Should I replace the distributors?

[akintosyali]

I have a 1965 41DC with Chrysler 426 Street Wedge engines. (Not a Hemi, not a max wedge.) To improve my gas mileage and ensure a good fire , I am planning on replacing the old point style distributors with new, electronic distributors. The current distributors seem original, aka 40 years old. I rather replace them now then in while in water.

Few questions:
1-What is the main difference between a marine distributor and a car distributor (other than being twice the price?) Is the difference worth it?
2-Do you think I would get the same reliability of I just do a conversion kit instead?
3-What brands of distributors/ conversions kits do you like/ dislike?
4-Should I replace the coil as well?
5-For those who have done this replacement, what kind of a lift did you get in RPM or fuel economy?
Thanks,
Akin

 

[BUSTER]

Hi Akin I've done quite a few of these conversions.
1, A marine distributor is vapor proof,thus not allowing gas vapors to enter the cap,causing a fire.
2,If you distributor bushings and baseplate are tight,an internal conversion is very reliable if it is available
3,I have no partiality to any particular brand,I have found most to be very good.
4,Absolutely replace the coil and make sure you follow the special ignition timing procedures included with your updates.
5,I never noticed a great deal of difference in power performance.The real improvement is quicker starting and never worrying about burnt points.

One bit of advice.These units are much more reliable than a battery point ignition system,but ocassionally they do fail and when they do it isn't a matter of filing the points to get her running,you are stuck.Buy a spare trigger assembly and keep it on the boat. good luck Tony

 

[MikeP]

Mopar has pointless distributers available for direct replacement. They are an excellent choice and I would use THAT option rather than any other aftermarket choice.

As far as the difference between car and boat distributers, the only difference is that marine dists are ignition protected. However, with a breakerless ignition, there is no such thing since a breakerless (electronic) does not have points and, therefore, no spark within the distributer.

I had conversion kits on my Crusaders and they worked fine. I would ASSUME they would work equally well on the Mopars. (though I would buy the Mopar dist kits in this case - but they probably cost more)

Strictly speaking there is no reason to replace the coil JUST for this purpose but it's not a bad idea and I would recommend it.

There is no economy or power benefit to changing from points to breakerless (if some aftermarket seller says there is, he's trying to sell you something). The benefit is dramatically reduced maintanance. I suppose one could argue that economy could be improved over points if you ignored the points over a long period to the point (no pun intended) where the timing would change due to point wear.

 

[Finalee]

Question? Even in a breakerless distributor wouldn't there still be a spark between the rotor and cap?

 

[Boatsb]

In the 80's I removed the mercruiser electronic ignitions for the reliable old points on 20 or more boats because they failed. They have come a long way but still can be a bit fussy. as others recommended get a spare and keep it in a vacuum sealed bag so you can get home. As for the coils if they are old get new ones. Good quality with internal resistors and take out one point of failure if you still have external resistors. Just make sure you document everything so you can go back and see what may be wrong if it won't start.

 

[BUSTER]

Question? Even in a breakerless distributor wouldn't there still be a spark between the rotor and cap?

Absolutely.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

In the 80's I removed the mercruiser electronic ignitions for the reliable old points on 20 or more boats because they failed. They have come a long way but still can be a bit fussy. as others recommended get a spare and keep it in a vacuum sealed bag so you can get home. As for the coils if they are old get new ones. Good quality with internal resistors and take out one point of failure if you still have external resistors. Just make sure you document everything so you can go back and see what may be wrong if it won't start.

I too pulled the merc thunderbolts out of my 330s ( they wouldnt fire the new VDO tachs I bought either) and retrofitted HEIs. Had them recurved and made screens (aka vapor barriers) over the vents and can still buy that module on Sunday at K Mart if I need one LOL ws

 

[MikeP]

"Question? Even in a breakerless distributor wouldn't there still be a spark between the rotor and cap?"

OOPS! Of course there is, in fact, a very (hopefully) good secondary spark! So much for trying to multi task while writing a response. I better check my bank website to see what I did THERE...