Fixing bent rub rail

[fissioneng]

The PO (honestly) slightly bent the end of one of the pieces of 1" oval SS rub rail on my boat. The bent portion is about 12" long and it is bent up about 1". Any ideas about how to bend it back?

My present plan is to remove the screws back to the point of the bend and place a piece of pipe over it and try to muscle it back. I am hoping I don't snap the screws when I do this. Does anyone think this will work?

 

[captddis]

Give it a try, however I have always had better luck using a new piece of SS.

 

[Maynard Rupp]

Sure, that rail is kinda soft and can be tweaked if you are very carefull. supporting the unbent part will be the real trick. In order to re-shape the bent end you will need to support the un-bent part. I would first try removing the screws just to the end of the bend, slip a length of PVC over the bent area and apply preassure. That should work well.

 

[Nonchalant1]

Those solid stainless rubrails are not kind of soft. They're VERY strong. One of my (1978 53MY) lift rail rub rails was bent at the end and I removed the whole rail so I could heat it to red hot with a Mapp gas torch and bend it back to the right shape. Then you need to reseal it correctly when it is remounted to the boat (5300 along the rail and in all holes for the stainless screws). I think it likely that you'll break the screws or whatever is holding it long before you bend the rail back and without heat and it won't bend like you want it to.

Doug

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Anytime you bend metal, the long side has stretched. One inch is a lot of stretch on both sides of the radius. After its been straightened, it will be longer. The holes will not line up. I took a cut off grinder and fit a new section in on mine. Make sure both ends are even with the undisturbed ends for a perfect joint.

 

[Walter P]

Doug's advice is right on.... If you just try to "pry" it back to shape you almost certainly will snap the screws which will create another problem. That SS rail is very tough and you will need to heat it and keep trying it on to insure a proper fit. The metal is much too tough to try to "tweek" it much more than a few thousanths of an inch. Also be sure to re polish it prior to permanent installation. You can use a bench buffer with a fine Scotch Brite wheel to smooth out the burn followed by a felt wheel with white compound on it.

Walt

 

[fissioneng]

Thanks for all the comments, as usual, right on.

The pipe bending technique did absolutely nothing. Too much spring in the rub rail and screw mounting holes.

At this point, I am not in a place (mentally) where I can remove the rub rail (about 12 feet long), heat it, bend it, polish and replace which is one alternative. I am also skeptical that it will look "perfect" after all this work with my limited blacksmithing skills.

The other suggestion (replacement of a short section) seems easier than that.

However, after spending some time with the bend, I believe I can reattach it by clamping it into position and filling/re-drilling all the screw holes since they are mostly stripped out. Perhaps over time, the "spring" in the bend will work the screws loose, but that should take awhile. In the meantime, I'll go boating

Maybe I'll take it to Hatteras School and see if they'll do a demo! LOL

 

[rrrestorer]

If you have it off anyway, take it to a body shop, have them straighten it and polish it. Should be no big deal to any bodyman.

 

[fissioneng]

If you have it off anyway, take it to a body shop, have them straighten it and polish it. Should be no big deal to any bodyman.

Great suggestion. Good item for next winter if it pops off again. I only have 5 feet of it disconnected right now.

 

[sportfish 45]

I've bent up some sections and was able to remove enough screws to separate it from the boat then use a piece of aluminum as a heat shield heat it and straighten it. It's never perfect but pretty close