Float Switches

[MicroKap]

I know this topic has come up before, but I seem to replace at least one float switch a year and it's really starting to irk me. First, in my pump room, I noticed that there was water. For me to notice that there was water, there's got to be a lot of water to come up through access hatch. In that area, I have a regular bilge pump on a float switch and a 110v automatic bilge pump. Both failed and one of the outlets that the 110v is plugged into shows a bad ground when I plugged in my tester. When I went up to the flybridge to "manually" pump out the mid bilge with the bilge pump switch, all of the lights on my safety system started flashing and buzzing.

Second, The float switch in my forward shower sump failed, so as I was cleaning out the winterizing antifreeze, the antifreeze and then the clean water must have overflowed into the forward bilge. I'm not sure what made me check this last night around 9:30pm, but I opened the floor hatch and was looking at a great deal of pink water/antifreeze in the forward bilge. I flipped the switch to manual on the flybridge (light came on) and emptied the bilge.

Any suggestions as to why I keep having these problems?

 

[Fanfare]

Float switches just seem to have a limited life span, and that seems to be getting shorter. They worked better back when they had mercury switches inside, and when the EPA did away with that the contact problem got worse. Throw in the new ones made in China, and you have a real POS. They have three points of failure-- the electrical contacts inside (and unservicable), the hinge and the wires, which also move. As our boats bob about in the water the floats move in synch. There are an infinite number of waves on the water, and just as water made the Grand Canyon it will eventually wear out one of these components. The switch's environment is also as bad as there is, even on a boat. I have had some luck switching to electronic float switches which energise relays so they don't carry much current. They cost about $100+, and the name is in my file on the boat, so don't have. Some of these have lasted me more than 10 years. I use mine to activate the bilge alarm, not to turn on the pump. That way I know if I have a small or a catastrophic leak.

Right before my last insurance cancelled me for having 42 years of no claims (INA, thanks!) they made me put in another bilge system which was self-activating. I installed three Rule pumps which turn themselves on at intervals and check for the resistence of moving water. If they find it, they stay on until empty. Will this work over time? I don't know, but there is no float switch.

You shouldn't have the red antifreeze in your bilge. Sometimes the water just gets discolored.

 

[Brian Degulis]

The West marine float switches are just junk. Here's a link to better switches http://www.wolfwire.com/tefgel/frameset.htm. If your boat is 12V take a look at the electronic pumps available they don't have a float switch at all. I like then because they cycle on for a few seconds and sense for water so they don't frreze up from in activity.

Brian

 

[Fanfare]

Yup, the Ultra Pumpswitch looks like the ones I have.

 

[MicroKap]

The bilge pumps are 32 volt Rule 3700 gph. Float switches are same. I have to see what's in the shower sump for a float switch, but I'm sure it's a 32 volt.

The reason the bilge water is pink in the forward compartment is that the shower sump didn't turn on when I was flushing out the pink winterizing antifreeze and it overflowed into the bilge.

Brian, will the ultraswitch work on 32 volts?

 

[Brian Degulis]

The bilge pumps are 32 volt Rule 3700 gph. Float switches are same. I have to see what's in the shower sump for a float switch, but I'm sure it's a 32 volt.

The reason the bilge water is pink in the forward compartment is that the shower sump didn't turn on when I was flushing out the pink winterizing antifreeze and it overflowed into the bilge.

Brian, will the ultraswitch work on 32 volts?

Yes just call them to make certain the switch is rated for the Amperage I'm sure it is.

Brian

 

[SeaEric]

The Rule switches fail very reliably. I had 2 of them take a powder at the same time last fall. One was only one season old. I try to check them regularly and keep back stock onboard. On my last boat I had one of the 110v AC pumps that would kick on at regular intervals to check for water. Other than scaring the hell out of a mechanic one time that was right near it when it activated, it never had much cause for action. It's existence was a small bit of comfort though.

 

[GJH]

I just bought a couple of the Ultras for many of the same reasons noted above. Yes, they have 32 volt compatible models.

George