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roll and tip

  • Thread starter Thread starter bigbill
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bigbill

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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
58' YACHT FISHERMAN (1970 - 1981)
manufacturer say you cant roll and tip awlcraft 2000. has anybody tried it? any tips tricks or ideas ?
 
Don't do it.
 
The only AwlGrip paint that the manufacturer says you can apply by roll and tip is AwlGrip 1- the original stuff. They make brushing catalyst and thinners etc for it. You may be able to find someone to tell you how to R&T AwlCraft, but it may be an expensive experiment.
 
Look into Alexseal. They have a special additive that allows good results for roll and tip. I’ve seen the paint close up and it is fabulous. Some of the bid manufactures use it now.
 
Yes, you can roll and tip Awlcraft 2000. But, there are a few mixing hacks that painters know to get some pretty good results and it isn't supported for brush application by the manufacturer. Most of the time you will end up wet sanding and polishing to get a good finish though. Thats a lot of work on a big ol' Hatt.

Definitely look into Alexseal. Great product excellent support. Roll it (but don't tip it!) with the brush additive, compound it whenever you want and easily correct any sags or drips. Been using Alexseal for 10+ years. It was created by the same guy that formulated the original Awlgrip.

I believe all new Hatteras builds come with an Alexseal finish. Most other manufacturers too.
 
That's right. New Hatteras yachts are painted w Alexseal.
 
A friend with a HATTERAS sprayed alexseal. It had lots or orange peel so he has to sand then polish. The areas he has polished look fabulous. There are also areas he has had to patch and repair. He rolled those areas. I think he wished he would have rolled the entire boat. It does look great.
 
Pretty sure this depends on your personality more than anything. People roll & tip lots of stuff regardless of whether you're supposed to or not, but you can usually tell the difference. That mirror finish you get with awlgrip only comes from spraying.

The exception is that new alexseal stuff, my friend did his 47 Commander with it. He used regular paint brushes and rollers from Lowes, and it looks good. Not like a professional spray job, but way better than you would expect.
 
I need to roll and tip the house on this 52C. It's the only part needing fresh paint since it was sprayed with clear coat many years ago....and it's all peeling off. So, I'll sand it all down then roll it starting from the big front panel first, and then around to the windows. Fortunately, the hull and bridge were spared from the clear coat.

I've rolled several different boats. Sometimes, you're better off not tipping it with a brush. The real challenge is getting the paint thin enough so the doubled-up layer at the end of each roller stroke flows-out and doesn't show. And if it's warm out or you're taking longer than expected, the paint starts thickening and you can really start piling-up paint on those roller overlaps. That's when you try to knock it down with the horsehair brush. If you can see those lines when dry, you have to polish it all back down and it's just a long, hard job.

I'll roll this house because it's mostly windows and a pretty easy job. If I ever have to do a flybridge or hull again, I'll take it to have it sprayed.
 
I need to roll and tip the house on this 52C. It's the only part needing fresh paint since it was sprayed with clear coat many years ago....and it's all peeling off. So, I'll sand it all down then roll it starting from the big front panel first, and then around to the windows. Fortunately, the hull and bridge were spared from the clear coat.

I've rolled several different boats. Sometimes, you're better off not tipping it with a brush. The real challenge is getting the paint thin enough so the doubled-up layer at the end of each roller stroke flows-out and doesn't show. And if it's warm out or you're taking longer than expected, the paint starts thickening and you can really start piling-up paint on those roller overlaps. That's when you try to knock it down with the horsehair brush. If you can see those lines when dry, you have to polish it all back down and it's just a long, hard job.

I'll roll this house because it's mostly windows and a pretty easy job. If I ever have to do a flybridge or hull again, I'll take it to have it sprayed.

Do it early enough in the day to kick before the evening bugs turn it into non-skid!
 
Do it early enough in the day to kick before the evening bugs turn it into non-skid!

Those no-see-ums love the paint for some reason!

AND if in FL, do it in the winter. The skies were clear one Summer day when rolling a foredeck. It started sprinkling from no clouds...couldn't believe it. We all know how water is heavier than oil. Those little sprinkles quickly went right under the paint. It was a nightmare.
 
I rolled and tipped my Hatteras a few years back, from rubrail up to bridge. I did it in sections going around, in a covered slip. It took me about 6-8 weeks, I think, working my way around. You can easily see where I started and where I finished, because the quality of my work improved as I went around. It IS possible to get very good quality, close to spraying, after some experience. The paint went a great dear further, as well- rolling uses about 1/3 the paint that spraying does.
 
Buy far the best way to do it is one guy rolling a small area and a second guy tipping and if possible a third person sighting the paint fit any dry spots or sags because you need to address those immediately with Awlgrip before it starts to dry.
 
i bought the alexseal with brushing reducer and roll and tip additive. kind of an expensive test but we will see how it works.
 
What color did you go with Bill?
 
Check out the youtube videos of "Boatworks Today". He tested Alexseal and only rolled it and it looks like it was shot on! The key is the proper amount of "reducer" (actually just thinner). It will flash off quickly so you should only mix a small amount of paint at a time. The hotter it is the quicker it flashes off.
 
Invest in a viscousty cup. You will get consistent reductions.
 
Invest in a viscousty cup. You will get consistent reductions.

Excellent advice.

I was a doubter of the roll-and-tip until I had a very experienced guy do my transom. It is indistinguishable from spray application.

DAN
 

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