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120V vs 12 volt DC

  • Thread starter Thread starter Gina Marie
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Gina Marie

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 14, 2005
Messages
277
Hatteras Model
45' CONVERTIBLE-Series II (1984 - 1992)
I have to replace my fresh water pump. I have a 45C and am wondering if I need to replace it with another Pool Pump or can I use a 12 volt pump. Thnaks Tom/Gina Marie
 
I have a low voltage and a high voltage pump. The lower voltage pump doesn't put out as much pressure, but it seems to work just fine. I think it all comes down to how you use your boat. If you want to be able to pump water when you are not using the gen or inverter, then go with the 12v unit.
 
I know this will open a can of worms but... Are the two pumps run off the same pressure switch? I have a bunch of investigating to do. This shows both the 32v and 120vac pumps. I thought the PO put the 120ac pump in line because the galleymade failed. Maybe I'll get lucky again. :confused: ws
 
Mine each have their own pressure switch with the 120v unit set just a little higher than the 32v. That way you can leave the power on to each and if you lose 120v, the 32v pump picks up.
 
I use a 120v pupm primarily. But I have a 32v pump for backup. It is limited in its ability to run too much, but it will handle a shower and one faucet at a time.
 
I had a 12v on the 43' and it was flawless the entire time I had it. It was one of the largest flow rates they make and it had a Hydrocell to even out the flow.
 
I also have a 45'convertible and my water pump is the shurflo extreme 5.7. this replaced the ridiculously large galleymaid, gives far superior performance, is quieter, doesn't need a hydrocell and only cost about $275. or so. I don't know how heavy you want your boat to be but two pumps on a 45 seems like total overkill. my advice: chuck the other pumps, associated hoses switches and complexity, then go with one 12v pump and simplicity. in my humble opinion
Russ
 
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If you live aboard dockside and cruise with a genny on (say,for air conditioning) most of the time, a 120 volt pump may be fine. You could run it when genny is off if it's connected via an inverter. If you have an inverter, then if your genny fails you still have water.

A 12volt pump may not be quite a powerful but offers a water supply as long as you have battery power and the pump is working; no genny dependence. It's ideal for those who spend substantial time away from shopre power and a genny.

Most boaters get stuck in a marina due to either watermaker or genny failures. A spare waterpump can be quickly installed if the primary one fails...less than 15 minutes, if you can remember where the spare is stored.
 
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I hear ya !! I almost need to pull up the screen to see where I put half the tools. Thats if I didnt forget to enter them on the 'puter. :rolleyes: ws
 
I have 2 Sureflo Extreme pumps in parallel....one is 32V one is 120V. The 120V pump is set to come on before the 32V so if we have 120V power, it is the primary pump. The 32V pump comes on if the 120V isn't available. If there is dock water, neither pump comes on. They both keep pressure at about 45-50 PSI, while dock water is capped at 70PSI with a reduction valve. Also, if there is a large water volume requirement (i.e. 2 showers at once) they both come on together and it doubles the flow.

This system seems to work great all by itself. Noting to set or change when you go on dock power, genny or 32V. Also nice to have the redundancy all set up in case you need one or the other.

Doug Shuman
 
I have 120V and 32V pumps in parellell with Y valves. That way I can remove one pump for maintanance, failure, or whatever and still have water.
The 120V Grainger well pump (cheap for what you get) is my primary, and is set at 55 psi. It kicks ass. I routinely use my cockpit fresh water hose to wash down the aft end of the boat, no need to fool around with the akward 3/4" X 75' dock box hose.
The 32V galley maid is set for 35 psi and is for backup.
 

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