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Fuller Brush Portholes Replacement

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spartonboat1

Legendary Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2005
Messages
2,494
Hatteras Model
43' DOUBLE CABIN (1970 - 1984)
The PO used to dock on his own, i.e. single-handle, and right over some pilings. Therefore the bottom half of many stbd side portholes are broken out or chipped away. Not a hazard to water ingress, but uglyanyway, plus the surveyors ding them/me

At any rate, since Fuller Brush is now willing to sell pieces parts I would only need to replace the liner shell throughhull from the interior to the exterior, plus probably the piece of exterior trim that sits flat on the hull around the porthole.

Long preamble, short question. What will be the most difficult aspect of doing the R&R. Is the shell bonded in, or the exterior trim bonded on like crazy.

What's my worse case effort area? Time for one of those new highspeed buzzer cutters, etc.?
 
I have done all 6 in our boat. It would be next to impossible without a Fein Multimaster. I used the multimaster to cut under the trim ring and cut the 5200 that was many years old as well as cut the 5200 that held in the porthole itself. I woudl estimate about 1 to 2 hours per porthose with cleanup. Could be less if you have someone to help you. I had help, so it took a little more than 1/2 a day to do all 6, but we were pros by the time we did the last one.
 
I've used a Fein Multimaster (borrowed from Dr Jim) and agree it's a superb tool and would be invaluable for the work you are talking about. But one of the guys that does a lot of boat work at our marina recently bought a Dremel version of the same thing (I didn't know it existed until I saw him using it) that he swears by and, as he put it, "Why pay 300 bucks for something you can buy for 100 bucks?"

I am not suggesting that the Dremel is equal in quality - based on the price difference, I'm sure it is not though since the Fein is made in Europe, the Euro/dollar ratio works against it a bit. It might be worth looking into the dremel - this guy does a LOT of boat work with it. I don't own either one and I have not personally used the dremel so I can't directly compare them.

I will be pulling the aft windows from the master stateroom this season and expect to be using one of those two tools to do so!
 
Ed did that exact same job (replaced the main part that goes through the hull and the trim ring) on the master stateroom portlight that a StinkRay took out while docking when he backed into my portlight and broke off the part that protrudes out from the hull a little bit. He didn't have that nice tool (but he does now!). As I recall, he got it out without too much headache using a scraper. But if you have more than just the one to do, you really should get the tool. I do recall him saying how much easier and faster it would have been with the tool.
 
I have not used the Fein tool, but the $39 Harbor Freight version works great. I highly recommend that type of tool for cutting 5200. I used it to get my power inlet surrounds off and it was a huge time saver.
 
I have one to do too...WTF is a Fein Multimaster? And what is the Harbor Freight one called? I figure for doing ONE...the HF version should be adequate.
 
I've changed quite a few of mine too. Fortunately, they were able to come out without cutting anything. Just worked a putty knife in from the outside after prying off the ring.
Two things to consider on installing the new ones. I cut mine off even with the outside ring so that they wouldn't break again and or be pushed in by a low fender. I know it takes away from the original look but functionally they are much better.
Second, consider NOT using screws to attach the new outside rings. The caulk is sufficient to hold them in place (tape till dry). Then you don't have screws that seem to always attract rust.
 
MikeP said:
Here's a test of the Fein plus the Dremel and the Bosch version of same.

http://www.toolsnob.com/archives/2008/10/dremel_dremel_multimax_oscilla.php
Click to expand...

I read the reviews, plus the blog posts and the separate Rockwell review. Surprised they had not heard of Rockwell. I thought they were a commercial grade of old-line tools.

The review is from 2008, so maybe there are upgraded reviews, but I have not looked. I have had Bosch tools, which have been excellent, but the review did not like the 8min life of the 12v batt. Maybe they are up to the 18v now with LithIon.

So I'll check some more.

Good to know that the Fein/et al are needed to do this. I have a small air vent cover I have not been able to get off, because of the 5200, so I will try the tool (whatever I buy) on that.

If anyone has any more info, please post!
 
I just had a pro tell me that he uses "Toulene" to eat op 5200. It might have been Toluall. I guess you just wet the 5200 and it softens immedietly. I never use 5200 because of its permanance. 4200 is great and can be removed.
 
Maynard Rupp said:
I just had a pro tell me that he uses "Toulene" to eat op 5200. It might have been Toluall. I guess you just wet the 5200 and it softens immedietly. I never use 5200 because of its permanance. 4200 is great and can be removed.
Click to expand...

I thought the old phrase was "...4200 above the waterline, 5200 below the waterline...". 5200 was to be like an old time marriage, "forever".
 
spartonboat1 said:
I thought the old phrase was "...4200 above the waterline, 5200 below the waterline...". 5200 was to be like an old time marriage, "forever".
Click to expand...

5200 is used below the waterline because it holds well and lacks UV protection. 4100 and 4000 have the UV so they can be used above. Debond or other chemicals will soften the caulk for removal.
 
The Fein Multimaster is one of those tools that the longer you own it, the more uses you'll find for it. Get what fits your uses and your budget; not everyone is tool-crazy or has $300 to spend, but if you do, they are the best thing out there. Also, you can now buy the blades from other companies and they fit- the cost of the attachments used to be formidable, but I suspect Fein will get cheaper now that they have competition on the wear items such as blades and sanding discs etc.

Screw rust- look on McMaster-Carr for 326 stainless screws, or Monel screws, if you want to get fancy. Old Hatteras Yachts HAD Monel screws, until they got too expensive to use- I still find some once in a while on my boat. They last a LONG time.
 
Boatsb said:
5200 is used below the waterline because it holds well and lacks UV protection. 4100 and 4000 have the UV so they can be used above. Debond or other chemicals will soften the caulk for removal.
Click to expand...

Oh, I forgot, 5200 sets up in presence of water...at least I think that its other feature.
 
5200 will cure without air ( under water ) but it is best to not submerge right away.
 
I am replacing my Fuller Brush portlights. I have and can remove them, but what is the preferred way to install them. 3m 4000 on the outside under the trim rings and then 4000 the trim rings?
 
I recently bought port lights from sams. I have yet to install them. When speaking to roger(not sure). He recommended using sikaflex to seal the port light and to attach the trim ring. I'm not sure of sikaflexes adhesive properties but I would test a piece first. You can always use 4200 or 5200 to attach the trim ring
 
A friend took all his ports off and replaced them with 316 SS. he heated a putty knife with a torch and slide right thru the 5200.
 
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