Water Line Flare Fitting Leaks

[Vincentc]

Suggestions please regarding my leaking flare fittings at the water heater. The copper flare fittings at the heater leaked when I reconnected them. I smoothed the surfaces with 600 grit wet/dry paper and they dripped, much less but still some. I disconnected, sanded some more and tried again, still a problem.

Reviewing old posts it appears that I may need to cut and reflare the copper tubing. Before I go out and buy a new tool and cut stuff, is that my best next step?

Also, what about the fitting that goes into the flare, should it be replaced?

My time for trial and error is getting thin. We have a High School graduation party for a nephew scheduled on the boat tomorrow afternoon.

Thanks

 

[sgharford]

When previous owner replaced water heater on my 43DC, he cut the copper tubing and slipped reinforced nylon tubing over it (no flare made) with 3 hose clamps that went to barbed fittings on water heater. Kind of ghetto, but holding fine with no leaks after 3 years of ownership.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

The copper flares are work hardened from going on and off. The brass nuts are harder material. You may also have a cracked flare right where it meets the tubing. Go the ghetto route! Flares are difficult when you can only reach in with a left hand!! ws

 

[REBrueckner]

You can try smearing a bit of silicone gasket goop on it as a temporary measure....only takes five minutes if you have it available....

 

[Trojan]

As Bill said. Cut the old flair off and redo it. Or you could dry the fittings and squeeze a dab of Seals All on the matting surface. A buck and a quarter a tube at any hardware.

BILL

 

[Vincentc]

Went back to the plumbing supply this afternoon. They did not have a flaring tool, nor did they have fittings with hose barbs, but they did have compression fittings.

Everything is connected, dry, and working fine. I had hot water in less than an hour.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[BUSTER]

PEX. Take what you have to any good hardware or plumbing supply store,show it to the counterman,explain what you are trying to do and match it up with the corresponding PEX replacement adapters.There are several other brands using push on nylon adapters that are also very good.

Over the years I have converted several boats including BUSTER to all PEX with nylon tubing.The stuff is great. It pushes together,adapts to existing copper with a simple push on coupling,does not leak and if it freezes,it is not damaged.

 

[sandspur1966]

If replacing I would consider the SeaTech product before PEX.

I recently had my potable water system replumbed with it and the fittings are very high quality and easy to install.

I got the tip from Roger Wetherington during the first Hat School and had Bruce do the work here in NY.

Could not be more pleased with the quality, it comes in different colors (used red for warm and blue for cold) and it doesnt require any crimping tools etc.

http://www.seatechinc.com/

Shawn

 

[yachtsmanbill]

If replacing I would consider the SeaTech product before PEX.

I recently had my potable water system replumbed with it and the fittings are very high quality and easy to install.

I got the tip from Roger Wetherington during the first Hat School and had Bruce do the work here in NY.

Could not be more pleased with the quality, it comes in different colors (used red for warm and blue for cold) and it douesnt require any crimping tools etc.

http://www.seatechinc.com/

Shawn

I used a chinese generic knock-off POS like the #35 shown from Menards, and was surprised how well it worked, HOWEVER, it had a hard time negotiating the Hatteras OEM copper tubing. The OEM stuff actually MIC'd up like .015" over the standard size (1/2 or 5/8, I ferget) which had to be dressed down with a file. I used the white/clear semi hard plastic tubing.
The other issue, is that I used them for some connections on my fuel polishing system. They were fine unless you made a disconnect, then the O rings would swell and be useless. BTW... the are PROPIETARY to the fitting MFGr and not sold seperately. Now if I could only find someone who is replacing their 1000 Racors, I COULD MAKE A FULL TIME POLISHING UNIT SHAWN !!! ws

The clear TYGON allowed some visual inspection of the progress.

 

[sandspur1966]

Sorry Bill, they were sold to a different member here.

 

[q240z]

The PEX that requires a crimping tool is the cheaper, Home Despot-grade stuff. I just redid my entire fresh water system with PEX-A, which uses an expander tool and has better properties (i.e. more flexible, greater elasticity). It took longer to remove the old copper than it did to replumb. I wouldn't use anything else.

 

[captddis]

Why replace the copper if it is OK?? My Hatt is plumbed with high quality copper, when I add or replumb something I use c opper and flare fittings just like original.

 

[sandspur1966]

I chose to replace the entire system after significant freeze damage plus I wanted to convert to fresh water flush heads.

The choice was trying to run down numerous leaks and fix them in-situ or update the whole system.

I now have a system using Seatech that is much easier to repair or modify, is more freeze resistant, has a manifold with zones allowing for me to work on areas of the boat without shutting down water to the whole vessel's and unlike copper is not prone to corrosion.

Whether it lasts 30 years like the copper did... I hope to personally find out and report back here in 2040.

 

[q240z]

Why replace the copper if it is OK?? My Hatt is plumbed with high quality copper, when I add or replumb something I use c opper and flare fittings just like original.

My copper pipes were 43yo and had been spliced in several spots, a couple of which were leaking and situated in places that haven't seen daylight since shortly after the keel was laid.

Another upside of going to PEX was that the volume of water at the shower and faucets went up markedly since there aren't any hard Tees or Els in the new system.

 

[REBrueckner]

Those original cooper lines can get pretty ugly inside with crud build up from over the years...just like a home copper tubing system.

When I replaced all the sink shut off valves at home a few years ago.......the ones at the wall outlets ..I was appalled at the black build up in the 1970
1/2" copper...looked exactly like the dirty inside of the soft copper on my 1972 Hatt...

 

[rsmith]

Those original cooper lines can get pretty ugly inside with crud build up from over the years...just like a home copper tubing system.

When I replaced all the sink shut off valves at home a few years ago.......the ones at the wall outlets ..I was appalled at the black build up in the 1970
1/2" copper...looked exactly like the dirty inside of the soft copper on my 1972 Hatt...

"Those original cooper lines can get pretty ugly inside with crud build up from over the years...just like a home copper tubing system."



Maybe in your house with a well but most boats are on public water systems with filtered water and loads of clorine. Even in the house I've never seen buildup in the copper unless its near the dielectric fitting for the hot water heater.