NAIAD stabilizer service

[Capt Paul]

My boat is on the hard in the final stages of a paint job and being put back together. I will soon be ready to hit the water and need to have my stabilizers serviced. Aqua Yacht Harbor, who is doing the work, says they can do the service but don't have the tool to remove the fins. I have contacted NAIAD to get a quote for everything I need to have this done. Here is what they sent. 4 lower shaft seals $1182 seal retainer $428 screw seal retainer $202 fin plug $228 fin bolt Belleville washer $2722 fin bolt $452Manual removal tool $386Does this list look correct? Is it necessary to replace the fin bolts for $452 or the washers for $272?Can these parts be obtained cheaper somewhere else?It doesn't appear there is anyone in the area to do this service. I have spoken to Dog River Marina several times and they said they would send someone up but I could never get them to get back to me with a time or price so it appears the best thing is to buy it all myself and have Aqua do it. Thoughts?

 

[Glory]

If you can get the spec for the bolt and your sure it isn't stretched, I use it again!!

 

[Glory]

I would doubt it is stretched, it's a robust bolt.

 

[cb48lrc]

FYI, we had ours resealed last year, by a Naid tech total cost $650.

 

[Boatsb]

Are the seals $1200.00 each or for all 4?

What kind of Bolt for $2,200.00?

I think theres a decimal running loose.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

You need the 4 seals and maybe two new retainer rings and, of course, the tool. The retainer rings are held on by 5(i think) screws. IF the screws come out okay and you don't bend up the retainer ring getting it off, then all you need is the seals. The bolt and washers and plug should all be fine.

But that pricing is way high compared to what I paid last time. What Naiad location did you call and who did you talk to?

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Are the seals $1200.00 each or for all 4?

What kind of Bolt for $2,200.00?

I think theres a decimal running loose.

I figured it out. He forgot the decimal points. Seals 11 dollars and 82 cents, etc.

 

[oscarvan]

I figured it out. He forgot the decimal points. Seals 11 dollars and 82 cents, etc.

I would hope so.... those are Space Shuttle prices!

 

[Capt Paul]

No not decimal it was a spacing problem. Let me try again. Lower shaft seal $118Seal retainer $42Retainer screws $20Plug $22Fin bolt washer $272Bolt $452The quantity was added to the last price so here I left out the quantities. Sounds like I can do without the bolts. That'll save me $452. The problem I have is there is no tech nearby. I am waiting to hear back about pricing from Dog River but may be cheaper to just buy the tool and have Aqua do it.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

No not decimal it was a spacing problem. Let me try again. Lower shaft seal $118Seal retainer $42Retainer screws $20Plug $22Fin bolt washer $272Bolt $452The quantity was added to the last price so here I left out the quantities. Sounds like I can do without the bolts. That'll save me $452. The problem I have is there is no tech nearby. I am waiting to hear back about pricing from Dog River but may be cheaper to just buy the tool and have Aqua do it.

Do it yourself. Its not that hard. You will need a big socket, extension, 3/4" breaker bar and a big torque wrench to reinstall.
1) put in centering pins
2) draw a line with a sharpie around the fin on the hull so you know where to reinstall
3) pull out plug on bottom of fin
4) remove bolt and washer
5) screw in jack bolt removal tool and tighen to remove fin
6) remove screws from retaining ring and pull down ring
7) pick out the two old seals and clean up all of the caulk
8) caulk around new seals as you slide them in
9) reinstall retaining ring
10) reinstall fin and tighten bolt to spec
11) Pop the plug back into the bottom of the fin and go tackle the other side.

 

[Glory]

I have Gyro Gale, when I used to get my parts from Gyro Gale the maintenance was much more expensive. It sounds to like it would be a benefit to have the puller. Then go to work. The staff at Naiad are helpful!

 

[Capt Paul]

Thanks for all the comments. I think i'll watch it once and do it myself next time. If I can find a yard that will let me. Will that manual tool work ok?

 

[tjshuler]

Do it yourself. Its not that hard. You will need a big socket, extension, 3/4" breaker bar and a big torque wrench to reinstall.
1) put in centering pins
2) draw a line with a sharpie around the fin on the hull so you know where to reinstall
3) pull out plug on bottom of fin
4) remove bolt and washer
5) screw in jack bolt removal tool and tighen to remove fin
6) remove screws from retaining ring and pull down ring
7) pick out the two old seals and clean up all of the caulk
8) caulk around new seals as you slide them in
9) reinstall retaining ring
10) reinstall fin and tighten bolt to spec
11) Pop the plug back into the bottom of the fin and go tackle the other side.

What kind of caulk do you recommend? I have all of the parts and the jack screw. Will probably procrastinate until just before spring launch for this project.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

What kind of caulk do you recommend? I have all of the parts and the jack screw. Will probably procrastinate until just before spring launch for this project.

The manual says to use 5200 and I have used that in the past. Its just too difficult to clean up though. So, the last time I just used clear silicone (recommended by someone else who has done this many times).

You are just sealing the outside edge of the seals and the retaining ring. I thing Naiad recommended 5200 because they wanted to make sure that the seals did not move or twist with the movement of the shaft but that is apparently not necessary.

 

[Capt Paul]

Wow. 5200 is intended to be permanent. I'm not using that. Not using pure silicone underwater either. There are other alternatives made for use under the waterline.

 

[Finalee]

The pieces come apart via jack screws or bolts. 5200 breaks loose easily when using the proper disassembly methods.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Wow. 5200 is intended to be permanent. I'm not using that. Not using pure silicone underwater either. There are other alternatives made for use under the waterline.

You speak as if you know, but I gather that you have never actually performed this task. I have and I will tell you that either 5200 or silicone both have worked just fine. The caulk is only holding the outside edge of the seal. It just takes more effort to dig out and clean up when removing the seals that were installed with the 5200.

 

[Capt Paul]

No I have never performed this task on my own but I do know that 5200 is recommended for permanent bonding and is more of an adhesive than a sealant. I don't use it much other than structural bonding because I have had surfaces delaminate and fail before the joint upon attempted removal. 3M claims it is not removable. I typically would not consider silicone for below waterline use. It seems these two options are at opposite ends of the spectrum when it comes to strength of bond. Further, silicone leaves a residue which can keep any future sealant from adhering. So no, I have not performed stabilizer maintenance on my own but am familiar with adhesives and sealants and just would not choose to use either of these myself for this application. However, I appreciate all of the recommendations and understand others may make choices different from me and be happy with the results.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

No I have never performed this task on my own but I do know that 5200 is recommended for permanent bonding and is more of an adhesive than a sealant. I don't use it much other than structural bonding because I have had surfaces delaminate and fail before the joint upon attempted removal. 3M claims it is not removable. I typically would not consider silicone for below waterline use. It seems these two options are at opposite ends of the spectrum when it comes to strength of bond. Further, silicone leaves a residue which can keep any future sealant from adhering. So no, I have not performed stabilizer maintenance on my own but am familiar with adhesives and sealants and just would not choose to use either of these myself for this application. However, I appreciate all of the recommendations and understand others may make choices different from me and be happy with the results.

Read the manual. It calls for 5200 on the seals. I gave you another option because I have seen silicone used and we did replace with same. No problems with either but you can use what you want.

Here is a link to the thread of the first time I replaced seals (with pics). On this one I followed the manual. I dug out the 5200 and replaced with new 5200.

http://www.samsmarine.com/forums/sh...d-lower-seal-replacement&highlight=stabilizer