heavy sludge stuck in spinners.(which are now removed) I called mechanic and he brought polisher and cleaned fuel. Next day had same problem, he came back that night and polished again. The short of it is I am using the manual fuel gauge hole and bought my own polisher ($1500) moves 4 gpm. so for the last year and a half every trip when I come in I hook it up. I get a small amount out in a short time but then I could run it for 2 days and not get any more. The baffling is the issue not being able to get to back of tank. I talked to many people and did every suggestion I could. I made a capped pipe drill small hole in end cap and hooked to air compressor. We agitated the fuel as we polished. Again this really didn't work. Also I have poured every chemical known to man in it and it never killed or broke it down. I was still getting clear fuel with heavy solids. 3 weeks ago I was reading on a forum and a mechanic from workboats in gulf said he dealt with this all his life. Gave a chemical name and I ordered. (can get name if you need chemical on boat and I don't remember name). so three weeks ago I poured a double dose in it and finally I'm getting black liquid at the raycor. It seems to be breaking down which is a good thing bad thing situation. Stopping up filters but I think we are on the right track. I am this week going to mount the polisher in the boat take the fuel gauge out and using a pvc cap with two holes drilled in it make it where I can run polisher while at sea. this way I am hoping while being sloshed around the polisher will pick up more material. for me the $1500 polisher was a good investment and paid for itself in short order. Sorry for the long post but this is a battle I've been on for a while.

 

[Reefgeorge]

I had no idea that this can be such a nightmare scenario and so difficult to solve. At this point, some of my suggestions may be naive and under powered so I defer to those who have had to solve a much bigger problem than I have.

Let us know how you are progressing on this.

George