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Removing the laminate from the formica

  • Thread starter Thread starter GalaxyGirl
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GalaxyGirl

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Jan 31, 2013
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
63' MOTOR YACHT (1985 - 1987)
Has anyone taken the top layer of laminate off their formica in an attempt to tile or install another finish material? I have never attempted to remove a laminate, I usually just rip out everything out, but I don't think that I'm going to want to remove the original vanity. It doesn't seem worth the effort.
I saw that someone here (I forget who) tiled right over the formica, but I would be afraid that the surface is too smooth and that it would end up separating over time.

If you have successfully removed the top layer, is it particle board or plywood underneath? How did you remove it? Was it difficult? How did your project turn out?
 
We had a countertop shop build a Corian top like a shoe box lid and just siliconed it to the original top. Cut sink opening larger to fit built in Corian sinks in heads and under mounted original stainless sink in galley.
 
usually the counters are fiberglassed permanently into the hull . the best is to overlay corian 1/2 " or if you can get the laminate off the orig( i did with a vibrating saw and small chunks , then solvent to get the glue off. i used rustoleum countertop paint on the light traffic areas and corian in the galley and heads .
 
It's usually formica over a plywood substrate. You can remove the formica after you warm it up pretty well with a heat gun. Not sure where that is going to get you. Unless you go with a solid surface material you will still have to seal the plywood. Corian or granite either one could be glued to the formica after you rough it up.
 
I made overlays out of 1/4" Corian. It is lighter than 1/2" and has worked out well for the last 3 years. No problems.
 
I have remover formica with a clothes iron and paint scraper
Cheers Stewart
 
You can prep the surface starting with acetone or the like to remove any wax or oily dirt, then bear down with 40 grit silicon carbide or other sharp hard paper on a machine to scratch the surface deeply.

Bobk
 
Like Bob said you can go over it after cleaning and rough it up if its holding well.

Or Heat gun and a multimaster with the chisel attachment get under one edge and work it off.
 
ive had luck using a heat gun
 
Thanks for the help everyone. I'm going to go with corian overlay, as suggested for the galley and vanities. Is that more expensive than regular solid corian?

For the walls I'm going to rough it up and use peel and stick tile.
 
Shouldn't be any more expensive. Just make sure you get a good installer who can template properly. Nothing is square or straight on a boat. In my case, I used 1/2" Corian which I believe to be standard thickness.
 
Last edited:
Like BOBK said, I roughed up my counter tops in the galley of my 52C with heavy grit sandpaper and put down 12"X12" granite tiles. Drove the boat south 3 years ago through 8 footers off of Jersey and the tiles haven't moved a bit in 4 years. Got the granite on sale at lowes and did the galley counters for under $100.
 
i used heat gun , a vibrator tool with chisel blade and gasoline / acetone to soften the glue with plastic scraper and rags.
then rustoleum countertop painted other than high traffic surfaces where i used corian.
 

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