Need help with re-chroming some pieces.

[akintosyali]

The chrome on some of the stanchion bases is lost, and some of the nav light houses are loosing their chrome as well. What is the best way of taking care of this? Order replacement or have someone re-chrome it? Does anyone have any cost estimates for me?

 

[REBrueckner]

Since you have to remove any pieces to have them rechromed, I'd suggest you consider replacing what you can with stainless. Rechroming is generally quite expensive and unless you get a well regarded place to do it, it may last only a few years. Buying a new piece may be more expensive, or not, I'm not sure, but stainless is stronger and more permanent...and it may be LESS expensive....Let us know if you get any factual price data....

 

[Paul45c]

Unless there's something really special about the nav lights, I'd replace for sure. Chances are good that they're a casting (what the chroming guys call "pot metal") and you can't rechrome that. FYI, just about anything Perko makes, for instance, is pot metal. I returned from my local plating shop with egg on my face after having a whole boxload of old Perko hardware I was trying to replate.

The stanchion bases will be forged for sure, so have at it. I really can't tell you a realistic expectation on having those redone -- shape, size, and ease of polishing the surface have the most to do with costing. If this helps at all, my shop charged $22 for a full-sized Lee's rodholder, but I've had much smaller pieces cost all of that and then some depending on the intricacy.

 

[jim rosenthal]

Anything you can replace with a new identical item, do that. It is not worth rechroming if you can buy a new one exactly like it from the same manufacturer.

The problem is that for an older Hatteras, especially a boat from the 60s or 70s, virtually none of these items are still available. For example, the stanchion bases, which are bronze, will need to be rechromed. It is very hard to find shops that do work that is good enough for the marine environment.

I would probably rechrome the stanchion bases and other rail hardware. You may have to drill and retap the setscrew holes out to the next size- I did this a few years ago and they are holding up pretty well. As far as the nav lights, if they are bronze, I would keep them and rechrome them. It is also very hard to find hardware that looks right on these boats, so I would try to keep as much of what you have as you can.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Hey Akin-- give George Neid a call at STAR PLATING 4009 w. Ogden ave chicago 312(773?) 521 9000 4a.m. - 11:00a.m. only and tell him I sent you. We go way back and he has done a ton of stuff on my Roamer. Bill Stephan

 

[67hat34c]

several forum members used Hanlon plating out of Virginia, they have a web site. I used them for the original fuel fills and one hawse pipe. i cleaned these parts down, sanded smooth and then put high polish on the wheel before i sent them, all they had to do is clean and plate, very cheep that way so if you can prep the pieces first.

 

[SeaSwick]

Hey Akin --

I did a gut rehab on a SeaCraft SeaMaster 27, 20+ years ago (I think I'm gonna cry...) and found rechroming to be cost effective & a HUGE time/work saver!! Everything bolted back on to their original locations/holes with no sweat! I need some done now & looked for that shop, but they are long gone... victim of some tree-hugger-ing, toxic waste-o-phobes I guess! (it is a nasty process).

But finding a quality plater is essential, even if it means SHIPPING the parts to them. 30 years ago (Ow! My knees) I sent some bumpers from a '69 Vette to Buffalo, NY (the car was on Cape Cod & I was in NJ, but I digress...) for plating & they came back looking like they were wet, the job was that incredible!

Check with car clubs and auto resto-shops (NOT body shops that do insurance/collision repairs) for their sources.

Good platers can rechrome without changing the dimensions of the piece, so screws etc will fit without messing with the new chrome. If you mention that to them, they'll suddenly sit up straighter in their seat & pay closer attention to you.

Specify "Show Quality Chrome," it'll look great & last forever!

 

[yachtsmanbill]

DEMAND triple plating -- copper, nickel, and then chrome. The boat mfrs used a lot of chrome on the brass / bronze and hence the stuff bleeds green patina through the chrome--its porous! And dont waste your time prepping it. The shop has to profile it with no polish residue anyway, unless you want to play and remove paint etc. ws