"Cracked" Fiberglass Exhaust Tube

[DLCameron2]

Guys:

While putting in the new countertops we found some "soot" under the exhaust access hatch in the mid-cabin head. I checked the clamps and did not like the corrosion etc. Upon removing the old clamps and installing new, a running test showed an ongoing exhaust leak. Further close examination of the tube shows a crack or delamination exactly at the joint where the hose connects to it. It is in a horrible place for access. Probably nearly impossible to reomove the tube section and replace it. I am thinking about attempting a "good" fiberglass repair and then putting additional rubber hose and clamps over the area. Your thoughts?

DC

 

[REBrueckner]

If you can scrape, sand the area clean for a good adhesion of new epoxy, no reason several layers of epoxy and cloth shouldn't fix the area for another 50 years or so...unless it is burned thru and the glass tube is shot in that area....As long as the hose clamp connection does not leak, you should be ok.....

 

[Avenger]

I've been here, done this. All of my tubes were cracked because they had been overtightened and did not have stainless crush collars to support them. The ones I fixed I did with polyester resin because I was a little leery of using epoxy in a "hot" application, but I don't really think it would have mattered.

Be sure you have the crush collars. I got mine from Metcalf Marine Exhaust.

www.mmxhaust.com

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Don,
Call me. Mine were like that on both sides. I had to disassemble the closet on the stbd side to get to it. I repaired both with some fiberglass matt. Been leak free to 5 years now.

 

[DCMY #92]

I think the repair suggestions are sound. However, you need to determine what caused the crack - overheating, over-tight clamps, or something else.

 

[bobk]

Try to make the repair with a resin designed for hot/wet applications. Some vinyl esters are as well as SOME epoxies. Check the temperature limits for what you are using. 'Boat resin' would not be my choice.