Marine Sanitation Hose

[SKYCHENEY]

When I change my heads this winter, I will also be replacing the old 3/4" hose from the GalleyMaid pumps with new 1 1/2" hose for the Atlantes.
What is the best hose to use? Is the Sealand Odorsafe hose the same stuff as the AVS96 from Australia? If not, which is better?

 

[Liquid Asset]

I used a PVC based sanitation hose when I redid my heads last month. I think it was called "Premium PVC sanitation hose". I can get the brand tomorow. I still have some left at the boat and it is in the box.

 

[UNIQUE_NAME]

when i installed my vacuflush i used as much pvc piping (home depot) as i could. the only place i used hose was for the tank/head and vacuum connections. sealand sells a hose adapter that fits into a standard pvc collar
that enables you to connect the hose and the pvc pipe. the hose i used was the sealand 5 year type. this was actually suggested to me by the sealand rep. i have installed 3 this way with out any problems, 1 on an old boat 2 on my current.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

I will not be able to use much solid pvc on the 53MY. In fact, it is going to be hard enough getting the flexible hose from the master head all the way to the fwd tank. But, what I would like to know is if anyone has experience with any of the products out there. For example: How flexible is the hose? What is the best hose to reduce odor? Is there ONE preferred "premium" hose or are they all about the same?

 

[UNIQUE_NAME]

i have not used any other hose other than sealand odorsafe, so i can't give you a comparison. i will say i haven't had any problems with it and would endorse it.
as far as usability, vacuflush recommends 12 inch bends for the hose but the hose will accomodate smaller bends.
i'm not familiar with the plumbing chases available to you on a 53. do you have access to the bulkheads for the hose run?

 

[Liquid Asset]

I would say that the hose is not very flexible. Most sanitation hose that I have seen will not acomadate much more that a 10 inch bend. If it does, it is not very thick. THe stuff that I took out stunk like crap and was thin. Some of it looked to have been replaced too.

 

[jim rosenthal]

I have used the white stuff from Trident, I think it is, which is also sold by Boats R US and WM. No problems so far. The biggest problem is getting it onto the hose barbs- I can't push it on unless I heat it or dip it in hot water to soften it up. You have to be careful how much you heat it because it permanently damages it. I am going to do some of my head plumbing over this winter. The white hose doesn't seem to leak and seems to stay in good shape. I think a key part of all this is flushing the heads very often whether or not you are using them.
I also used PVC pipe to plumb in my LectraSan. So far, so good. Seems to be holding up as of now.

 

[Liquid Asset]

To get the hose on the barb lubricate it with 409 or some other soap and hit the barb with a deadblow hammer. Normally works for me.

 

[Genesis]

I've had several people tell me NOT to use Sch40 PVC, claiming there is a brittleness issue that will eventually lead to fractures in bad places.

I'm not sure I buy that argument......

 

[SKYCHENEY]

I will have to cut some access holes in my floor to get the old hose out (3/4") and the new stuff in (1 1/2"). I will also have to cut sume larger holes thru the bulkheads, so it will not be an easy job. I like the sound of the white (vacuflush) hose since it is supposed to really deter odor permiation, but I just wondered how easy it was to work with. Thanks for the replies. Now all I have to do is figure out how much I will need and shop for a decent price.

 

[Genesis]

The Sealand Odorsafe hose is a royal B|TCH to work with. It is extremely stiff and difficult to do anything with, and that includes getting fittings all the way on it.

Oh, its also expensive.

With that said, as hose goes, its the only sane choice, and the only one that doesn't permeate in a very short period of time.

 

[UNIQUE_NAME]

if you are cutting access hatches i would think you would want whatever you put in there to be permanent. (because you NEVER want replace what you put in there) i still say if you can run hose there, you can get pipe there. (again within reason, no crazy bends) as genisis pointed out, the stuff aint cheap. pvc is forever and more cost effective. i used about 6' of hose for 2 toilets. the only hose connections i used were:
toilet to pcv
pcv to vacuum generator
vacuum generator to pvc
pvc to tank.

another reason to consider piping is the ability to plumb clean-outs in strategic places. if you ever have a clog, you will be thankful you did. as difficult as it is getting that hose on a fitting, try getting one off with a hose full of *&^%.
if you still can't use pipe from most of the system, try to use it where the waste might sit. (lowest point of the system) this is where the hose is most likely to permeate later on.

good luck.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

I like the rigid pvc option from the standpoint of cost and ease of use, but I am concerned about the use of rigid pipe in a boat the flexes and vibrates. If it is the best product for this purpose, then why don't new builders use it? I would like to try it, but as was said before, it is a permanent install that I don't want to do twice. So....I may just stick with a tried and true product even if it costs more and is more difficult to work with.

Short runs of rigid pipe seem okay, but longer runs that have multiple fittings are of more concern.

Now, is the Aussie hose that is distributed by an Ohio company the same stuff as the vacuflush hose or is it just a similar product? I haven't figured that out yet, but it looks and sounds almost identical.

 

[Genesis]

PVC is NOT "rigid". More like "semi-rigid".

Here's a story for you. Ivan came and trashed our yard. I had solar pool panels in the yard, connected to the system with PVC. A lot of PVC.

The surge and debris tore the panels to pieces, and the connections failed on the panels. The PVC was bent and twisted to hell, but did NOT fracture.

Anywhere.

It had been baking in the sun for three years at that point as well - so whatever UV damage could be taken, it had been taken.

That went a long way towards resolving my doubts about PVC.

PVC DOES require proper handling with joints (primer and proper cementing use) or the joints WILL fail under stress.

If you boat in subzero temperatures I'd be more concerned due to possible cold fractures, but how many of us do that?

I'm very, very tempted to use PVC on my system..... and may when I replace it (its due this winter.)

Just not sure which is the right choice..... what I do know is that having "$@@" in my bilge due to a failed sanitary system is NOT my idea of a good time.

 

[UNIQUE_NAME]

current boat has 3 years on plumbing, prior 34 hat had 5 years on plumbing, same setup, pvc and minimal hose. i never had to change a hose. that may also be because the waste never pools at the connections. the sealand tech was the one who told me to use the pvc otherwise i never would have .

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Okay, now I'm really tempted to use PVC where possible, but I still haven't got an answer as to why you don't see it in OEM installs. Also, what happens when you go to sell the boat and the surveyor convinces the buyer that it has to come out and be replaced with marine sanitation hose?

 

[captddis]

PVC pipe is very common in boats and works well. If you look close you will find some in your Hatt. On my 46 It came from the factory with pvc running from the heads into the ER where the hoses connect. I do not think it could be broken in a boat unless part of the broke or twisted violently. The critical part is to make the joints properly. FWIW I only use the sanitation hose on Vacuflush systems. It is a pain to use if you do not use the fittings made for it. And has a habit of seeping on standard fittings, plus you have to heat it to install then you have to cut it off. I use the HD air and water hose for everything else. Stays pliable and does not smell. Dave

 

[Nonchalant1]

Hatteras uses PVC on their new multi-million dollar boats for the holding tank pumpout fittings. Use the heavier grade (schedule 60 instead of schedule 40) type PVC.

Doug

 

[MikeP]

The downside to PVC on boats is simply the ability to fit it. Much of the time, you can't get a decent sized length of PVC where you want it. If that wasn't a problem, it would seem to me that PVC would be preferable as long as wherever it was connected to a hard point - like a seacock - there was a length of hose between the PVC and the seacock.

However, if I had to choose between a 30 ft piece of hose and several shorter sections of PVC joined together to make the turns, etc., I'd use the hose.

As Genesis pointed out, the cold weather issue is worth at least exploring. I have had outdoor PVC water sprinkler lines crack/separate on occasion due to the cold. An unheated boat in the winter will be just as cold...

 

[oldhatt]

I'm pretty sure that PVC pipe and related fittings is available in schedule 80 also. It is very durable. If cleaned and glued properly it should outlast even these Hatteras.
Safe Boating,
Sam