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Shore Power Connections

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mmorrow
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Mmorrow

Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2015
Messages
10
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
50' CONV -Series II (1979 - 1983)
Could anyone tell me why it is necessary to have multiple shore power connections IE one port and one starboard. My port side has a 240V and 120v connection. The starboard side has on 240V
connection. My assumption is that it is done for convenience and not necessarily needed.
Am I correct. I would like to convert the system to one 240V connection and remove one of the
isolation transformers and associated wiring, breakers, meters, etc.

Thanks
Mark
 
You are correct. Each side has connections for convenience. I can't see why anyone would remove them.
 
Indeed it is nice to have shore power inlets on both sides of the boat but I think the system need to be simplified for reliability sake.

Obviosily my boat is one of the early ones and I know that in the 80s things have been improved. That said I will always remember the day I opened the port 50amp inlet and accidentally brushed against the terminals in the dark... Yep, they were fully energized from the starboard shore power...

Back 20 or 30 years ago, I can see more slips had 30 amps shore power than 50amps and how it was nice to have the option to run the bare minimum on a 30amp cord. Nowadays, you have 50amp just about everywhere so I don't see the point to have both options.

Frankly looking at t rat nest of 40 year old shore power wires running on both sides of the boat and across th genny room used to worry me. I also had a 120/240 v rotary switch outside the panel that was always warm to th touch.

I m glad I simplified all that in favor of a single new 50amp on each side the boat, going to a circuit breaker instad of these always corroding fuses (which my boat didn't even have...) and straight to the panel.
 
The OP has a 1980 50C and the electical was quite good on those.
 
I have had to use the 30 amp/120 volt cord twice in the last week on my way south. Why take it out if it is in good operating order.

Bobk
 
The reason for considering removal is as stated in a previous post.
Engine room clutter I can't stand it. It's ugly and if not necessary and for no other reason than
to allow multiple connections I don't want it in the way.

Thanks for the response and clarifing the matter for me. It is as I thought really not needed.
 
Could anyone tell me why it is necessary to have multiple shore power connections IE one port and one starboard. My port side has a 240V and 120v connection. The starboard side has on 240V
connection. My assumption is that it is done for convenience and not necessarily needed.
Am I correct. I would like to convert the system to one 240V connection and remove one of the
isolation transformers and associated wiring, breakers, meters, etc.

Thanks
Mark
Not sure how yours is set up but I don't think you should have an additional transformer, breakers or meters. I have shore power connections on both sides of the boat but the only additional equipment is the selector switch that chooses which receptacle is used. The transformers, panels etc. are still needed. I'd consider keeping the 125V connection. They're handy if you ever are in a situation where 250V is unavailable, such as when on the hard. That connection is wired to the transformer so all your 250V equipment will still run. I use mine for when I'm out for winter layup. Only way to run my charger, FW water pump and AC pumps for winterizing.
 
Only way to do it is to pull out your wiring schematics and see what goes where. If you don't have those, call Hatteras
 
I'd think twice before removing the isolation transformer, et al. It is a big convenience to connections on either side when you travel and that isolation transformer is a great big safety feature. Others are more qualified to say how it really works, but in real life I have come back to the boat on more than 1 transient dock to find the pedestal power melted, but my boat suffering no ill effects from whatever errant current caused the problem. If you price a replacement isolation transformer, you'll see it's a pricey item.
 
The center tap driven by the 30A is of little use other than to enable all of the 120v circuits. While the 250v circuits will be live, odds are you will not have enough juice to drive any of them.

However I have found it to be handy and would hang on to it.
 
The center tap driven by the 30A is of little use other than to enable all of the 120v circuits. While the 250v circuits will be live, odds are you will not have enough juice to drive any of them.

However I have found it to be handy and would hang on to it.

I have run the every 240v circuit off of one 30a 120v cord. Just usually only one circuit at a time.

I have also run one 50a and one 30a cord, putting one of the three ships service panels on the 30a and the other 2 on the 50a.

And last winter, I only had access to a single 15a plug. I ran that to a 30a cord and used it to power my 220v battery charger via the isolation transformer. It worked just fine.
 
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