1976 Hatteras 58 LRC Stabilizer System Install

[JD5652]

Update 1/18/22 - Trial fitting of the actuator to the support block and support block to the hull continued today. Sorry... no pics of substance on the stabilizer install today.

 

[Captain Ralph]

Am I seeing them matching a pre-drilled back plate to a pre-drilled hole in the hull?
In my installs, we matched the back block to the hull then drilled one hole thru all.

 

[JD5652]

... However.... Miss Maggie is also getting some additional work done while up on the hard... new Dripless Packing.. the PYI Pro system...

 

[JD5652]

Refresh the bootstripe...

 

[JD5652]

Am I seeing them matching a pre-drilled back plate to a pre-drilled hole in the hull?
In my installs, we matched the back block to the hull then drilled one hole thru all.

Capt Ralph -

The support block and SS backing plate are matched and pre-drilled at the NIAID factory. The center hole is transcribed to the hull. A custom made 6-5/8" hole saw is used to cut the hole in the hull. This hole saw was custom made to size for the NIAID actuator shaft assembly.

I'm not sure if the support block gets glassed in before the six mounting holes are drilled in the hull or not. I'll ask tomorrow.

 

[Captain Ralph]

Capt Ralph -

The support block and SS backing plate are matched and pre-drilled at the NIAID factory. The center hole is transcribed to the hull. A custom made 6-5/8" hole saw is used to cut the hole in the hull. This hole saw was custom made to size for the NIAID actuator shaft assembly.

I'm not sure if the support block gets glassed in before the six mounting holes are drilled in the hull or not. I'll ask tomorrow.

A little different from our mode many years ago.
All is looking great and clean. Good time for that nice shaft and shaft log work also.
Big smiles.

 

[JD5652]

1/19/22 Update -

Trimming and fairing of the support blocks continue. The starboard support block trimming is complete and the port support block is expected to be complete by tomorrow. Then the dry fit with the actuator mounted will be performed. Once the orientation and mounting position of the actuators are complete, the support blocks will be glassed to the hull. West Systems epoxy, fillers, etc will be used for the glass work. Once the support blocks are glassed and cured, then the bolt mounting holes will be drilled and actuator mounted onto the support block. Once actuator is mounted, then the fins will be mounted.

Pics from today....

 

[JD5652]

Fins being primed and will receive 3-4 coats of bottom paint ....

 

[edward]

Why is wood used for the reinforcing blocks? Is there not a synthetic material that would work ? I have enjoyed the post .

 

[JD5652]

Why is wood used for the reinforcing blocks? Is there not a synthetic material that would work ? I have enjoyed the post .

Edward -

i asked the same exact question. It was explained to me that wood, specifically mahogany, has better strength, flexibility and adhesion ability to resins and fiberglass than composites. I am not a marine architect nor a mechanical/structural engineer, but NIAID has all those disciplines on staff and this is their design.... so I am pressing the "I believe" button on this one.

 

[edward]

Thanks , I would certainly follow their recommendations . Hope it turns out well . Come South to Elizabeth City NC if you can . Regards Edward

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Edward -

i asked the same exact question. It was explained to me that wood, specifically mahogany, has better strength, flexibility and adhesion ability to resins and fiberglass than composites. I am not a marine architect nor a mechanical/structural engineer, but NIAID has all those disciplines on staff and this is their design.... so I am pressing the "I believe" button on this one.

Looks like the same blocks that I have that were installed in 1986. I guess, if that's what works, why change it?

 

[jmooney]

I am now rebuilding my stabilizers . They were installed by Hatteras at the factory. The blocks are round . They have absorbed water and are too soft in places , so I am replacing them with fiberglass, GPO-3 , it is very heavy, so I am lightning them in the center . I consulted with Naiad on this . Cost is the big issue. I got a quote of $9500 for blocks in G-10 , an epoxy fiberglass. And believe it or not,a quote of $13,000 for GPO -3 , a polyester fiberglass. I bought the GPO-3 for less then $800 and had a water jet company in Ft Lauderdale cut pieces for $350 . I was quoted $965 to do this in mahogany. Other than weight, the other problem is that the fiberglass is very rigid, mahogany may more forgiving. I will keep you informed.

 

[JD5652]

I am now rebuilding my stabilizers . They were installed by Hatteras at the factory. The blocks are round . They have absorbed water and are too soft in places , so I am replacing them with fiberglass, GPO-3 , it is very heavy, so I am lightning them in the center . I consulted with Naiad on this . Cost is the big issue. I got a quote of $9500 for blocks in G-10 , an epoxy fiberglass. And believe it or not,a quote of $13,000 for GPO -3 , a polyester fiberglass. I bought the GPO-3 for less then $800 and had a water jet company in Ft Lauderdale cut pieces for $350 . I was quoted $965 to do this in mahogany. Other than weight, the other problem is that the fiberglass is very rigid, mahogany may more forgiving. I will keep you informed.

Interesting info .... the original blocks on my boat were also round. You can see the imprint in this pic...

My understanding is that the entire mahogany will be coated in resin in my install where there is no fiberglass. I understand they will add thickened resin to the underside and let it cure to set the block in place. Then they will fiberglass onto the sides of the block going down to the hull. Then the top of the block will be coated in thickened epoxy. Hopefully this will prevent any future water intrusion.

 

[Scarlett]

Interesting mine they glassed over the entire block, top included, and used a lot of glass.

 

[edward]

I am now rebuilding my stabilizers . They were installed by Hatteras at the factory. The blocks are round . They have absorbed water and are too soft in places , so I am replacing them with fiberglass, GPO-3 , it is very heavy, so I am lightning them in the center . I consulted with Naiad on this . Cost is the big issue. I got a quote of $9500 for blocks in G-10 , an epoxy fiberglass. And believe it or not,a quote of $13,000 for GPO -3 , a polyester fiberglass. I bought the GPO-3 for less then $800 and had a water jet company in Ft Lauderdale cut pieces for $350 . I was quoted $965 to do this in mahogany. Other than weight, the other problem is that the fiberglass is very rigid, mahogany may more forgiving. I will keep you informed.

I recently had a tooth crowned and the dentist used some kind of a laser wand to make a3D measurement of my mouth/tooth . They sent the information to a lab . I guessed they used a 3D printer to make the crown. A week later got the crown installed ,maybe 5 minutes. Perfect fit ! ( probably used 5200 3M !). Maybe there is some kind of equipment to make odd shapes out of epoxy!?

 

[JD5652]

Interesting mine they glassed over the entire block, top included, and used a lot of glass.

Did they glass over the internal brass mounting plate and support block mounting screw heads as well?

 

[Scarlett]

I don’t remember that brass plate, if it’s there it must have gone on after the glassing.

 

[JD5652]

1/20/22 Update -


The support block fairing and shaping is complete. The support blocks haven been temporarily affixed to the hull. The actuators have been lifted onto the boat and staged in the engine room. Interesting factoid... each actuator weighs in at 137 pounds.


Tomorrow and early next week they will be dry fit onto the support blocks to determine correct orientation and if there are any interferences that need to be cleared.

 

[jmooney]

It is not brass , it’s steel, probably zinc plated. It should not be covered as the measurement from the bottom of the boat to the top of this plate is fairly critical. It’s purpose is to provide a platform to jack the actuator out of the block if needed. I wish that I didn’t throw my old ones away , so I could show you the amount of deformation due too the soft blocks that I had .