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Chrysler 426 Parts

D

david_lavigne2540

Active member
Joined
Feb 28, 2007
Messages
56
Hatteras Model
41' DOUBLE CABIN (1962 - 1965)
For our OLD Chrysler 426 Engines, Where do you get your parts from?

I have a cheat sheet of part# from Advance Auto Parts that I've use worked for everything but the spark plug wires, so far.

Auto places want the car. But I have a boat. They tell me, I can't find it unless it's a car. Well Try a Dodge 440 "426 Engine". I also take off the part and bring it in, and they try to match it.

I still have the point system, not electronic ignition.
 
NAPA and other professional parts places that hire grownups are a good place to go.

I have an advance auto parts down the road and I go there because I need something right away like oil or antifreeze.. I will take the run to NAPA when I need something expensive ( I get much better prices at NAPA) and something thats harder to find or of better quality.


Don't tell my insurance company I bought brake pads at advanced last time.
 
I've had three guys at Advance Auto that went the extra mile one in Palmetto FL and the other two in Biloxi MS. They are also open late when I get off work where NAPA isn't.

And Napa sold me a AIR hose connector for a gasoline line while it might work. I've since replaced it with a Marco. And I told them it was for a marine engine.

My problem is the length of the barb hose fittings on mine(Original??). They are short and impossible to get two clamps on it.

I want a new fuel pump for my starboard engine. The port engine has a screw on barb that can be replaced. The starboard has a welded barb which is too short to double clamp. So I guess, I need to replace the whole unit. On the Long List rather than the "Broken parts" short list.

Laughs, and how do you find something when you don't have a part#?
 
You need to make sure the fuel pumps have TWO diaphragms! There is a vent tube to the flame arrester so that if the pump leaks, the vacuum will draw the fumes/fuel into the intake and burn there and not in the bilge!
The OEM merc pumps have a "sediment bowl" that captures any leaks and give you a "witness sample". The replacements have the vacuum tube. FWIW, if yours are incorrect and you get found out, (gendarmes etc) the boat will get impounded for being unseaworthy. That single clamp barb may be an automotive pump! ws
 
The Dodge 440 "426" was a max wedge car. As such the engine was a competition-only powerplant and sold by Mopar with that specifically stated in the owners manual. In fact, it stated that "Wide open throttle use should not exceed 15 seconds." These were purpose-built Super Stock drag race engines at the time SO...although many ancillary parts would be suitable for the marine version, many other parts would not - like pistons, cams, heads, carbs, etc.

Just a caution to ensure you don't end up with 13:5 to 1 compression set of pistons for your marine engine!
 
david_lavigne2540 said:
For our OLD Chrysler 426 Engines, Where do you get your parts from?

I have a cheat sheet of part# from Advance Auto Parts that I've use worked for everything but the spark plug wires, so far.

Auto places want the car. But I have a boat. They tell me, I can't find it unless it's a car. Well Try a Dodge 440 "426 Engine". I also take off the part and bring it in, and they try to match it.

I still have the point system, not electronic ignition.
Click to expand...


This may help you:

w**.allpar.com/mopar/383.html

Almost all big block Chrysler's share the same parts. Cams, heads, intakes, with the exception of B vs RB motors.

As for the part which broke, I would remove it and have one made. I don't know what its exact shape and function is, but I don't think it would be too hard to make.

I would imagine that some of the marine exhaust parts like that one, would be very hard to find.

Then again, it might be here:

w**.hurrikain.com/Chrysler-exhaust.htm

The fuel pump may be here: w**.hurrikain.com/Chrysler-fuelpumps.htm

The engine parts, on the other hand, are readily available from the aftermarket.

Since this is my first post, you will have to add the http and www to the links above.

I would also replace the old ignition system with the electronic. I have probably bought at least 20 of the conversion kits for cars from Mopar Performance. It provides a hotter spark, the plugs last longer, and better performance. It is about the first thing that the automotive hot rodders do to the sixties muscle cars. You may also want to upgrade your ignition coil.

A suggestion, after you convert to electronic, keep the original distributer and other parts in the box the conversion kit came in and keep those on the boat. Although it is rare, I have had a couple of the relucters fail. On land, it wasn't that hard to get towed home. At sea, that may be different story!

I didn't see an introductions page, or I would have introduced myself there. I am a friend of Paul45C.
 
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David,
I just got both heads rebuilt - not the heads in the bathroom, the heads that that make you go fast and smooth happy.
Our engines are 426 streets not max wedges. It doesn't make a difference in NAPA or advanced auto, but it does make a difference when getting a head job. No dirty thoughts here!!
 
David,

I have a few question for you. Do you know the history for the boat? I ask for two reasons.

1) The two different color paints. The green paint on the heads was used on the early sixties Chryslers. The blue paint on the front of the motor was used on the later motors from 67 on up.

2) Are you sure that is a 426 engine?
I ask that because the deck height is different on the 361-383-400 (B)engines vs the 413-426-440 (RB) engines. The RB engines use a longer distributor. On your engine, there is a spacer between the distributor and the block. A RB distributer will fit in a "B" block using the spacer. The "B" distributer will not fit in and "RB" engine.

Spacer, expensive version: add http to the front of this chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/disadset.html

I would verify exactly what size engine you have. Most big blocks have the engine size stamped on the pad next to the distributor. If it isn't there, it should be in the right side of the block.
 
I'm going with the what the survey says, because I've yet to find any markings on the engine block including the one almost completely torn down.
The Survey said that the Starboard engine was recently rebuilt. Of course, it's the one with the rotated cam bearings.

It may be a straight 426 or a wedge. I have very little clue about engines. Luckily, I'm very good at taking things apart and getting it back together again with the same number of parts. Take it slow and have a camera ready.
 
david_lavigne2540 said:
I'm going with the what the survey says, because I've yet to find any markings on the engine block including the one almost completely torn down.
The Survey said that the Starboard engine was recently rebuilt. Of course, it's the one with the rotated cam bearings.

It may be a straight 426 or a wedge. I have very little clue about engines. Luckily, I'm very good at taking things apart and getting it back together again with the same number of parts. Take it slow and have a camera ready.
Click to expand...


There should be a series of numbers some where on the motor.

They should be on the right side of the block.

When you find them, copy and paste the following into your browser: cowtownmopars.com/CastingNumbers.html

and you will know what block you have.

Personally, I believe that something happened to the original 426 engine and it was replaced with a later version big block. I would speculate that it is a 383 with the 426 heads and camshaft, which is a good thing. The reason it is a good thing is that the 383, if a 67-69 version had 9.5 compression. By adding the cam and heads from its "big brother" the 426, it is comparable to a 383 "Magnum/Super Commando" engine. They were rated at 335 hp, if I remember correctly which would be comparable to the marine version of the 426. The 426 probably has a little bit more torque, but, I don't think it would matter much in your application.

Although I am no surveyor, those three numbers in my screen name are there for a reason.
 
Grins,

That's like the firing order being stamped on the engine block. My friend(Non-mech), My other friend(a hobby Race Mech), A full time Car Mechanic, a marine mechanic amature, and myself couldn't find any numbers on either engine.

I know that they are there because the survey wrote the engine part numbers and serial numbers, so they should be visible. I've looked on every side, under over except for behind where the transmission connection is. I'll look one more time. The model# & serial numbers from a 2004 & 2007 survey list the 426 engine with the serial numbers only being about 100+ off. But that's my memory vs looking directly at the survey about the serial numbers.

Plus I think that the engine was repainted during the last rebuild.
 
david_lavigne2540 said:
Grins,

That's like the firing order being stamped on the engine block. My friend(Non-mech), My other friend(a hobby Race Mech), A full time Car Mechanic, a marine mechanic armature, and myself couldn't find any numbers on either engine.

I know that they are there because the survey wrote the engine part numbers and serial numbers, so they should be visible. I've looked on every side, under over except for behind where the transmission connection is. I'll look one more time. The model# & serial numbers from a 2004 & 2007 survey list the 426 engine with the serial numbers only being about 100+ off. But that's my memory vs looking directly at the survey about the serial numbers.

Plus I think that the engine was repainted during the last rebuild.
Click to expand...


The numbers may be located behind the starter. Since there is only one bolt holding it on, might as well remove it to take a look. You could also change the leaking freeze plug while you have the room. The JB Weld over the old dip stick tube hole was a nice touch from the previous "mechanic"! Grins!

I hope you understand I am just trying to help you determine exactly what you have. That is why I put the links in my previous posts. I also read your other post about the timing issues and the up-side-down cam bearings. It would appear as though the previous mechanic....wasn't. (sarcastic grin)

I have been "toying" with big block Chryslers since I was 16. I am 47 now. My first car was a 69 Cuda with a 383 Super Commando. My favorite motor is the 440. I have owned every year Barracuda and every engine combination with the exception of the HEMI Convertible. I have had numerous A-Bodies all with swapped in 440s.

As for the surveyor writing down the numbers, he may have gotten them from the ID tag bolted to the motor. If the tag was switched when the motor was rebuilt, then it may be inaccurate.

Good Luck!
 
Nobody said check behind the starter.

And I'll never complain about somebody offering to help/advise. If I do the boat will sink. (laughs) Even bad advise, can be helpful because you can avoid doing it the wrong way. (laughs) And you learn why not to do it that way.

One day soon my Log Book will be put online. Writing it up right now. Didn't think it was important, now I do. Got to get all my information in one place and more pictures.
 
david_lavigne2540 said:
Auto places want the car. But I have a boat. They tell me, I can't find it unless it's a car.
Click to expand...


I have a '49 Ford pick-up. Every time I walk into Auto Zone or Advance they want to know the make and year. I play their game an tell 'em. Then after they look dumb for a few seconds I ask the original question: "do you carry...etc., etc."

A wise man once said (hell, may have even been on this Forum):

“….and looked at me like I was from YERANUS when I asked them about straight 40. I guess BRENT runs some exotic syntho shit in his nitrosed Yamaguchi, but he can recite speaker impedance on his ghetto blaster. EXCELLENT, DUDE !!! Trust the parts guy with WHITE HAIR !!! ws”
 
Ok, here are the parts that I've used on the engines so far.
Store Part# Description
AdvAutoPart ALC72 Ignition Condensor
AdvAutoPart CR2 Ignition Points
AdvAutoPart GC122 Ignition Coil
AdvAutoPart R45S Spark Plugs
AdvAutoPart 15802 Plug Wire Set Marine Grade -- Too Short, Wrong Size
AdvAutoPart 120323 Distributor Cap
AdvAutoPart AL153 Rotor

From the Survey not seen on the engines yet.
Chrysler Marine 426BWA15
Port SN 81440
Starboard SN 81810
Kohler 6.5kw SN 249904

Firing Order on Port Engine 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 Standard Rotation
Firing Order on Starboard Engine 2-7-5-6-3-4-8-1 Reverse Rotation

And if you look closely on my starboard engine pictures, You'll see a 7 & a 5 written on the distributor cap where 7 & 5 should go. The other numbers you can't see. (laughs)
 
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david_lavigne2540 said:
Ok, here are the parts that I've used on the engines so far.
Store Part# Description
AdvAutoPart ALC72 Ignition Condenser
AdvAutoPart CR2 Ignition Points
AdvAutoPart GC122 Ignition Coil
AdvAutoPart R45S Spark Plugs
AdvAutoPart 15802 Plug Wire Set Marine Grade -- Too Short, Wrong Size
AdvAutoPart 120323 Distributor Cap
AdvAutoPart AL153 Rotor

From the Survey not seen on the engines yet.
Chrysler Marine 426BWA15
Port SN 81440
Starboard SN 81810
Kohler 6.5kw SN 249904

Firing Order on Port Engine 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 Standard Rotation
Firing Order on Starboard Engine 2-7-5-6-3-4-8-1 Reverse Rotation

And if you look closely on my starboard engine pictures, You'll see a 7 & a 5 written on the distributor cap where 7 & 5 should go. The other numbers you can't see. (laughs)
Click to expand...


It is good that you keep a parts log. We used to do the same thing with the cars. Older A-Body Mopars used a small bolt pattern for the wheels which limits wheel and tire selection. The newer cars use a bigger pattern. After you swap the K-frame and other parts from a 74 dart, and the rear end, that gets narrowed from a Chrysler imperial, now you are up to three cars, if you were doing this to your 69 Cuda, that you have to keep track of!

As for you Mopar power guys here, it would appear the the Hurrikain.com site has all of the motor parts you need as well as manuals. I would avoid the auto parts places unless it was an emergency.

I don't know what you are going to do regarding your current power situation David. It should be fun!

Of course for me, I might do something like this: w**.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/mopar/bigblock/0506em_hemi/index.html
(Very Big Grin!!!)
 
I don't like flying in a boat. 600 HP on one engine where I have a total of 580 on both, strikes me as Overkill. (laughs). If I put that in, I might never touch the water except occassionally. Where do I mount the wings and props?
 
"Firing Order on Starboard Engine 2-7-5-6-3-4-8-1 Reverse Rotation"

Engine firing order ALWAYS starts at 1. Engine timing is ALWAYS based on 1. The firing order for the reverse engine is noted in an earlier post on this thread.

Strictly speaking, you could note the sequence in the correct order starting from any cylinder . For example, one could state that the firing order is: 56348127 but from an operating and mechanical point of view everything is based on cyl 1 so stating from anything else just creates confusion.

What the surveyor did was simply invert the number sequence of the standard firing order but if you actually tried to time the engine that way, using number 2 as the base, it wouldn't run.

It's the first time in my life I've ever heard anyone refer to ignition timing starting from other than 1. Makes me wonder what else the surveyor doesn't know...
 
David, PM me your address, I made a copy of the 1965 Chrysler Marine Engine Manual for you.
 
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