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671 Raw Water Pump Impeller Change, Pump Removal, et al

  • Thread starter Thread starter Vincentc
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Vincentc

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Jun 3, 2008
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
43' DOUBLE CABIN (1970 - 1984)
_ Or what I did and what I shouldn't have done

What started as a 30 minute impeller change a week ago is now almost complete.

I have an impeller puller, you just remove 6 screws, take off the face plate, pull the impeller then slide in a new one.

However Lilly Marie is 32 years old, and 2 of the 6 brass screws broke, requiring pulling the pump in order to drill out the broken screws. Access is a bit tight in that area of ER just above the gears.


IMG_0469 pump elbows removed.webpIMG_0454 pump before.webpIMG_0460 impeller.webp

To remove the pump you have to remove the intake and exhaust elbows. On removal I discovered that 1 1/2" hose was had blisters inside the hose and needed replacement. Nothing that a trip to the parts store won't take care of; however, one new undertaking leads to another. ( more on that later)

As noted in another post removing the pump appears simple, unscrew three bolts; however getting to those bolts is not so simple. I have since realized that a 1/2" short socket can be persuaded to fit in there and you can use a flexible drive to put some torque to the socket.
 
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With the pump off

IMG_0474 rw pump removed.webp

I decided drilling out the broken screws was within my skill set. (Not) A drill press allowed me to drill holes into the center of the broken screws. I screwed in the EZ out, applied moderate pressure, but no movement. More pressure only broke the tool leaving a hardened steel shaft in the center of the soft brass machine screws. I was wise enough to stop and go to bed. A trip to a machine shop and $35 got the screws removed and properly located and threaded new bolt holes.

Inspecting the two brass elbows I removed from the top of the pump inspired me to remove the brass cap for the pencil zinc so I could clean up the remains of the old zinc. It was a little stiff but came unscrewed; bad news, the brass zinc cap came out without threads, and I did not have a replacement.
 
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You may be able to see that the middle hole has no threads.

IMG_0479 pump elbow.webp


Not much chance of finding new pencil zinc or a brass bolt on a Saturday afternoon, I found a nylon bolt and nut and some liquid gasket and filled the hole. I should not be a big problem to drill that out and replace with a new zinc at a later date.

The pump says Detroit on the front, but Jabsco on the side. I believe that the number stamped on the face plate is a Jabsco number.


IMG_0477 pump cover.webp

I wanted to replace all of the face plate screws, but could not find them locally. On Tuesday I telephoned Depco looking for replacement machine screws (#10 /32 ) and they shipped me 12 that day and they arrived Thursday afternoon. Almost $3 per screw seemed a bit high, but I respect the issue of dissimilar metals.

Lessons learned/re learned. Seldom are simple maintenance items simple. Respect your limitations and be careful choosing what to do and what to hire someone like a machinist to do in the first place. Don't remove things like pencil zinc unless you have a real need to do so.
 
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Get a spare plug for every pencil zinc. In the event one leaks or like you just found is not reusable you'll be prepared.
 
By the way did you try to find a brass plug to put in in the mean time?
 
I had some 1/4 nylon bolts and nuts and used that with a little gasket compound to close the hole. The pump is back together and works fine. As soon as I have time to go buy some pencil zincs I will drill and tap the hole and install a proper plug an zinc.
 
"More pressure only broke the tool leaving a hardened steel shaft in the center of the soft brass machine screws. "

My experience over many years is that THAT is the result more often than not with easy-outs. :( Why they are called that, I have never figured out. :)

I'm surprised the screws were not available locally - our True Value up the street has them.

I wouldn't put zincs in the water pump but other folks have a different view. Our 53 has not had them there at least since the early 1990's; I can't speak for earlier than that.
 
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For those pump plate screws, you can poke each one in some grease before inserting to ease them out next impeller chnage. Or an antiseize lubricant of your choice. I changed out the brass for stainless hex head bolts which I got at a local hardware store. Corrosion is not an issue as they don't directly contact water. Easier to get a firm socket grip than a slot and screwdriver.
 
On the other side you may want to consider changing the ceramic seal too. That is if you remove the pump.
 
Rather than applying grease to fastener threads, use Lanocote or Tuff-Gel. They will not oxidize over time.
 
Easy outs are usually neither easy nor out.
 
Ive only had one instance where an easy out actually worked.
 
Best easy out I ever had was the one I put back on the hook at the hardware store. After spending 20 years in the auto industry I learned they do not work most of the time.
 
One more lesson learned. I spent $40 plus to purchase and have shipped to me 12 new, authentic Jabsco brass machine screws to replace all screws for both pumps When I attempted to remove the pump plate in the stbd engine I found it had ss hex head screws. All six came out without problem and showed no evidence of harming the brass pump housing.
 

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