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Haul Out Checklist

  • Thread starter Thread starter Freestyle
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Freestyle

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Joined
Apr 12, 2005
Messages
548
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
67' COCKPIT MY (1987 - 1995)
Planning our first haul out in 7 years and only second in 13 years since I bought the boat. Stabilizer service, bottom paint, and a new thru hull transducer are on the plate. Should be a week or two on the hard unless something unexpected.

Anyone have a checklist or anecdotal "don't forget to.... before you haul"?

Do I close the seacock on the water maker to keep it wet or do something else to protect it?

What else? We just don't do this enough to be good at it.

Thanks

Bruce

Freestyle
1986 62 CPMY (54 MY with ext)
Tampa
 
Pull the props and have them scanned and tuned.
Check cutlass bearings.
Check all through hull fittings and valves.
Check the Trim tab bolts and fasteners.
 
Your water maker should have been fresh water flushed weekly and they usually have a check valve where the fresh water is injected, past the feed pump, so closing the sea cock will not make a difference

On some boats the Air con system can loose prime after a haul out so closing that sea cock saves time at launch. Gens and Mains are self priming so no need to close them

After launch, don’t let the yard rush you to leave, do all your checks. When starting mains and gens after a haul out I always start the one at a time and check the raw water pumps stay cold. In theory they are self priming but years ago I had one not self prime on a 3412. Mechanic was in the ER for sea trial and didn’t check. Had to come back on one engine and burned up the impeller.
 
My extra items: check rudder packing. if needed, good time to drop rudders. grease all thru-hulls. check bonding system. steam clean carpets, unless you can get that done at homeport.
check fiberglass exhaust tubes-mine didn't have crush collars and one started leaking badly. could only repair, while hauled.
 
Some black water tanks may siphon out a lil while out of the water. Make sure that sea-cock is closed.

Out of the water is a great time to exercise all sea-cocks.

You mentioned one transducer to be replaced. Check the fairing blocks on any others.
Do any other ducers have updated models you could install now also?
I forgot all about the N2K ducer I was supposed to install our last haul.

Cutlass bearings.
Cutlass, rudder log, shaft log hardware.
Shaft and rudder seals.

Props sent to shop for scanning.
Compare with spares, what prop set is the best to install next.
Inspect prop shaft nuts. Spares??

Touch up paint on boot stripe.
Touch up on transom name / artwork.

Hull wax.

I can spend more of your money all day here.
 
My boat has external strainers on the engine seawater and genset seawater intakes. I drop the strainers and check the screens, about every 2nd or 3rd year; I had one screen fall apart on me from (I guess) dezincification) a few years back.
 
Install underwater lights.
 
Re: Haul Out Checklist- Raw Water Pump Priming

I picked up on the issue with the 3412 Raw Water Pumps not priming. My 65 Hatteras enclosed bridge with 3412's is going to be out of the water for several weeks on a ship to Ft Lauderdale. I know my raw water pumps are above the water line and i expect the supply lines will dry out even if I close the sea cocks. What is the best practice to assure the pumps prime when I get dropped back in?
 
I ran a 70 with 1400hp 3412Es for years. They would normally self prime even if hauled out with the SC open.

However, ours had the fuel cooler BEFORE the raw water pump and I started having occasional priming issue even in the water. One time I started that engine from the ER and when I shut it down I heard a sucking noise. Turn out there was a pin hole in the fuel cooler that would occasionally cause the issue.

Also, whatever grass or debris would make it past the strainer would end up clogging the fuel cooler intake over time.
 
There is an anode in the HX that can be removed and make a fitting with a garden hose adapter. Use that to prime the cooling system. Close the pickup valve when doing this. It will also prime the dripless shaft seals if you have them.

Walt Hoover
 

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