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Life raft advise

  • Thread starter Thread starter Gina Marie
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Gina Marie

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Apr 14, 2005
Messages
277
Hatteras Model
45' CONVERTIBLE-Series II (1984 - 1992)
I have a 45c and my boating habits are 20 to 50 miles offshore. I live in south florida. Normally have 4 to 6 people onboard. Thanks Tom /Gina Marie.
 
Many rafts will fit your purpose. Here's a good website to read about choices and see new and used types. http://www.lrse.com/products.cfm?cat=001 Find one or two you like there and the Google the internet for lower prices. The big decision is whether you have a space for the automatic release cannister type or if you want valise. Obviously, the cannister provides the most safety because it can't go down with the boat, and it doesn't take up any interior storage space. The "coastal ones don't have all the emergency longer term survival supplies and are different standards, but if you have an EPIRB (you should), and particularly a GPIRB (built in GPS) you'll be found pretty quickly. Stick with the common names so the inspection and recertification options are more readily available. Some are Avon, Switlik, Winslow, Zodiac.

Also, remember if you're considering a used liferaft or EPIRB that liferaft inspections cost about $500-$800 and EPIRB batteries, installed, cost about $200-$350. It's probably worth it to go with new equipment or at least know when inspections are due.

Doug
 
I just recently purchased a new life raft after my old Avon life raft was condemed. I purchased a Revere life raft. They are highly recomended by that inflatable shops and I purchased mine from suncoast inflatables. But many people carry the Revere brand. They are resonably priced.
 
You want my recommendation? One word: Winslow.

Not cheap, but you get what you pay for.

Consider carefully whether you really need one. A 406 EPIRB, especially one with an integral GPS, is WAY more important unless there is a thermal issue in the waters you are operating in. BTW, "thermal issue" means temperatures under 80F - above that hypothermia isn't the issue for the length of time it takes for an EPIRB to get someone to you, assuming you have PFDs on.

IF you boat in waters where there is a thermal issue you need BOTH a raft AND, depending on the water temps, you may need exposure suits. For water temps under 70F you want BOTH on board. The raft is worth a big fat zero if you can't get into it because you are too hypothemic to climb in.

Also consider that a dink makes a dandy raft for short periods of time if the reason you go down is not hideous sea conditions (e.g. you burn or there's a mechanical issue with the boat that sinks you.) If you are out when you shouldn't be and go down, then a dink doesn't do you much good (its better than nothing, but not by much!)

In short, give careful thought to WHY you need a raft. If you really DO need one, then you're buying true survival gear - you can buy cheap or you can buy good, but if you really need it, cheap is going to look awful stupid as the boat slips under the waves.
 
I have been selling Winslow Liferafts for 20 years. As a Hatteras owner I can honestly say that you would be very pleased with a Winslow. they are very well made, very light, and are available in soft or hard pack. I would recommend that you get a soft pack and keep it inside away from rain and salt water intrusion. If you don't go way offshore you can save both money and weight by getting a "MAC" version. These rafts were originally designed for great lakes sailors but work well. The main difference is lack of a canopy which makes the raft much easier to get into. They are very good and last a long time.
 
Maynard,

Is your advice because the cannister versions are somehow damaged by saltwater intrusion, and it's therefore worth it to not have the hydrostatic release?

Doug
 
Thank you all for the advise. Since I got into the 45C the rule of thumb has been you get what you pay for. Can you tell me the recommended size I usually travel with up to six do I then buy a six or an eight or ten. I have a current life raft on my bow no cannister. You are indicating that I store the raft below?????? Should I have not have it either on the bow or under my tower floor. Thanks for the help the current raft has been condemed
 
I would get at least an eight; if you need to use it, you will need the "extra" room. Badly.
Powerboat Reports did a comprehensive survey on rafts a few years back. The Winslows won hands down. They were way better than anything else. one index of their quality is that as far as I know they only repack them at their factory in FL; that way they know what is going in them and how well the job is done. They are the same price as the rest, and well worth it. You can perhaps still get a boat show price, ask them.
 
I would never place an critical equipment as a life raft inside the house unless it is for winter boat layup. I would get whatever brand you like but whatever you do, mount it outside with a hydrostatic release. As for salt water intusion well, that is why they are inspected at certain period and taged. My raft I mounted up on the flybrigde with a hydrostatic release and a nice raft mount sold with the raft, a Zodiak, I see it all the time when running the boat cause, it is outboard of my chair. James.
 
A few other points to consider: If you tell your ins.co.about it , they will insist on yearly inspections - cost $500 and up depending on what they find and replace. Also if you buy used remember they have a life of about 12 yrs. after that the inspection co. won't certify them. Also, boat U.S. used to have a program to rent them and epirbs for a week or so, works out a lot cheaper if you only occasionally travel far.
 
I never liked to keep the raft outside because of water intrusion and UV on the cannister. I don't think there is a need for a hydrostatic release as boats almost never sink rapidly except in the case of an explosion. A friend had his sailboat repaired and the repair let go in 40 knots of wind on lake Huron. Typical deal; middle of the night etc. He said it took 20 minutes to sink below the surface in 600 feet of cold water. His raft worked great. They do inflate quite slowly.
 
I’d want a hydrostatic release should the boat swamp. If capsized, it would be difficult to go inside to get the raft... :eek:
 
Good point, Traveller but I have seen too many liferafts that sat for years on the deck of a boat. These were exposed to all the worst nature had to offer. Would that raft work if needed? A modern 8 man liferaft should weigh about 40 lbs.in a soft pack. Winslow offers an option to shrink wrap the raft inside the valise. With this option the recommended service intervals go from 1 year to 3 years. I understand that there are many considerations. remember though; the worst thing you can have aboard a boat for safety is a liferaft that won't work. In the great lakes we try to take very good care of our liferafts!
 

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