Conversion to use 12v LEDs in 32v sockets

[barkdee]

Here's how I've converted my 32 volt lighting to use 12 volt LEDs. Takes a bit of work but the cost is low, $2.50 plus the bulb cost. So far, after six months, the lights are working fine -no bulb burnout or converter failures. But, the parts are low cost Chinese Ebay stuff so, disclaimer, don't do what I do, and if you try this monitor everything regularly and make sure it's not overheating or drawing too much current.

I've used these low voltage DC buc converters to convert the 32v at the light socket to 12v.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-LM259...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

And these festoon LED bulb sockets
http://www.ebay.com/itm/36mm-31mm-S...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

With these LEDs for closet lights
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10PCS-31mm-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

And these LEDs for running lights
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4pcs-36mm-1...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

The process is:
1. solder three to four inch leads on the buc converters.
2. connect a multi meter to Vout of the converter -use alligator clips
3. Use alligator clips and connect Vin + and - to 32v. Watch the polarity. If you connect the converters backwards you will fry them. They'll spark and a surface mount resistor on them will explode. No fire, just a little smoke and a 'pop.'
4. Use a very small screw driver, turn the converter's trim pot until you get 12 volts on the output. Takes five or ten turns.
5. Turn off the power, disconnect the alligator clips and coat the converters with two coats of liquid electrical tape to pot them and give them some protection from salt air.

The converters can now be crimp wired into the 32v socket wiring and spade connected to the festoon sockets. Below are pics of them wired up. They fit ok in the closet sockets and fit just right in the running lights. I wouldn't use them as running lights but I don't run much at night and I carry battery powered red/green running lights just in case they fail while underway.

I've used one converter per LED light -drawing 200 or 300 milliamps. The converters are rated to supply something like five times this but I wouldn't go there. Heat sinks would be needed and the converters could be expected to fail much sooner.

When wiring up the converters, pay close attention to polarities. Check with a multi meter and know before connecting exactly what's plus and minus. And note the bulbs are polarity sensitive without markings telling what is neg and pos. I turn on the lights without a bulb installed then touch a bulb to the socket and verify what direction the bulb goes in. Then turn off the power and install the bulb.

 

[mykim]

Your post gave me some great ideas. Thanks so much. Received all the parts a few days ago and will start my install this weekend.

 

[Cricket]

Be very careful with the running/nav lights. people have been dinged after some accident investigations because the fixtures were using led bulbs which didn't meet the required USCG spec, or something. That's why the people selling led bulbs to convert from incandescent for nav lights charge so much.

 

[rustybucket]

Would it be easier/cheaper/safer/smarter to use 1 good voltage converter right in the panel box, after the breaker rather than a cheap converter at every light fixture?

If you are just doing light bulb conversion then the amp draw on the wire should be fine reducing to 12v as long as you're going to LED.

 

[Pascal]

I m not a big fan of using multiple converters although having them inside the fixture helps. I would also prefer having the converter at the source

For nav lights, I see reliability as critical. Cheap made in China converters don't belong there in my opinion. I know 32v leds nav lights probably don't even exist but then I'd stick to bulbs

I'm redoing all my nav lights this week, including new wiring to the source, using new fixtures and replacing th 12v bulbs with 24v USCG approved leds I almost bought led fixtures but figured when they failed I d have to replace the fixture... with standard fixture I can just keep a couple of led bulbs on board.

I using aquasignal series 40. Made in Germany (couldn't believe my eyes) They have a quick release mechanism and the base unscrews from the bottom to swap the bulb. Nice design

 

[MVCaprice]

Looks good!

I have been using the mean well led convertors in a couple places with some luck. Here is a link. http://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=ldd-l

One of the things I like about them is that they are ipx67 certified and are somewhat waterproof so they should live a while.

I also agree that convertors shouldn't be used for nav lights. For those lights I have been ponying up the $20 or so a bulb for the certified 32v incandescent bulbs.

As a side note. I recently received some good advice from a friend at Northern Lights: "Be careful with your LED conversions. You need to keep a load on the generators!"

 

[Scarlett]

There is really no reason to use led bulbs in running lights because if you are needing running lights you will be motoring and the engine alternators will easily run all your loads including running lights. John