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3160 cat problems

  • Thread starter Thread starter wmfels
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wmfels

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Aug 8, 2010
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
38' FLYBRIDGE DBLE CABIN (1972 - 1978)
i have 3160 cats in my 38my.. we took from key west to key largo a couple wks agoto have hauled just before arriving to key largo i got engine alarm on port low oil pressure we also lost coolant, its now in minnesota and im in the middle of winterizing refilled with coolant and its leaking out the waterpump, it appears that oil has stained the front of the engine as well. can oil and water leak out when the waterpump fails? i just dont see anyplace else where we could have lost oil..but what a frickin mess in the bilges now, i sucked as much as i could out and tried using oildiapers is there a cleaner i can use that i can just dump int he bilges to let it slosh around to break it up next spring ?
 
Dawn dish soap and hot water, with a long wood handled brush. You really ought to consider adding a few Disesa plugs while yer in there.

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I did one in front of each engine. Open them in the fall and wash all the crud out the bottom. Catch it all in a big bucket if that floats yer boat. At our yard, its part of the dust control program! I also put in garboard plugs for the engine bays as well. The bilge stays spic Y span... ws

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Looks pretty darn good for a boat that sank dontcha think? You got a little oil down there... I had slime over the ENTIRE interior of the 58TC !!
 
hmm not a bad idea since no drain plugs for the bilges, but my main concern is the oil loss . my water pump is leaking now so ive figured that problem. but what about the oil? the front of the engine has some evidence of oil staining(kind of all over the front of it) can the engine lose oil if the waterpump fails???? im short on time up here so i may just fill it with oil so i can wintriz the raw water side and worry about it later
 
Low levels on either compliment the other... to a point. My 12-71s are kinda tired, and if my AF gets low the temp rises and the OP drops. Never been that low on oil to cause the reverse tho...
Sending units are notorius for mystery leaks. Also if bubba used a brass fitting instead of steel (not cast iron either!!!) you may have a crack and leak there. You really need to dye check for leaks with a black lite. The reults are instantaneous. ws
 
Dust control.LOL we used to have a farm once a year we had a guy come in with a 8000gal tank truck full of who knows what to oil the roads. When I was a kid the old man used to send me around with a bucket of drain oil to water the telephone poles.
If yer bilge is spicky span yer not running enough.
 
I don't know the Cat engine, but usually the oil and coolant only come into near contact via an oil cooler...not a water pump....

For a water pump leak, you'll have to tighten the pump if loose, rebuild or replace if seals are leaking....

Sounds like your oil alarm went off....but the oil level is ok?? What did your oil pressure gauge tell you??

If the oil level is low, then of course you need to look for an oil leak...it might be outside the engine or leaking into coolant or raw water if either is used to cool the oil....
 
no its low on oil. oil went into the bilge. the water pump is leaking from the shaft seal, 99.9% sure anyway since all i did was pull the belt guard off and take a peek. well today im going to fill with oil and fire it well see what happens
 
Ok, if low on oil and oil in bilge: If you are going to have an oil pressure problem, that's the best kind to have...the easiest to diagnose and correct...

As long as the oil is not milky (off white) there is little to no chance of water or coolant intrusion into the oil....you can always take an oil sample for analysis BEFORE adding all the new oil to satisfy your curiosity for $25 or $30.
 
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idk. added oil fired it up let it run for 5 min cant seee any oil loss...huh weird
 
but there is a pipe coming out the front of the engine that goes to a T with senders on it and it swivels , looks like that may have been the culprit as its oily, but not leaking now
 
I love people that listen, but even love those more that dont. I was absolutely amazed at the flourescent dye check trick. Even with the leak being found IMMEDIATELY, weeping valve covers and oil pans as well showed up within seconds. The dye migrates into the oil that touches anything on that engine. Run it in the dark with a blacklight and even blowby glows in the dark.
On the other hand, spend a few weeks cleaning and painting then start her up and waste all that time doing it again. OTOH... oil leaking means that there is still oil in the engine... ws
 
Yep, the oil dye is Your friend, cheap and availible at Napa. How low was the oil? The oil pressure sender, should look like a small can. When they do leak, they are often inaccurate also.

Kiwi
 
sorry willy missed that first post by you ok dye..of course why didnt i think of that? ya the gauge is acting a lil funny. it was down 10 qts, not sure what it holds but shut it down just in time. the funny thing is i didnt trust the alarm cuz it would "licker" on and off so i figured a bad wire,til i looked at the op gauge and seen it low so went down to the er and seen the oil in the bilge. so next spring its dye...can you leave the dye in there? or do you have to change oil after?
 
All yer gonna need is about a 1 ounce bottle which is like #1 w oil with flourescent dye in solution. Leave it in and go for a ride, Youll be surprised or amazed at what you see. They sell the same kinda stuff for cooling systems also. Do the trans and generator while yer at it! Now on that note its back across the hall...
But first a word from the netspert HERE LOL!! ws


Q. What are the existing vehicle leak detection methods and what are their strengths and weaknesses?


A. The major methods include:


Fluorescent Leak Detection
Employs an ultraviolet or UV/blue light inspection lamp and fluorescent dyes to find even the smallest leaks quickly and easily. It locates multiple leaks and those not found by any other method. Its lack of disadvantages explains why it is the most popular leak detection technique. In addition to diagnostics, it is the only preventive/programmed maintenance method that detects all refrigerant and fluid leaks.


Visual Inspection
This labor-intensive procedure is very time-consuming except for the largest, most obvious leaks. Some people lay newspaper down to try to locate the general area of the leak. They will check the color of the fluid to try to identify what system it is coming from, i.e., red for transmission fluid, green for coolant, etc. However, it’s often difficult to pinpoint the exact source. Cannot be used for refrigerant leaks or for small leaks which evaporate right away. It’s difficult to detect clear liquids.


Soapy Water and Bubble Solutions
Although it’s inexpensive, this method has a number of serious drawbacks. In addition to being very time-consuming, it is not applicable to oil, hydraulics, transmissions and fuel. Only for refrigerant leaks.

Talcum Powder
Spraying foot powder on and around a suspect area may help you to find the leak if you’re lucky. But don’t run the engine, or you’ll make a real mess. This powder can also foul up carburetors. Only for oil leaks.

Ion Detector ("Sniffer")
Detects only the general area of a refrigerant leak, not the exact location.This fragile device does not withstand hard use. In addition, it does not operate well in humid conditions. Only for refrigerant leaks.


Compressed Air
Used in water-cooling systems, it can damage hoses, radiators, and other components. It can actually cause additional leaks and enlarge existing ones. Only for coolant leaks.


Q. What method is the fastest, most accurate, safest and easiest to use?


A. Tracerline fluorescent leak detection. It uses ultraviolet or UV/blue light inspection lamps and fluorescent dyes to easily pinpoint even hard-to-find leaks in minutes and engine cleaning is not required.


Q. What kind of leaks can it find?


A. Tracerline leak detection locates all leaks in any circulatory system: refrigerant, oil, coolant, fuel, ATF, power steering and hydraulics, as well as auto body water leaks. NOT for brake systems.


Q. What types of fluorescent dyes should be used?


A. Refrigerant Leaks
Use patented Fluoro-Lite® dyes in air conditioning and refrigeration systems. Fluoro-Lite works with all refrigerants (including R-134a) and is available in different concentrations to accommodate systems of all sizes. It can be used with refrigerant recharging or recycling equipment. Fluoro-Lite is available in one-ounce bottles (used with a refillable dye injector) or in the revolutionary Tracer-Stick® capsules, which are prefilled with premeasured doses of Fluoro-Lite to make leak detection even easier, faster and neater. The unique EZ-Ject™ multi-dose dye injector (patented) offers a third way to introduce Fluoro-Lite dye into an air conditioning or refrigeration system. Each EZ-Ject dye cartridge treats seven or more standard-sized vehicles.


Oil and Oil-Based Fluid Leaks
Our advanced-formula full-spectrum Dye-Lite® TP-3400 All-In-One™ dye (U.S. Patent 6,165,384) features the unique combination of two different fluorescent dyes. One is designed to fluoresce best under UV and the other under blue light. So, no matter what type of inspection lamp you use, our All-In-One dye will glow brightly! It is ideal for use in all oil and oil-based fluid systems, including gasoline engine oil, diesel engine oil, gasoline, diesel fuel, automatic transmission fluid, power steering fluid, hydraulic and lubrication fluids. A single one-ounce bottle can often be used for two or more applications, offering dramatic cost savings! All-In-One dye is available in packages of six or 24 one-ounce bottles as well as in 16-ounce and 32-ounce bottles.


If you only need to detect one or two types of fluid leaks, we also offer the following application-specific dyes:


Gasoline Engine Oil Leaks
Use Dye-Lite TP-3090 to find oil leaks in gasoline engines.


Diesel Engine Oil Leaks
Use Dye-Lite TP-3100 to find oil leaks in diesel engines.


Automatic Transmission Fluid and Power Steering Leaks
Use Dye-Lite TP-3200 to find leaks in ATF and power steering systems.


Mobile Hydraulic Leaks
Use Dye-Lite TP-3325 to find leaks in ester-based fluids, TP-3350 for leaks in standard petroleum-based fluids, TP-3375 for leaks in very dark or intensely blue petroleum-based fluids and TP-3390 for leaks in water/glycol-based fluids.


Fuel Leaks
Use Dye-Lite TP-3700 to find gasoline and diesel fuel leaks in fuel systems, gas lines, fuel injector lines, etc.


Coolant Leaks
Use Dye-Lite TP-3900 to find water/coolant leaks in radiators, water hoses, heaters, water pumps, freeze plugs, gaskets, etc.


Q. Is Tracerline® leak detection hard to use?


A. No. It uses a simple 2-step procedure that makes it easy to locate even hard-to-find leaks in just minutes.


Q. How do I use it?


A. Step 1) Add the appropriate dye to the suspect system and run the system to circulate the dye. (For auto body water leaks, mix the dye with water and spray or pour onto the area to be inspected.) Step 2) Inspect the system with a Tracerline ultraviolet or UV/blue light inspection lamp and all leaks will glow brightly!


Q. Are the dyes harmful to the system in any way?


A. No. Dye-Lite and Fluoro-Lite dyes are completely safe when added to the system as directed.


Q. Do I need to flush the system afterwards?


A. No. Dye-Lite and Fluoro-Lite dyes never need to be removed. In fact, they are designed to stay in the system so you can easily recheck the repair and find future leaks.


Q. Do I need to use additional dye to check that the repaired system no longer leaks?


A. Usually not. The original dye remains in the system a long time, unless all the fluid has leaked out, been used up or been replaced. So, all you need to do to check your repair is: Step 1)Clean the repaired area with GLO-AWAY™ dye cleaner or a general-purpose shop cleaner. Step 2) Run the system. Step 3) Reinspect the area with the ultraviolet lamp. No glow means you’ve repaired all the leaks.


Q. How do I get started in fluorescent leak detection?


A. Tracer Products offers a wide range of leak detection kits, lamps, dyes and accessories to meet your specific needs.


Q. What else do I need?


A. Just a car, truck or other vehicle to work on! You only need to reorder the dyes you use.


Q. Is this method safe for workers?


A. Absolutely! Just follow the operating instructions provided.


Q. Does using this method void new car warranties?


A. No. In fact, Tracerline leak detection is used by major U.S. and foreign car manufacturers in their quality control programs. Dye-Lite and Fluoro-Lite dyes are approved by Ford, General Motors, Caterpillar, Chrysler, J. I. Case, Nissan, Toyota, Volkswagen, Volvo, Opel, Jaguar, Citröen, Hyundai, Komatsu and other major vehicle manufacturers.


Q. Can leak detection increase my service orders and profits?


A. Yes! Finding leaks (especially those that were not located by other shops) builds customer satisfaction, enhances your credibility, reduces labor costs, and helps avoid no-charge reworks. Being able to actually show your customers their leaks makes it easy to get the repair order. Plus, Fluoro-Lite conserves expensive refrigerant and helps protect the environment by reducing chlorofluorocarbon (CFC) emissions.


Q. How long does it take for the Tracerline® kit to pay for itself?


A. It’s usually very fast! In fact, many servicemen report that they recovered the cost of the kit on their very first leak repair.


Q. How are service centers using Tracerline® leak detection to increase their business?


A. Since this method enables the vehicle owner to easily see the exact location of every leak, it’s easy to get the repair order. In addition, some repair shops offer this service routinely at a nominal charge for preventive maintenance. They ask their customers if they would like a low-cost leak inspection along with fluid fills, winterization, A/C and transmission tuneups, etc. Selling the leak detection service makes extra money for the station. And finding and fixing more leaks increases business dramatically! For full details, request a free copy of our guide entitled "How to Turn Auto Leaks into Super Profits".


Q. How is Tracerline® leak detection superior to competitors’ products?


A. Although others have tried to imitate the Tracerline fluorescent leak detection method that Spectronics Corporation (Tracer Products’ parent company) invented in 1955, our products are superior in many ways:

Higher intensity Tracerline inspection lamps give you more power for your money, greater ease of use, and better value.
Tracerline lamps are built tougher to withstand hard, round-the-clock use.
Tracer Products manufactures and services their own products.
Tracer Products has the widest selection of fluorescent dyes to find the broadest range of leaks.
Tracer Products provides the best technical support.
Dye-Lite and Fluoro-Lite dyes have been extensively tested and are used and approved by major vehicle manufacturers worldwide.
Dye-Lite and Fluoro-Lite dyes are proven in over 115 million vehicles.
 
There is an oil cooler on the port side of the engine down by the pan in the front. The coolers are easy to crack since the hose going to the remote oil filter came from the factory with a tapered pipe thread. The oil pans will also rust through where the dipstick goes in. The pans usually rust out on Bertrams where the engines are located outside the salon. I've never seen them rust out on a Hat. I would take those belt covers off and leave them off if it were mine. To check the cooler it's pretty much by feel. There is not much room around those engines in a 36 foot boat. The oil can't be coming from the circulating pump. There's not too many places to lose that much oil other than a hose.
 
ya tell me about no room! im 6'2" and theres alot of cussing going on when im in the e.r. ...i took a peek around expecting to find evidence of a leak for sure but just dont see any thing except up near the top in the center on the front of engine theres two senders on a "T" has some oil on it..its winterized now so next spring i'll look around better and if nothing its the dye
 
I think there's a tach drive in that area that runs off the camshaft but I wouldn't think you would lose the amount of oil that your talking about. Does the boat have the square mufflers behind the engines that hang from the salon floor? It makes getting to the stuffing box for packing, a real treat.
 
im not sure square i think round mufflers but had a plugged riser and burned an exhaust hose not fun to change
 

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