Fiberglass Muffler Repair

[RyanB]

With the long lead times for a new unit, I decided to pull the muffler and repair. The tower portion of the muffler appears to be adhered to the base plate, then screwed to the plywood shelf/floor in the engine room. Has anyone had to repair a similar muffler like this? If so, what adhesive is recommended? I've read that a lot of muffler/exhaust components are spec'd to be 5200'd in place, left for 24 hours, and then you're good to go. Would that method be the same here? Would 4200 and/or 5200 be sufficient?

I can't find any info on the mufflers we have, no one seems to know who made them or anything about them. Her are some pictures of the two pieces and what looks to be old adhesive that sealed them together. I don't see that any fiberglass was ripped apart really, so I think the weak joint just failed under pressure.

Also I'm thinking if nut and bolting the base plate together then placing the muffler on a thin rubber pad with only a few screws fastening it to the floor. I feel the nut/bolts would give it a better/stronger seal for the future and the thin rubber pad would protect the bolt heads. Am I over thinking it?

 

[Jammin']

It's made of fiberglass, isn't it? If so, I would fiberglass it together.

 

[Captain Ralph]

West Epoxy and 404 or 406 adhesive filler.
Properly applied and mended, it will be the correct repair.
DO NOT USE 5200.

BTW, Have you contacted the factory yet? They may offer the real vendor or part number for the muffler.

 

[whoover]

Ryan, I would grind, sand, clean and then glass it back together with a good epoxy resin and bi axial cloth around the base to the upper part. Once the repairs are done put some water into it, plug the inlet and outlet and pressure test, 5PSI should be enough to check for leaks. All of this can be avoided of course if you can find replacements. I looks to me like a similar muffler to a generator muffler. Good luck, I know our season is short and what its like to have a problem that shortens it even more. I am waiting for new 6" exhaust hose and am told it 5 weeks to delivery.

Walt Hoover

 

[RyanB]

West Epoxy and 404 or 406 adhesive filler.
Properly applied and mended, it will be the correct repair.
DO NOT USE 5200.

BTW, Have you contacted the factory yet? They may offer the real vendor or part number for the muffler.

Oh yea, Jeremy at Sam's and CD at Hatteras were my first calls. Apparently this muffler is a bit of a ghost. The drawing for my hull number doesn't show this muffler, yet the drawings for a few numbers past mine show something "similar". The part #'s I pulled of the the muffler are of no help either. It appears that somewhere, for some reason, the exhaust was changed and my boat was warrantied or retrofitted with these huge mufflers.

If I could I would replace with a standard but I don't have the length to fit everything in. Probably why I have these buckets in there in the first place.

 

[RyanB]

Ryan, I would grind, sand, clean and then glass it back together with a good epoxy resin and bi axial cloth around the base to the upper part. Once the repairs are done put some water into it, plug the inlet and outlet and pressure test, 5PSI should be enough to check for leaks. All of this can be avoided of course if you can find replacements. I looks to me like a similar muffler to a generator muffler. Good luck, I know our season is short and what its like to have a problem that shortens it even more. I am waiting for new 6" exhaust hose and am told it 5 weeks to delivery.

Walt Hoover

Thanks, Walt. One of the guys at Wilson had a fiberglass guy that is going to do just this. Price is reasonable and he much quicker than me trying to learn on this one. I'm hoping for a few day turn around, then actually get out on the lake.

 

[Cricket]

Take a good look at the muffler on the other side, it's probably put together the same way so it will most likely be close to failing too, unfortunately.

 

[oscarvan]

Take a good look at the muffler on the other side, it's probably put together the same way so it will most likely be close to failing too, unfortunately.

Good point!

 

[RyanB]

Take a good look at the muffler on the other side, it's probably put together the same way so it will most likely be close to failing too, unfortunately.

I believe you are correct. I'm hoping to get that through this summer, yank it off in the fall and repair.

What are the chances of lightening striking twice...... (knocking on desk as I type this)

 

[oscarvan]

Are these at all near the waterline? If mine were to come apart water would slush in. Once the boat starts listing it would come in REALLY quickly. I in fact carry some rubber play balls inflated to the right size to stick in the hole off the stern should it ever happen. And I know it has......

 

[MadHatter53]

I sent pics and measurements of the new mufflers I have.

 

[RyanB]

Are these at all near the waterline? If mine were to come apart water would slush in. Once the boat starts listing it would come in REALLY quickly. I in fact carry some rubber play balls inflated to the right size to stick in the hole off the stern should it ever happen. And I know it has......

The water line site at about halfway up the exhaust port on the exterior of the hull, and there is an ~arms length exhaust pipe which extends up that the mufflers tie into. So I'd say I'm a good 1.5'-2' above the water line. I bought a 5" pipe inspection cap to put over the exhaust outlet, which failed miserably. For now she's plugged and duct taped up, but there really isn't any way to get water up that high. I like the inflatable ball idea.

I sent pics and measurements of the new mufflers I have.

I saw you email, and replied that I would be able to get those to work. I don't have the length to fit those mufflers in unfortunately. Thanks for sending it though!

 

[MadHatter53]

No problem.