Replacing hose on stuffing box to shaft tube 36C

[whaler23]

Hoses are due for replacement on inspection of my 74 36C. Is the only way to replace these two pieces to haul and remove shafts? Both hoses are substantial in thickness about 9" long and double clamped on the stuffing box and the shaft tube. Second question is it appears the orig shaft tubes are bronze, are in good condition and appear bright and clean and protrude through into the engine compartment space about 3", which is just enough for the current hoses to be double clamped but not much more. The shaft is aligned nicely in the middle of the tubes so it doesn't appear there is a wear issue at that location. Stuffing boxes will be repacked with new packing material which is my last question, is it four turns around the shaft for my 1.5? shafts? Do you cut four pieces are wrap a continuous piece four times?

 

[DCMY #92]

Hauling is best. You shouldn't have to remove the shafts completely unless you have other reasons to do so. Just remove the wheels so you can slide the shafts aft enough to get the hose off/on. Be sure to check the cutlass bearings for wear while you're at it. There should be no side to side or up down movement of the shaft in the bearing. The bearings can be changed without removing the shaft, but it's allot easier with the shaft out. When the yard sets the boat on the hard it will have to be blocked higher than normal to get the shafts out. If the yard is dirt it's sometimes better to dig a couple of trenches behind the boat rather than block her high.

If your shafts are painted you will have to remove the paint before you can remove the shafts. The paint won't pass through the cutlass bearings if they are in good shape. But don't abrasive blast the paint off. The blasted surface finish will make it hard to move the shaft through the cutlass bearings. It's better to remove the shaft paint with an emory cloth belt used like a strop. Polish the shaft with fine emory cloth after the paint is off.

You want as many separate packing rings as it takes to fill the stuffing box to the right height. Wrap the packing around the shaft and cut each ring to exact length. Install them with the joints alternating 180 degrees from each other. When you cut the packing rings don't score the shaft with your knife.

 

[rsmith]

The hoses just hold the glands from spinning. Their pretty thick and hard to come by the originals which were steam rated super heavy duty. DO NOT put the packing in in a continuous spiral!!! The shaft will grab it like a Chinese finger puzzle and burn up the gland. Cut rings with the ends on a 45 and stagger the cuts

 

[rsmith]

" Hauling is best " ??? WTF ? How do you replace the gland to shaft log hoses in the water???
I'm pretty brave, I even changed out my 3" raw water sea cocks in the water but I wouldn't attempt the gland hoses.

 

[Boatsb]

" Hauling is best " ??? WTF ? How do you replace the gland to shaft log hoses in the water???
I'm pretty brave, I even changed out my 3" raw water sea cocks in the water but I wouldn't attempt the gland hoses.

Chicken whats wrong with a 3 inch hole in the bottom. Excersise the bilge pumps

 

[Boatsb]

Seriously now. Pull both shafts while your at it change the cutlass bearings as they are about $100_200 a piece depending on size. Oabor is already 3/4 being done anyway. And dont try all this in the water.

 

[jim rosenthal]

Agree. Have all this done with the boat out of the water.

Don't you have to split the shaft coupling, or back the shaft out of the coupling, to change the shaft log hose? I thought so, anyway.

There are two bearings per shaft on this boat, one in the stern tube, the other in the strut. I am pretty certain they are the same bearing. If any of them are worn, replace them.

He's right about the hose. Use the best you can get. Vetus, if it is available.

 

[DCMY #92]

" Hauling is best " ??? WTF ? How do you replace the gland to shaft log hoses in the water???

It's possible to replace the hose in the water if necessary. The shaft doesn't need to be completely removed from the tube. Only pulled back enough to get the hose off/on. BUT, you must be absolutely sure the shaft is controlled so it can't just keep moving aft. The leak when the shaft is in the tube is not that much worse than when the packing gland is open during repacking. The big pain is removing the wheel in the water. I doubt the shaft can be pushed back far enough with the wheel on.

I'm not saying this method should be attempted if a haul out is possible. But in a pinch it can be done.