Sam's is your source for Hatteras and Cabo Yacht parts.

Enter a part description OR part number to search the Hatteras/Cabo parts catalog:

Email Sam's or call 1-800-678-9230 to order parts.

Engine room insulation

  • Thread starter Thread starter Colwyn D
  • Start date Start date
  • Replies Replies 7
  • Views Views 2,748

Colwyn D

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 1, 2009
Messages
274
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
42' CONVERTIBLE (1971 - 1978)
The engine room overhead is insulated with 1" foil faced insulation. In some areas the glue is failing and it is falling down, I've been using fender washers and screws but the material itself is not very rigid so sags anyway. Some of the insulation is more rigid and has held up well with the screws.

Any advice on which material to go with when I replace the bad areas. Other option would seem to be a rigid panel over the lot, something like ali or fiberglass sheet?

More rigid insulation,

IMG_0849.webp

And floppy stuff hanging down,

IMG_0850.webp
 
If the original insulation can be covered with new sheets that's the easiest way. Clean up of the old stuff is sometimes more work than its worth.
 
I used heavy duty two face carpet tape after mine fell off. It seems to have held for the last 5 years. Make sure it's the type that has a fiber mesh in it. The thin smooth two face tape is to light weight to hold it.
 
I used heavy duty two face carpet tape after mine fell off. It seems to have held for the last 5 years. Make sure it's the type that has a fiber mesh in it. The thin smooth two face tape is to light weight to hold it.

Was it the black foam on the backside that the carpet tape had to stick to on the insulation?
 
There is a new sticky back insulation material called "Dynamat". I have been told that it is awesome. You peel the backing off and stick the sheets on.
 
If you want to simply keep the old insulation up, you can probably do it with a wire mesh like rabbit wire. Cut it ~2" larger than the panels, notch the corners and bend the edges down and screw it up with fender washers. Be sure to keep the cut edges recessed above the frames.

Bobk
 
Mine was in pretty bad shape. I bought some of the solar shade type material in rolls from the hardware store. Basically a type of bubble wrap that has foil on both sides. I was able to staple that to the overhead stringers and the old insulation. Made a huge difference in sound and heat transfer to the salon. Biggest improvement was no more insulation particles dropping down from the ceiling. Good for me and my engines.
 
I also used duct board and replaced all the forward and aft insulation on the bulkheads. Worked great.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
38,128
Messages
448,430
Members
12,481
Latest member
mrich1

Latest Posts

Trending content

Back
Top Bottom