Deck repaint over existing nonskid

[MikeP]

A couple of years ago I had the nonskid redone on our 53. This is the only thing I can think of on my boat that I didn't do myself other than making some galley cabinets.

The job looked great BUT the paint itself is not holding up all that well. The paint seems to be wearing off in places but the nonskid "particles" are firmly in place. It's as if the nonskid was laid down but not enough additional paint was applied over it.

So I want to paint over the existing nonskid/coating with the same paint. I am not worried about losing the texture of the nonskid, it's very aggressive and I wouldn't mind "softening" it considerably. My question is re prepping. I don't want to sand the nonskid off but I need to sand or otherwise abrade the old surface so the new paint will adhere properly. So what would work to roughen the paint a bit without taking off the nonskid that is in place? I was thinking maybe a wire brush but that might be too harsh. Any ideas/experience?

 

[SeaEric]

Ask Dr. Jim. He did this last Summer. I think that he used a green scotch brite pad.

 

[lumina]

Hi All,

Hey Mike, I've used an abrasive pad as Eric suggests in the past with great success..

PO had interlux brightside infused with a non-skid grit additive of some type and i just didn't like the feel or look, and the paint was wearing leaving behind the grit.

After much research here's what we did;

We used a very abrasive pad so that most of the grit was taken off. We then prepped with a solvent wash prior to painting.

We selected interlux brightside hatteras 4208 paint but this time we added west system 406 collidial silica. The result is a thickened mixture that goes down very well and cures with very small dimples and bumps. It's an attractive surface and passively non-skid.

 

[MikeP]

Thanks guys!

Scotchbright it is! (I'm using Interlux 4218 - 1990 Hatteras off-white).

 

[rsmith]

I've done mine more than a few times. I rolled the Imron with out a problem. I scrubbed the old nonskid with a hard brush and comet,I think that is abrasive enough.

 

[MikeP]

I did the green scotch pad and painted the flybridge deck. Looks great at the moment! I did some research online and quite a few people use the Interlux Brightside for this with the caveat that you have to redo it every few years unlike the two part paints. The PO reshot the boat in 1992 with Imron using the later Hatt color (which interlux 4218 matches perfectly).

I would have preferred Imron but I have to admit that rolling Brightside is so fast/easy to use/apply compared to the two parters (I've shot Imron on everything from cars to motorcycles to airplanes and think it's wonderful paint), that I really don't mind re-doing it periodically. DOn't get me wrong, Imron would be a much better choice by far longevity-wise but I have only sprayed it so I have no clue about rolling it. Plus I didn't want to deal with the other issues - toxic chemical masks, etc. Plus, the Brightside Hatt offwhite is a perfect match and it is easy to retouch whenever necessary.

I did the flybridge with 4218 in approx two hours including scotchbright-ing, cleaning deck with solvent, vacuuming to get rid of the dust, and masking whatever was necessary. I used a roller to apply the paint and a tack cloth to clean just prior to rolling.

The only downside is that I bought the paint at West Marine! It nearly killed me but they had it on the shelf whereas the local hardware store would have had to order it and since I'm leaving the boat in a week, I didn't want to wait... So I paid the WM price of 45.99 instead of the Hardware store price of $38.

OK, I can't leave that alone...I saw a brass-bristle cleaning brush at WM for 12.95. The exact same brush was 4.95 at the hardware store. Who said robbery was illegal?

Then again, I guess I supported them by buying the paint.

 

[flydixie1415]

Having the same problem with deck paint. Either I did something wrong but the interlux deck paint sucks. Can't keep it clean at all and some places have already worn down. Has anyone ever used a non traditional paint called Durabek.

 

[smoothmove]

I've had some experience with Brightsides along with an anti-slip additive. On balance, it performs well. The first coat will last 2 years, before it begins to annoy. You can recoat 1 time without the the anti-slip and it will last about 3 years but will not be quite as "anti-slip" as the first coat. I highly recommend using the 3M anti-slip additive. It costs a lot more than the sand based anti-slip but it is pure white and uniform in appearance and has a good feel while not attracting dirt.
Eric

 

[doc g]

The problem with going one part over the decks is that if you want to later re coat them in a two part paint you need to remove all the one part first, so you are basically stuck with the one part paints once you make that committment. .....Pat

 

[mdshore]

The problem with going one part over the decks is that if you want to later re coat them in a two part paint you need to remove all the one part first, so you are basically stuck with the one part paints once you make that committment. .....Pat

you can seal off residual one part with epoxy primers but you should remove as much as you can by sanding it down.


Pettit easypoxy 2 is a two part that allows you to go over one part enamels and primers .

 

[rsmith]

you can seal off residual one part with epoxy primers but you should remove as much as you can by sanding it down.


Pettit easypoxy 2 is a two part that allows you to go over one part enamels and primers .

Eazypoxy is a 1 part

 

[doc g]

Yes I have gone the epoxy primer route before and then you get delaminations of the layers and flaking of the topcoat. Don't even think of putting any masking tape on it either as that will pull the topcoat off. The finish is only as good as the weakest layer under it.......Pat

 

[mdshore]

Eazypoxy is a 1 part

i said -

easypoxy 2

 

[mdshore]

http://www.pettitpaint.com/product.asp?id=270

 

[mdshore]

Yes I have gone the epoxy primer route before and then you get delaminations of the layers and flaking of the topcoat. Don't even think of putting any masking tape on it either as that will pull the topcoat off. The finish is only as good as the weakest layer under it.......Pat

agreed .