Rudder shaft repair?? %^(%@

[bobk]

My mech just pulled the rudders on the 48MY and found the shaft is badly grooved at the packing and triangle plate. These are one piece casts. Any ideas on how to repair the wear on the shafts? Can weld metal be aplied and machined? New rudders will be $2000 each.

I got into this thinking I needed to change the cuttless bearings because of play in the rudders which made the packing continue leak a lot after each time the boat was run.

Bob
Chateau de Mer
1981 48MY

 

[bostonhatteras]

what is preventing you from 'moving' the stuffing box area and the thrust/support collar? you could set it up just like a prop shaft with a rubber hose clamped to the bronze housing and a new stuffing box on the other end. as for the support collar make a 1" shim and move that collar up on the shaft.

 

[fixin-to-cruise]

I had Frank & Jimmy's prop shop in Ft. Lauderdale add metal and lathe cut my bronze rudders about 7 years ago. I think it cost about $100-150 each. The fix worked.

 

[Top Shelf]

I ran into the sme issues on my 1989 48 CNV. If the metal is still in pretty good condition, not a lot of corrosion, electrolysis or porosity (sp?) it can be "clad" welded and then turned.

One of mine was in rough shape and we ended up installing (welding) new shafts in the existing rudders. In additon, Sams may have the rudders you need for less than what was quoted. Thx.

 

[bobk]

Thanks guys. Sams price was ~$2960 with a four week lead time. WaltP may have a solution. I replaced the cutlass bearings and the leaks are slowed to nil, I'll wait till spring when I can leave the boat on the hard for a while. Need to prepare for the run to Florida again. Is any one else going?

Bob

 

[captddis]

The bearings help. Part 2 of fixing the leaks is to ditch the collar and install pillow block ball bearings, the rudder will stay tight and not wiggle around. Packing will last much much longer.

 

[GOLE IV]

The shafts are easy to repair at a machine shop. Now that you have replace the cutlass baring, go all the way and install dripless seals, If you use Tides just replace the nut at the top.

There must other brands, I have mine now for two year, completely dry and forgot to about them.

 

[bobk]

The bearings help. Part 2 of fixing the leaks is to ditch the collar and install pillow block ball bearings, the rudder will stay tight and not wiggle around. Packing will last much much longer.

How about oil lite (sp?) bronze? It ought to be a whole lot better than the non-lubricated triangle plate and not incur the risk of a rusted bearing.

Bob

 

[captddis]

Bertram and Viking have used the pillow block bearings for ever, they do need to be kept greased when used on a SF that take a lot of water through the hatches. On a motoryacht like yours I can't see it as much of a problem. I have installed them on a number of Hatt Convertables that had chronic rudder leaks and the problem went away.

I think you are talking about the oilon bearings and bushings? Hatt uses the bushings in the rudder arms and tie bars, I have not tried them on the shafts, but they seem brittle and often are in pieces when the pin is pulled and the crumbled bearing falls out.

 

[Glory]

If you are forced to get new rudders, bring an old rudder to a foundry and have then ues the blade as a casting model. Will likely be less than $2,900.

GM