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fuel polishing systems

jim rosenthal

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Joined
Apr 12, 2005
Messages
11,046
Hatteras Model
36' CONVERTIBLE-Series I (1969 -1977)
Looking at built-in fuel polishing systems. Gulf Coast makes them; they are nice, also very expensive. If anyone has had experience with any other systems and wants to recommend them, I am interested to hear about it.
 
Detroits pump enough fuel back to the tanks to polish as you cruise. A Walbro pump in front of a Racor will do it at the slip. I put one in my trawler because a tank of fuel would last two years before I retired. Not to open the discussion of magnets in the polishing system again, but I have three friends who use that system and they have the clearest fuel you will see. I still think they are snake oil.

If the T&T archives still exist, you might be able to find the design published by Capn Will.

Bobk
 
I'm briefly back researching for a friend on fuel conditioning for a used boat he is purchasing.

The magnetic fuel devices do have some theorectical underpinnings which I posted about
some years ago. Whether they are of practical use is more difficult to determine. It seems there is a reasonable probability they break up long carbon chains, crud, in contaiminated or older fuel. The degree to which this aids in real world filtration I could never determine.

I personally elected to avoid the expense of thingys like ALGAE-X as I never had much of a fuel contamination problem and only ran perhaps 150 hours annually on my Detroit 8V71TI's. It's possible to my mind they could aid in certain extreme situations, maybe more, but I was never able to confirm that.
 
Clean fuel in clean tanks does not need polishing. If you run the boat and have clean fuel there's no need. If you let it sit and have crud in there it needs to be done and once cleaned it should be OK.

Even with a BAP ( Big ASS Pump ) and a racor 1000 or two I cant get the results the professional fuel polishers do.

If you having issues have it done. If you need another project your not using the boat enough.
 
By the way using 2 micron filters on the primaries will do wonders but may not allow enough fuel to pass for the engines to run properly.
 
Algae X, put them in during our repower screwed right onto the Racors, fuel has never been cleaner.Also thought they were BS, a buddy bet me I would like them and I took the bait, figured they couldn't hurt anyway.
Fuel Polisher, last winter we put in a fuel polisher from Reverso after getting water in a tank because the cap was loose on the 1st day of a long weekend, didn't like having to wait for a polishing service. Installed additional pickups in all 3 tanks, used plugged fittings for the returns all hooked up to a manifold so we can also use the pump to transfer fuel when needed. Has worked pretty well.
 
By the way using 2 micron filters on the primaries will do wonders but may not allow enough fuel to pass for the engines to run properly.

Hey Scott, I hear that a lot but am not sure that I really understand this position. The 2 micron allows the same flow as the 10 or the 30. When any of these filters become clogged they will shut your engine down no matter the micron rating. When the vacuum on the gauge goes up you just change the filter. When I run 2's they don't seem to clog up any faster.
 
Hey Scott, I hear that a lot but am not sure that I really understand this position. The 2 micron allows the same flow as the 10 or the 30. When any of these filters become clogged they will shut your engine down no matter the micron rating. When the vacuum on the gauge goes up you just change the filter. When I run 2's they don't seem to clog up any faster.

I run 2's myself for 2 reasons.

1) I was given 18 or so free ( so far, More keep coming)
2) I change them every 50 hours

If not for reason 1 I would not do reason 2.

As I understand detroits need good fuel flow to cool the engines. Restricting the fuel makes no sense.

I am told that the 10 is more than adequite for detroits and 30 as primary is best.

For the cummins I recommend the 30 as a primary and the engine has spinons that go down to 2.

If you have Volvos or manns I recommend a good therapist.
 
Anybody else have the RCI Fuel Purifiers?

They were installed on the 43 when I purchased it. The are installed before the Racors. The Racors stay very clean.

Only problem I had was one of them shut one of the engines down without warning. Usually with a Racor, you will get some type of performance problem if you aren't watching the vacuum gauge. Drained it, primed the engine and back up and running in 15 minutes.

It is now part of my daily checks before I start now, even though their manual says 100 hour intervals.

Not sure if I like them or not.

Blaine
 
Jim, I'm planning to build in a polishing system right into the primary filter system. Similar to what mike has. I do believe that a large gpm pump at high pressure returning to the tank is key to the system. High flow at high pressure is key to "stir" the tank sediments so it can be picked up and cleaned. I'll probably use a 110v fuel transfer pump, this should be good for this. I really don't understand yet why the huge price for polishing systems that are currently being sold on the market. It's not rocket science or space shuttle parts...
 
Mario, let me know which pump you are using. I think it would be a better deal to build my own as you are doing. 120vac pump makes sense as it will only be in use at the dock when the boat isn't running.

Scott, you may be right- she only gets out of her slip about every two weeks. My job limits the time I have to go boating. I do try to get her out for at least an hour or two, enough time to warm up the engines and keep the bottom cleaner, not less than every two weeks, sometimes more often if schedule and weather permits.

One tank looks fine; the other has contamination. I think a Racor 1000 is big enough for the system, but I am looking at other alternatives as well. This project will likely get done this winter when the boat is laid up for storage Nov-March.
 
How does the fuel polishing system work? Where does the dirt go. How does it get removed. I have algae x fuel polishing system on my boat but not sure how to service it.
 
Jim, I'm planning to build in a polishing system right into the primary filter system. Similar to what mike has. I do believe that a large gpm pump at high pressure returning to the tank is key to the system. High flow at high pressure is key to "stir" the tank sediments so it can be picked up and cleaned. I'll probably use a 110v fuel transfer pump, this should be good for this. I really don't understand yet why the huge price for polishing systems that are currently being sold on the market. It's not rocket science or space shuttle parts...

Mario, Take it out in 3-4' seas for a few hours at hull speed, with half full tanks or less and you will probably stir up enough to make a significant difference.

Re the post on having one dirty tank, check your fuel fill. The Buna N O-rings on the cap can and do go bad and need regular service. I speak from experience. Cheap job and easy to get at any hydraulic shop. Just be sure the rings are Buna N. Even consider pumping the dirty tank completely back to the clean one via a 2 micron filter. Add ten gallons or so and repeat. That should make it manageable and you can take a nice ride while you are at it, just be sure you are prepared to change a filter or two and re-prime the system during the trip.

Bobk
 
Mario, Take it out in 3-4' seas for a few hours at hull speed, with half full tanks or less and you will probably stir up enough to make a significant difference.

Re the post on having one dirty tank, check your fuel fill. The Buna N O-rings on the cap can and do go bad and need regular service. I speak from experience. Cheap job and easy to get at any hydraulic shop. Just be sure the rings are Buna N. Even consider pumping the dirty tank completely back to the clean one via a 2 micron filter. Add ten gallons or so and repeat. That should make it manageable and you can take a nice ride while you are at it, just be sure you are prepared to change a filter or two and re-prime the system during the trip.

Bobk

Hi Bob, that's exactly what I want to avoid. I do agree that the detroits do an awesome job of circulating fuel BUT the purpose of a dedicated fuel polisher is to avoid having to change filters in sea conditions that cause bad fuel to stop the engines dead. I could understand if the boat is used frequently. Ultimately a well used boat will have clean fuel. But for boats that see relatively little use, a way to keep fuel clean is a practical idea.
 
In support of bobk, I was told by a professional fuel polisher that the best thing that you can to to KEEP your fuel clean is to replace the fuel cap O-rings every year.
 
My 52C sits a bit and I have algae x devices. To polish the fuel, I did the following:

Make up a fitting that allows you to screw into the racor (mine are 1000's), 3 feet of hose is more than enough. Then I took 12 feet or so of clear plastic hose with the red reinforcement strings.

I connect to the boat's racor, install a 2 or 10 then down to 2 as needed micron, run the 12 feet of hose to the fuel fill and let her run. You can watch progress thru the clear hose. You pull fuel thru the existing racor instead of those messy portable rigs.

On this current rehab, we are examining a more perm. situation controlled by a couple valves and using the return line.

The pump I used was a 200 buck or so Northern Tool cheapo that works fine.
 

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