Wards Power Boost Transformer

[Sea Horse]

This device will boost shore power by 10% if you’re at an older marina that doesn’t have 240V 50 amp service. Had an issue while staying at an older marina that had residential 220V which was 208V .This will burn up your AC compressors if not addressed. Also useful in some of the Bahamas where shore power is not always great. Think they cost around $1700.00 new. Asking $500.00 plus shipping or local pick up Flagler Beach FL. Pretty heavy so I would expect shipping to be pretty hefty cost.

 

[SeaEric]

Timing is everything. I just bought one of these from Ward's in June. It seems to me that the price was more like $2,700.

 

[SeaEric]

Timing is everything. I just bought one of these from Ward's in June. It seems to me that the price was more like $2,700.

$2,567.21 to be exact.

 

[Bob Quinn]

Interesting. At my marina I get 180 Volts. Not good. I might be interested - but I also have to check actual voltage, my meters might just be off.

How big is that thing? Do you strap in onto a dock post or mount it in your boat?

Is the boost adjustable on it with different taps on the transformer or is it just fixed at 10%?

Also were are you located?

Thanks

 

[Sea Horse]

The device is about the size of a shoe box maybe a little longer. It’s designed to be portable but it is rather heavy. I don’t think it can regulate anything. The way it was explained to me, and I’m no authority, two kinds of 220 Volt service. Residential 220V and commercial 220 V. 220 residential is actually 208 volts commercial 220 is 240 volt. Most marinas when I would plug in would show 240v on my panel but occasionally older marinas that have not had power upgraded to commercial 220 would show 208v . If your showing 208v and run your AC units you risk burning up the compressors. This device when plugged in line from shore power to the boat will boost the incoming voltage to allow you to run your AC system without hurting the compressors.
Let me repeat that I’m not a AC power expert but this is what was explained to me.
Hope this helps.

 

[Boatsb]

In North America, the terms 220V, 230V, and 240V all refer to the same system voltage level. However, 208V refers to a different system voltage level. In North America, the utility companies are required to deliver split phase 240VAC for residential use. That is two 120VAC (+/- 5 %) legs.

You had it backwards but it was a good explanation

 

[rsmith]

I used to see these used in the Bahamas back in the day. It’s a fixed boost so if you do have correct voltage your going to be over voltage by whatever the boost is set for.

 

[Bob Quinn]

o.k. thank you.
I won't be able to see what I have going on until spring.
Don't hold it for me obviously.
Thanks!

 

[Eddieclemons]

Timing is everything. I just bought one of these from Ward's in June. It seems to me that the price was more like $2,700.

I'm thinking if Eric needs one, maybe I should buy it.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

You don't need it if you already have isolation transformers because you can add a switch to your transformer to do this same function.

 

[MadHatter53]

You don't need it if you already have isolation transformers because you can add a switch to your transformer to do this same function.

How would I do that? My marina was pumping out 220-240v now I’m at 208v.

 

[Captain Ralph]

The newer, re-built and upgraded marinas are using later power utility service. Now coming into the commercial grounds as 3 phase.
From the properties service point, a WYE transformer is used and power is delivered down the docks.
The docks get very fine and pretty 115Vac and a funny looking 208Vac. This 208V should not scare anybody. Also, you are getting a full 50Amp service.

May I make some comments;

I have witnessed on board analog volt gauges reading low when dock power was correct. Every boat needs a good Fluke or like hand held meter. get one to really know what you getting from the dock.

Nothing is for free.
Please keep in mind when using transformers when voltage is converted up, available current goes down.

AC compressors will run at 200Vac, read the tag on the compressor. It needs current to start.
Low power alarms on the ole SMX panels can be calibrated away.

If you already have an isolation transformer on board, you do not need another transformer on the dock.

If you really need some boost and do not have it yet on your already installed transformer, most can be updated for it to do so.

Finally consider; when you boost 208V up to 230Vac, your also boosting 115Vac to 137Vac. Huumm

 

[Boatsb]

The newer, re-built and upgraded marinas are using later power utility service. Now coming into the commercial grounds as 3 phase.
From the properties service point, a WYE transformer is used and power is delivered down the docks.
The docks get very fine and pretty 115Vac and a funny looking 208Vac. This 208V should not scare anybody. Also, you are getting a full 50Amp service.

May I make some comments;

I have witnessed on board analog volt gauges reading low when dock power was correct. Every boat needs a good Fluke or like hand held meter. get one to really know what you getting from the dock.

Nothing is for free.
Please keep in mind when using transformers when voltage is converted up, available current goes down.

AC compressors will run at 200Vac, read the tag on the compressor. It needs current to start.
Low power alarms on the ole SMX panels can be calibrated away.

If you already have an isolation transformer on board, you do not need another transformer on the dock.

If you really need some boost and do not have it yet on your already installed transformer, most can be updated for it to do so.

Finally consider; when you boost 208V up to 230Vac, your also boosting 115Vac to 137Vac. Huumm

Wrong

The transformers take in the L1 and L2 and create the N at half their output so if they are outputting 240 you will have 120 to neutral.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

How would I do that? My marina was pumping out 220-240v now I’m at 208v.

I've posted it several times here. There are taps in your transformer. You need to swap the primary and secondary feeds and install a switch to toggle between the taps. This will give you 15% more voltage. You actually have to reverse the windings. Hatteras has the X side as the input and the H side as the output. The output side has 6 taps while the input has only 4.

Here is the deal: You will need a switch to either connect H3 and H4 together or H2 and H5 together. You will also need to make the H side the input side and the X side as the output.

With H3 and H4 tied together, you will get standard line voltage out of X1 and X4. With H2 and H5 tied together, you will get boost out of X1 and X4. This is while inputting your power from the dock through H1 and H6.

 

[q240z]

This is a mighty informative, technical discussion for the For Sale section. lol

But I might as well pile on.

I just installed isolation transformers on my Roamer. In response to a question about the 208 issue, the engineer at Bridgeport Magnetics said they used to sell these with a boost feature at a slightly additional cost. But only ~5% of customers bought the boost feature, so they stopped offering it as a standard option 2-3 years later. Some customers rig switches to switch from 208 input to 240, as others have mentioned here, so you can boost or not depending on what's available on the dock.

The engineer explained that if you've got even somewhat modern AC compressors, they're all rated for 208-230VAC and will almost always be fine. The old piston compressors I had on my previous boats needed full 240 to get running and stay there. But with modern compressors (mine are scroll), the startup spike is almost nonexistent.

If somebody has older AC systems that are still working fine, this boost transformer would be a lot cheaper than replacing ACs.

 

[Sea Horse]

You can stop talking about it now. SOLD!!!

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Any electric motor will draw more amps and create more heat with less voltage. Longevity will be affected. Since its possible to boost, I always do so if I'm plugged in to 208.

 

[q240z]

You sure motors rated for 208-230VAC +-10% will be harmed non-trivially by a mere 208v?

I mean, it's a free country and all, but...

 

[SKYCHENEY]

You sure motors rated for 208-230VAC +-10% will be harmed non-trivially by a mere 208v?

I mean, it's a free country and all, but...

I'm sure if they are rated for 208, its probably fine, but it has to create more heat.

 

[northshoreone]

If in the future anyone is looking for one, I have two very lightly used ones in my garage in MI I bought them when I had my 70 Sport Deck in a marina in FL that had the older wiring in it at the time. Work great just no need for them anymore.
Sorry Eric, I didn't know you were looking for one!