Changing out Stuffing Boxes

[Dan Mapes]

We currently have the Strong Seal dripless seals on our '85 43 M/Y with 6-71TIs. The shafts are 1 3/4 and I believe the flange on the inside of the hull is 3 inch o.d..
So they started leaking this year. With all the flap about catastrophic failures due to over heating, AND the notion that Tide offers an alarm system to watch the seals, I'm thinking it's time to change them out for traditional seals. I'd use them with GFO packing instead of upgrading to the new seal solution that Tide is offering. They sell these at a discount when the old seals are returned to them.
So which style is appropriate? Gland, Spud, or the Cadillac Spud with water injection (Tournament Buck Algonquins)?
Given the amount of space between the rudder and prop I think I can get this done without knocking off the props but the thought of the shaft couplings having a rust lining that necessitates new shafts and couplers is alarming. Maybe we could get by with a trim up on the shaft ends it if comes to that?

Any tips besides lining the bilge with pillows and taking out all the hose clamps so I don't rip myself to shreds? I know, farm it out...

 

[ron6785]

Really don't know much about the different stuffing boxes your considering, but changing out the box and rubber hose is pretty straight forward, you have to take off the shaft coupling slide the shaft back far enough to get the new rubber hose over the shaft, you can cut the old hose if you dont want to pull it off.

Attach the hose to the shaft log and the stuffing box to the shaft log hose insert stuffing slide on compression nut adjust and your good to go.

The biggest problems is getting the shaft coupling off. There is a locking nut on the end of the shaft and a keyway, then the fun starts- if you are extremely lucky you can knock the coupling flange off with a piece of wood and big hammer , careful not to bend the flange. Failing that after you remove the locking nut and the keyway reattach the coupler to the gear coupler and your marina will probably have a shaft puller. that will pop the shaft free. If both fail, and you can weld or know someone can you can build your own puller, which the yard did when they pulled mine since I already had my shafts off so an external shaft puller wouldn't work.

 

[Dan Mapes]

According to the book, to pop the flange off, one drops the bolts off the flange, then slides the shaft back a bit and locks it down. Then back off the locking nut until it protrudes from the flange a bit, and then re-install the flange. The force of the coupling bolts tightening down should pop the flange loose.

Buck Algonquin has indicated the choice is more personal preference than anything else. Given the tight quarters, I like the idea of the gland style since it has two bolts instead of a couple of huge nuts that can be problematic. This is the style on the rudders. But what I don't like about these, is that they are easy to get cocked in the housing. Prior owner did just that and along with the drive shafts I am gong to repack the rudders with GFO.

At least I can buy it in bulk this way...

 

[ron6785]

According to the book, to pop the flange off, one drops the bolts off the flange, then slides the shaft back a bit and locks it down. Then back off the locking nut until it protrudes from the flange a bit, and then re-install the flange. The force of the coupling bolts tightening down should pop the flange loose.

Buck Algonquin has indicated the choice is more personal preference than anything else. Given the tight quarters, I like the idea of the gland style since it has two bolts instead of a couple of huge nuts that can be problematic. This is the style on the rudders. But what I don't like about these, is that they are easy to get cocked in the housing. Prior owner did just that and along with the drive shafts I am gong to repack the rudders with GFO.

At least I can buy it in bulk this way...

Perhaps your shaft arrangement is different than mine. I suppose if you can figure out a way to lock the shaft in place you could replace several longer bolts when you attach the shaft coupler to the output gear shaft coupler and that would act as a puller, however you have to be carefull not to put too much pressure on the gear output shaft for fear of bearing damage. I don't see any reason why you wouldn't take locking nut all the way off. My experience was that it took a heck of alot off pressure to pop and again the yard should have a shaft puller, which is nothing more than a weighted collar that is mounted between your wheel and the strut and is slid down the shaft with force and is stopped by the wheel this is usually enough to pop the shaft coupler off.

 

[Dan Mapes]

All of the force involved is going to be on the junction between the tranny output shaft and its corresponding flange. I haven't opened this up yet so I am curious if the nut fits inside the tranny flange.
None of the force should be transmitted to the tranny bearings, except the normal side loads of the weight of the shaft.

All I need is a good pipe wrench on the shaft to lock it down while I break the nut on the shaft loose.

 

[Vincentc]

I've previouly posted my difficulties removing the coupling from the prop shaft, and one lesson I learned was HEAT. None of the things in the manual or anything else we could devise worked until someone brought an acetylene torch.
Regards

 

[Dan Mapes]

Vincent, thank you!

It would have been disappointing to travel from NY without my torch!