Dock Boost Transformer

[Hat52MY]

I'm tired of lugging around an external BucBooster for docks that only have 208v. I was looking for alternative and came across this today. It appears to be the next generation Charles Iso-Boost, plus it has some intelligence built in to deal with low/high level line volt conditions, which would be good for the Bahamas, but is vague on the details. Curious, if anyone has any experience with this device...good, bad, other???

In addition, does this device automatically disconnect the vessel from the low (<102v L1/L2) and high (>132v L1/L2) voltage situations until voltage power normalizes or would some other Surge Guard be required?

https://aseapower.com/product/dock-boost-transformer/
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/product-resources/newmar/dbt-series-spec-sheet-2-4-pdf
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/asea-power-systems-dock-boost-transformer-dbt

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Or, just put in a boost switch on your existing transformers and be done with lugging any other transformer around for good. When I added mine, I had less then $200 in parts.

 

[Hat52MY]

Very valid point....had not thought about utilizing the existing transformers and adding a manual switch for boost. According to the Hatteras Ships Service System Schematic drawing there are TWO 15KVA Jefferson Electric Polarization transformers on board with input of 120/240v and output 108/216 - 120/240.

The next big question, where are these transformers located on a 52' 1994 Hat? I've had just about every panel removed at some point in time over the last 10 years and don't recall ever seeing these transformers. Are they possibly behind the main AC breaker panel?

 

[Red Hatt]

In a 53 there located in the generator compartment

 

[oscarvan]

In a 53 there located in the generator compartment

IF you have them. Mine is a 78 (don't know which month) and does NOT have any. Apparently I just missed it as they started putting them in around this time.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

IF you have them. Mine is a 78 (don't know which month) and does NOT have any. Apparently I just missed it as they started putting them in around this time.

All of the 52's have them. They are in the engine room.

 

[Captain Ralph]

I'm always confused why folk are using these up-transformers.
When on modern docks and receiving 208 Vac (two legs of 3-phase), You are getting a very heavy 50Amps of service.
Since most high voltage equipment works well at 200Vac, why sacrifice the amps available.
Nothing is for free; you want more volts, available current must be and is sacrificed.

If your on the end of an old dock and getting the remains after the customers closer to shore have sucked it all up, Your remaining current already sux and you are loosing more available current using a step up Vac transformer.

Low current transformers are not smart, they will overheat trying to deliver what they can. Thermo protection just turns them selves off for a while, just to cook some more when powered back on.
Cheaper transformers fry and can start fires.

Where is any logic is using a boost Vac transformer?

The original Isolation transformers Hatteras had were for isolation. Hence the term.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Ralph,
If your boat has an isolation tranformer, the voltage is halved for single leg loads. So, when on 208v, you are only getting 104v . This makes lights dim and appliances not heat properly. Also, low voltage creates heat in compressors and motors which tends to shorten their life.

Without the transformers, you get 120v to each leg so you never notice being on 208v service except for the two-pole loads.


Running on 208v already is consuming more amps than on 240v so boosting is not changing that.

The original transformers while intended for isolation will also provide boost if the proper switching is installed. I converted mine to boost years ago. It works great for providing proper voltage to all loads while also providing isolation.

 

[Captain Ralph]

If your boat has an isolation tranformer, the voltage is halved for single leg loads. So, when on 208v, you are only getting 104v . This makes lights dim and appliances not heat properly.

This makes some sense, Thank you for this comment.


But still, nothing is for free.
Boosting the voltage cost amperage, W = A x V.

IMO;
the available current on the output of a boost transformer has been lowered before the breaker panel.
Or, The dockside service breaker trips more often, trying to feed the boost transformer.

Then the inherent waist. I have leaned on some of these flat top grills, that's more wasted wattage.

There has to be a better way to keep your lights bright?

 

[Sadey]

We found out the hard way why we need a booster. Two of our older AC units would not run. I understand you can program the voltage thresholds to run on 208 but not sure which is worse, lower the operating range or wire the boost. One of our docks had a boost transformer left by a former tenant so we split the $600 cost to move the box to our dock with the marina management. I’m hoping to wire my transformers for boost capability this summer.

 

[Captain Ralph]

I understand you can program the voltage thresholds to run on 208 but not sure which is worse, lower the operating range or wire the boost.

I understand it's not changing the program to run on lower Vac, your adjusting the low voltage alarm and turn off level.
With the owners manual, takes about 30 seconds to adjust on SMX units.

 

[madhatter1]

Ralph,
If your boat has an isolation tranformer, the voltage is halved for single leg loads. So, when on 208v, you are only getting 104v . This makes lights dim and appliances not heat properly. Also, low voltage creates heat in compressors and motors which tends to shorten their life.

Without the transformers, you get 120v to each leg so you never notice being on 208v service except for the two-pole loads.


Running on 208v already is consuming more amps than on 240v so boosting is not changing that.

The original transformers while intended for isolation will also provide boost if the proper switching is installed. I converted mine to boost years ago. It works great for providing proper voltage to all loads while also providing isolation.

The voltage between phases has nothing to do with voltage from hot to neutral. 208 service can have 110-120v on the outlets and such. Same as a full 240 can also have 110-120V. This all depends on the utility transformer taps and windings.

We were just at an event with temporary docks. All the newer boats were having issues with breakers tripping. We were getting less than 208, more like 204. Event electrician "proved" they were supplying 240 since they had 120 on each leg to neutral. But on mine and everyone elses meters we showed the low voltage. So I got my meter out and showed the guy low voltage between the legs. This expurt told me that's not how it works.

I gave up and enjoyed the event since all my old school stuff was running fine. Several boats ended up running generators all weekend.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

We can rehash this old topic over and over and over again but the easy solution remains. Just use the transformers that are already on the boat and add a boost switch. Its simple and cheap and does the job. I can't believe people don't do this.

 

[madhatter1]

Sky, what is the boost switch? Do you have a link to the product? Sure would be nice to bump up 20 volts. See a lot of 208 in FL. I will say that at all the 208 locations the volts don't even flinch when compressors kick on so utility supply and dock wiring are good. But why 208 when boats require 230/240v?

 

[SKYCHENEY]

I used a rotary switch. You just have to tie two leads together from the windings in the transformer. I've posted this procedure here several times with specific instructions. I've done this on my boat and a 60C in our marina. Maybe I can find one of the old threads.

EDIT: Found one. Look here

https://www.samsmarine.com/forums/s...-mod&highlight=primary+secondary+boost+switch

 

[Boatsb]

Marinas are served with commercial power. That's 208 3 phase. Homes get residential power that's 240 single phase.

Good Marinas have transformers to make the 208 into 240. Better ones have 3 phase for larger vessels and 240 for the rest.

If you boost 208 to 240 you have a loss of amperage. It's about 13% loss. Same watts though.

 

[Hat43c1981]

I too have this same issue on our 1981 43c. Our dock supplies 208v to the pedestal, and our cruisair ac units require 230v. I am currently using a buck/boost transformer between the pedestal and the boat that is boosting my incoming (to the boat) voltage to around 225 volts. I would love to not have to use this auxiliary transformer if I didn't have to.

Does anyone know where the onboard transformer would be on our Hatt? There is a green metal box under the cockpit floor that has wiring going to it and from it? I am not sure what it is exactly.

I would love to install a "switch" like you guys are talking about. I just don't know if our Hatt is currently set up for this additional switch to boost the voltage.

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[SKYCHENEY]

I'm not sure that the 43's ever came with isolation transformers. You'll have to look at that box and find the info plate on it. Most of the 'smaller' Hatts of that vintage had polarization transformers, but not isolation transformers.

 

[Hat43c1981]

I'm not sure that the 43's ever came with isolation transformers. You'll have to look at that box and find the info plate on it. Most of the 'smaller' Hatts of that vintage had polarization transformers, but not isolation transformers.

Thanks SKYCHENEY. I will take a look at the box in question to see if I can find out what it is.

 

[Dan Mapes]

We had an '85 43' and it absolutely had the xformer. I never opened it up and looked at the terminals tho. It was a large humming blue painted steel clad box next to the fire extinguisher on the aft bilge wall on the port side just off center. Not sure which type it was.