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How Do I clean a K&N filter?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Captned
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Captned

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Apr 17, 2005
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
46' CONVERTIBLE-Series I (1974 - 1981)
Howdy all,

I installed Racor CCV systems awhile back and used the K&N filter setup. I was just outboard on my Starboard engine and noticed I have a exhaust leak at the exhaust side of my turbo. My K&N filter has some black soot on the top of it, otherwise it is fairly clean. Whats the best way to clean it? Hmmmm,,,, but now I have to go back down and pull the blankets and see whats up.

Thanks in advance,

Captned
MBMM
78 46 CON
 
K&N makes a cleaning kit for these filters which includes a mild detergent (spray) and a light oil for re-oiling the cleaned filter. It's not terribly expensive and I imagine someone on this forum can offer some good (and cheaper) alternatives to the products in K&N's kit.
 
Fill the garage/laundry room sink with hot water mixed with Tide detergent.
Swish like hell, and rinse with LOTS of cool water, rinsing from the inside out. Make sure you get all the detergent out.
Repeat.
Shake the excess water out (DO NOT blow with an air hose!) and let air dry.
Re oil (not too much, it'll wet out after a few hours, wait at least that long to decide you didn't apply enough) and install. K+N's oil seems to work best.
 
The cleaning kit is available from your favorite West Marine store. Some of the stores carry it in stock but if not, they can order it.

This kit is packaged specifically for cleaning the Walker AirSep replacement elements which are manufactured by K&N for Walker and carried by West Marine, but it is essentially the same stuff.

West Marines stock number is: 6888838

Retails for: $31.99 and you get your west advantage points with the purchase

They also carry a larger size kit for larger size elements too.

For anyone else interested out there, WM carries the full line of Walker Airsep products including retrofit airsep kits and accessories.

Tim
 
Thanks guys, but I got bigger fish to fry now.... After removing the blankets I noticed that the flange on the exhaust part of the turbo has rusted/broken off! What fun!!!!! I've done this before.... Its those 4 bolts connecting the exhaust side of the turbo to the manifold that are impossible to remove! Any suggestions?

I think I will remove the whole damn thing by unbolting the removable piece of the exhaust manifold, undoing the turbo oil lines, disconnect the turbo from the intercooler and pull the whole SOB out to the dock and grind those
F#@Kers off.... oh yea, I remember the last time I did this.....FUN FUN FUN.
 
Here she is!
 
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The *^*(&^&*%&%()))***** bolts....
 
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Mr. Grinder is my new friend. Took all of 5 minutes. Last time I used a chisel in the engine room. Took at least an hour. Now I'll have a chance to paint that green turbo...
 
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Captned - I think you hijacked your own thread.

The cheaper alternative to Walkers proprietary filter cleaner is metasilicate detergent. Something like Purple Power Cleaner. Rinse with plenty of water and let air dry. Once dry use K&N oil.
 
K&N cleaning and recharging kits are about $20.00 Why go to worst when you can get the same stuff for half?

Check a local NAPA autoparts or one of the better parts houses.
 
Independant airflow studies conclude that the cleaning interval and overall cleanable life span of the element is reduced by using a detergent of any other cleaner type other than recommended by K&N/Walker. When it's all said an done, it is usually more efficient use of ones time just to replace the element when it come time to do so instead of cleaning them.
 
"Captned - I think you hijacked your own thread."

LOL... yea I think I did....Is this a first? More work to do tomorrow. Where can I get one of those turbo exhausts? What is the proper name for it. I forget at the moment. I bet Detroit Diesel will want an arm, leg and the shirt off my back for one of them...


Captned
 
I have always bought the K&N cleaning kit, but before using it I first used a good liquid dishwashing detergent, such as Palmolive in hot water. After all, it's cheap and I already have it. I use the same (straight) on my hands after changing engine oil or gun cleaning oil (Breakfree CLP).

After about 10 years the fibers on the K&N start to fail and need replacing, so if yours are at or near this stage, just buy new ones. Be careful of the springs that hold the air cleaners on--they can be hard to fit into the holes on each end of the mountings. They can get away from you (use needle nose pliers) and not only rip a painful trough through your hand but disappear into the depths of your bilge. And they will try to put your eye out on the way. Having learned this, I carry four spare springs.
 
A simple tool which makes the air filter springs removal/replacement is an old flat-tip screwdriver. Cut a 'v' notch on the side of the screwdriver blade with a Dremel tool or a hack saw. Makes that job much easier and safer as the springs won't get away from you and fly off somewhere hard to find/retrieve.
 
The only safe (and semi foolproof) way to handle extension springs is with a spring hook.
The ones from Motion Pro and Snapon are bitchin, but pricey, so make your own. Take 3/32" welding wire (or similar) and form a finger sized ring in one end, then bend a tight hook in the other end. Coat hanger wire works in a pinch.
The total length of the finished tool should be 4~6 inches for best control, though you can make super long ones for those impossible to reach places.
The advantages of using a spring hook are many, not only will you launch the springs at supersonic speed into the far reaches of nowhere far less often, but when you do, they're launched away from you so injuries are more or less prevented. Also you avoid stabbing yourself with either the spring or the screwdriver, or slipping with needlenose pliers and cutting the back of your hand on something sharp.
Dirt bike riders (like me) learned the hard way about spring hooks when exhaust pipes began to be attached with gnarly strong springs 30 years ago.
 
Walker Engineering offers a "Spring Removal Tool" for removing/replacing the springs on the original Airseps. It can be purchased at some West Marine stores or over their internet site for $14.99 (free shipping). Their part number is: 6888978 http://ecatalog.westmarine.com/full.asp?page=0615&LinkBackProdId=159944 It's the yellow hook looking thing on this page.

As a note: Walker's newer style CCE Airsep system (upgrade to the original model Airsep) has a clamp to hold the element onto the airsep body, eliminating the springs.

It's not set up in the West Marine system but can be special ordered. http://walkerairsep.com/product_detail.asp?id=589
 
Here in VA I have bought the K&N filter cleaning kits at PEP Boys and Auto Zone. They were much less expensive than Worst Marine. Bob
 
Surfdancer, where is your boat berthed? We're currently at Bennetts Creek in Suffolk.
 

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