Bleeding hynautic steering system

[captcrunch]

Had to rebuild my helm pump on my 88 38c. Single station helm and replace the lines by the piston. I’m having issues bleeding the system and can’t seem to get the project finished. What are steps and advice.

 

[osprey]

Top Left of this page, Tips & Tricks

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[JuiceClark]

I just replaced all the steering hoses under the cockpit and repressurized the system a couple weekends ago.

We ran through the normal steps of 70 turns in each direction from both helms, while venting from the pressure overflow box at the stern...the entire prescribed ordeal in the manual. Seemed ok. Well, the next day the steering still had a big lag from air in the system. So, we went through all the steps again and weren't getting any air.

My buddy went up to the tower and cracked the lines, and that's where the air was. After venting up there, it's working great.

I guess what I'm saying is - after you're all done, wait awhile then burp the lines at the highest point in the system. Whether it was from bubbles in the juice or whatever, that seems to be where the residual air gets stuck.

 

[wpc691]

What Juice said. Cracking the fittings worked like a charm for me. It was really a tiny amount of air, but the pump wouldn’t catch while it was in there.

 

[Captain Ralph]

There two 1/2' studs (nuts) on the adapter manifold near the rear cylinder. Open these nuts till they stop, They will not come all out.
This bypasses the cylinder and pushes the air to the reservoir.
On smaller systems, this manifold with nuts can be on the bottom of the reservoir.
Starting at the highest point, spin all helms over (both ways) many, many times including the A P pump.
Refill the system and re-charge, close these nuts and turn hard over to hard over several times.
Done deal.

I have 3 or more Hatteras and Hynautic PDF procedures on this. To large to upload here.
PM me with your e-mail address and I'll send them on.

 

[captcrunch]

You guys may be on To something turning to starboard is working better then turning to port. Going to crack port line at pump and follow procedures

 

[captcrunch]

Got system going this morning then snapped one of the studs closing the bleeder screws. Are they replaceable or do I need the whole block?

 

[Boatsb]

Do you have an autopilot?

Changes things.

 

[piripucha]

I just went trough the same problem. The manual does not mention to crack the oil lines at the helms, just at the power ram, but it goes faster if you crack the lines beggining at the upper helms. I saw it in youtube !!

 

[captcrunch]

I’ll have to try that once I get a repaired or replacement bleeder block

 

[1969MY53]

Wealth of information here. Greatly appreciated.

 

[Captain Ralph]

Got system going this morning then snapped one of the studs closing the bleeder screws. Are they replaceable or do I need the whole block?

If the stud broke just under the nut, use a hack saw and cut a slot into the stud.
Snug it down with a flat blade screwdriver.

Search e-bay for another manifold (used) if needed before shelling out the bux to Dometic Corp (current owner of Hynautic, BayStar & TeleFlex).

 

[captcrunch]

I will look to see if I have room to cut a slot. I already pulled the manifold to start looking for a replacement. I’m told they’re about $300

 

[Boatsb]

It's a simple fix. Buy the new one and have a very reliable critical system. Its only $300. That's 2 tanks of diesel in my truck.

 

[Captain Ralph]

I will look to see if I have room to cut a slot. I already pulled the manifold to start looking for a replacement. I’m told they’re about $300 

Do not throw the old one away.
Back in the old days when walking, up-hill, in the snow, both ways to school was the norm, these parts were field serviceable.
Sadly thru the years and different owners of the ole Hynautic Corp, these service parts have been used up, lost or disposed of. When the last original Hynautic parts are used up, there will be no more.
Bay/Sea-Star did make good strides in merging different systems together but when the old Hynautic stuff is used up, it's gone.

My rant;
Keep all those old Hynautic parts. The next time somebody breaks one of those studs, We may recall that captcrunch had a good one at one time.

 

[krush]

It's around $200 for the relief valve block. Just get a new one if yours is messed up and be done with it. Bleeding is super simple with working relief valve....all you do is open both valves on the block and go and crank all the wheels (they spin easy with relief open).

There is a 950psi and a lower 500 psi. I think most newer boats use the 950. You may find it cheaper, but this place usually has good prices: https://www.go2marine.com/Hynautic-Relief-Valve-950psi

Most all the online vendors drop ship from Land-n-Sea.

 

[captcrunch]

Got the new valve and appreciate the guidance of bleeding from top all working great again

 

[Briankinley2004]

Ditto keeping the old valve. Mine was leaking due to corrosion where the screw holes are. Bought a new one and installed it. In the process of bleeding it somehow the new potmetal stud broke off. I pulled the one off the old one and used it. I have one new stud, one old and a spare now.

 

[captcrunch]

Brian, had exact thing happen to me with new valve. So i have one new and the other good stud off the old now