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Cure for Stainless Surface Rust

  • Thread starter Thread starter Pete
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Pete

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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
48' LRC (1976 - 1981)
Our 48 LRC is going in for a paint job in about a week. I have been removing items from the fiberglass surfaces to eliminate masking and more important avoid edges in the new paint film. As I am removing parts I have become more aware of the surface rust on stainless deck items. Nothing that some buffing will not remove but am interested in preventing its return. Anyone have a suggestion on how to keep the stainless rust free, without frequent attention, around salt water. Also, I have found that Marykate On/Off works great to remove rust from screws and other small parts. Is there any down side of using this acid bath on stainless? Thanks

Pete
 
I use Collonites insulator wax to protect (seal) the metal after I use Collonites metal wax to remove the rust.
 
Fatboy is right, Collonites all the way.
 
If you use an acid, be sure to keep it off the paint. Allgrip and Imron are easily attacked by acids, but you won't see it for a while.

Bob
 
We always cleaned our ready-mixed concrete trucks with acid. The Imron still lasted for years. I doubt it would do much but take any wax off.
 
I just use NEVR-DULL on mine (West marine, etc.) It takes that rust colored stain off very easily and has some kind of wax that it leaves on the stainless even when you wipe it dry. I love it when something works really easily.
 
The boat had been sitting in the heavy salt conditions of the Mediterranean Sea for forty years, so surface rust there was. Now its stainless looks very close to new or, at worst, freshly used. Makes me wish all the aluminum was stainless...

My twelve year old daughter became a pro at removing surface rust from stainless. It worked for the leopard stained landing ramp, blotchy railing staunchions, miscellaneous corroded hardware and even a rusty Princess stove. She found that worked best was polishing the stainless with super fine steel wool (yeah, I know that it could cause your paint to speckle red but didn't so far) sold in supermarkets already soap imbibed. They call them JEX pads in France, and the results were impressive. She just wet the pads slightly and scrubbed the hardware, it did most of the job without visible scratches or flaking of the pads onto the deck.

The second process she used after scouring with those ultrafine steel wool pads advertised as "scratchless", was an acid based pink Gel made in France, which foamed up and ate away any residual rust or corrosion - yup, wearing a chemical mask of course - that she rinsed away with a hose upon completion within a few short minutes. I'll be heading to Corsica over the weekend to better tie down the boat, and I will note what that Gel is called and the manufacturer's coordinates, just in case they ship. It is really THE stuff, tried countless other products that just sat there wasting my money.

Off Topic: The Marina called and said she will be blown off the dock the way I left her tied down. Has got me worried as Corsica is having heavy storms right now. I'll try to post a picture or two when at the boat, so that you guys might better advise me to reduce risks of my first wintering afloat.
 
I have been told that stainless needs to "breathe" or it will rust. Made no sense to me but any inputs on that?

Barkeepers friend (available in many stores) is great for removing rust stains. The label says it is primarily Oxalic acid. I sprinkle it on a wet rag, wipe the ss, and hose off before it dries. Cheap and easy.

Dave
 
We use Flitz. Works great!:)
 
Steel wool on stainless makes me cringe---that is what give you rust, the impurities.
 
I second the use of Flitz, it does leave a bit of a protective film. Great cleaner for just about anything else too. Pricey though.
 
We always cleaned our ready-mixed concrete trucks with acid. The Imron still lasted for years. I doubt it would do much but take any wax off.

We have been using Backset the last couple of years, its a citrus base concrete removal wash, I hear its about the same as Mudslide. You can wash your hands in it.

I spray it on and let it sit awhile and then I hit it with the pressure washer, We still have acid for the trucks some driver refuse to keep clean, problem is it eats the truck away, the paint, the wiring, the hoses rot away.
 
Another vote here for Collinite, which a guy who details fancy boats in Miami recommended to me. We have used NeverDul, Barkeepers Friend (great product, still use it for a lot of stuff), and a variety of others. Since switching to Collinite for the rails ("Incentive" has stainless rails from the gates to the bow) and big double bimini, it seems I am doing a lot less touching up. Our boat gets used a lot (600 hours in the past year) in salt water, and not always in ideal conditions.

Pete, where did you decide to get painted?

George
 
Never use acid. It will create crevices where the rust will start. The best thing to do is to polish the stainless. Easiest way is with an compressed air die grinder with a high speed polishing wheel and a brick of polishing compound. I have used this many times with great success. The die grinder makes this easy work.

There is a book called the Boatowners Guide to Corrosion that gives an in depth explaination of this. Also, when you bolt any stainless back on the boat be sure to set it in bedding compound to stop the corrosion under it.
 
George, Blue Chip gets hauled on Thursday to start the refinish project. Jarrett Bay Boat Works is doing the refinish, using Alexseal. After my long investigation, I concluded that they are by far not the cheapest, but the quality of work is the best I have seen. In making that statement, it is their entire process that I decided I wanted and was willing to pay extra to get. Anyone that has investigated painting discovers that process and results vary greatly. Even at the Jarrett Bay site, there are multiple refinish businesses and some owners that haul at their yard and bring in their own crew. My only advice is anyone considering a refinish get deep into the subject, understand what is being offered for the price, talk to prior customers, determine what quality you will accept, and choose carefully.

If there is interest I will post some progress pictures.

Pete
 
Pete,

I too have heard a lot about Jarrett Bay work and would certainly be interested in seeing progress pictures!
Dan
 

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