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Bow mounted dock box

  • Thread starter Thread starter Americana
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Americana

Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2008
Messages
28
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
43' MOTOR YACHT (1984 - 1987)
My first post. I bought a 43' 1986 MY last August and would like to mount a dock box on the bow for line storage etc. I've seen many pictures of others that have it and it appears to be very useful. I'd love to hear from someone who has done it and what they used, how they secured it etc. All advice is welcome. Many thanks in advance.
 
I used four teak blocks to match the flat bottom of the dock box to the curved deck by belt sanding the blocks to different thickness. The blocks keep the dock box off the deck so water can flow between. Place the dock box where stanchons and railings will not touch the openining top of the box.

I drilled holes in each block, then in the four corners of the bottom of the box. I placed the dock box with blocks under (aligned with screws) in each pair of holes and marked the block outline on the deck with a pencil, and drilled pilot holes. After clearing the debris I set each block in caulk, put the box on top and used a screw in each corner. An alternative is to thru bolt if you expect solid water over the bow at any time....although that would likely rip the dock box apart anyway.
 
I have a pair of deck boxes on the bow of my boat. They are fiberglass off the rack from Worst Marine. I set them on starboard blocks bedded in 5200 with stainless steel screws into the deck.
 
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I took the two that were mounted on the bow along the handrails (like SeaEric's)and moved them so they are in front of the seats.

That freed up the area around the anchors plus they can be used as tables when sitting up front for one's drinks and/or food. Or as a footstool.........
 
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I bought DECK boxes with feet, not dock boxes which have no feet. Then I mounted them with the same fasteners that Hatteras used in the 80's. They look like this:

150x150PKO071900099A.jpg
 
Mine are also mounted as Sky's cept mine have thumbscrews and not knobs.
 
I made feet out of 1/2" fiberglass laminate i got from Hatteras. 5200 only no screws to the dock box, SS angle screwed to deck with 5200 on the deck. 45'd the joint.

Excuse the picture of Joanne, Toby and "frayed" Patch...only picture of the dock box i have.

Ted
 

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I purchased my non-OEM deck boxes from Beachcomber Fiberglass "http://www.beachfiber.com/". All SS fittings and fasteners. I am quite pleased with the results. Only one item came loose and was my fault for overstressing the unit. There is one grump about Beachcomber on here, but that was about a custom unit.

They are probably not as super-heavy duty as OEM Hatt boxes, but these are sturdy, have been used by the USCG and have been in 70mph winds and have stood up well. They are mounted with 5200 under their feet to the deck, without fasteners. I dare say the 5200 has them firmly affixed to the deck.

My 2cw...
 
I like the idea of using starboard synthetic... I drilled a 3/8" hole in the bottom of the deck box after installation at the lowest corner...that way if any water gets in, it can just run out. It also makes in easy to wash/rinse drain the inside.

When the rough interior surface gets moldy from dust/dirt blown in, a spray bottle with about 10% bleach and 90% water and a nylon scrub brush nicely removes it. I keep a spray bottle loaded at all times for cleaning just about everything aboard...It can also be used to spray in bilge areas and under floors to eliminate dirt mold...
 
Thanks guys! Great information and the pictures are always useful. I'm leaning towards the Beachcomber boxes. Sky Cheney, that looks like a Perko fastner. I assume the plate gets screwed & 5200'd to the deck and the right angle is inside the feet with finish nuts showing on the outside of the box, or are they just screwed into the feet? What size screw did you use to fasten the plate to the deck?
Spartonboat1, I'm just a little nervous using only 5200 in my New England waters. Rob, I'm hoping the "feet" will match the curve and avoid the blocks if possible.

Trav, why 3M 4000 instead of 5200?

SeaEric, how deep can you screw into the deck?

Thanks again for all your help!

Mark
Americana
 
You are correct. The L-bracket gets screwed to the side of each deck box leg. Then the bottom threaded plate is screwed to the deck. I don't remember what size screw I used, but I think I used a size similar to what Hatteras used on my flybridge seats. Those are the exact same brackets that they used and yes, they are Perko.

Be careful about mounting to the deck. I had to redo all of the OEM mounts like that on my flybridge. Since the decks are cored, you need to overdrill the holes and fill with epoxy, then redrill your screw holes. Improper deck box mounting is notorious for casing coring problems.

If you do use those Perko brackets, I noticed that the thumb screw is threaded too far and that it hits the deck underneath before it really tightens up. My fix for that was to put a SS lock washer on each one. That provides a snug fit without scewing too far down. One nice thing about those brackets is that you can easily move the box from time to time to clean under it.
 
well rough water is rough water. I stuffed my 43DC so badly in a standing wave coming out of the Manasquan that i ripped the straps on the bimini with the force of the water hitting the underside. Stupid. I knew better and i don't know why the windshield held. Dock box never budged. Coast guard was out in a 44' showing newbies how to run the inlet. Course i didn't know that until i got out there! Turned around!

Ted
 
There is a company named Kennedy Products that makes a s/s turnbuckle type tie down that I am going to try. I am going to use them in conjunction with Teak L blocks mounted to the deck to prevent sideways movement. My deck boxes have built in legs that will give me clearance between deck and box.
Fred
 
Thanks guys! Great information and the pictures are always useful. I'm leaning towards the Beachcomber boxes.

Spartonboat1, I'm just a little nervous using only 5200 in my New England waters. Rob, I'm hoping the "feet" will match the curve and avoid the blocks if possible.

Trav, why 3M 4000 instead of 5200?

SeaEric, how deep can you screw into the deck?

Thanks again for all your help!

Mark
Americana

Yes, appreciate the concern, re: 5200 only. But the Beachcomber has a foot that runs the entire width of the box, plus I seated it in a cushion of 5200 and built a little fillet around the feet. I store outside and we had one winter of 70mph winds (stored several winters this way) and they are fully exposed, without issue due to the high winds; they are canvas covered is all. Of course, if I stuffed a wave, who knows, but wobble they don't.

If you go the screwdown approach, read Sky's post closely for correct technique.
 
Both my deck boxes are Hatteras OEM and are held down with L brackets similar to Sky's. They also have teak corner risers to make them sit level. I have never had a problem with them coming loose. One box has boat cleaning materials the other has extra lines and footies a sea anchor. I for got the miscellaneous junk. I have never had a problem with the boxes stuffing a wave outside of the great displeasure it gives you. I am thinking of adding a long slim box in front of the molded seat to store fishing poles and a place to put your drinks.
BILL
 
5200 is stuff to use if your NEVER gonna' take it apart.

4000 is almost as structually as strong as 5200 but you can get it apart. You never know, you or the next owner might want to remove the box someday. It's also has UV protection, it won't deteriorate over time.
 
5200 is stuff to use if your NEVER gonna' take it apart.

4000 is almost as structually as strong as 5200 but you can get it apart. You never know, you or the next owner might want to remove the box someday. It's also has UV protection, it won't deteriorate over time.


I understand that 5200 was invented by a (Dow?) chemist, although sold by 3M. He is supposed to have said, I made to stick together, so I know how to make it come apart. Ergo, the 5200 softening agent that is avail. I can research it, if requested; its been mentioned here before.
 
I understand that 5200 was invented by a (Dow?) chemist, although sold by 3M. He is supposed to have said, I made to stick together, so I know how to make it come apart. Ergo, the 5200 softening agent that is avail. I can research it, if requested; its been mentioned here before.


Debond is the stuff.
 

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