REBrueckner
Legendary Member
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2005
- Messages
- 4,168
- Status
- OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
- Hatteras Model
- 48' YACHT FISHERMAN (1972 - 1975)
Has anyone found that PH testing with plain old swimming
pool test strips also works with engine coolant?
[Engine coolant should NEVER be acidic.]
////////////////
In my pre post search, I found my own notes on prior coolant posts
which may be of interest to newer members:
If you inspect engine coolant and find any of these I'd be concerned:
(1) its all water and rusty and dirty
(1a) you observe an overflow tank and can't see what's in it because it's all rust colored with sediment,
(2) It's antifreeze but acidic,
(3) you have the coolant analyzed by a lab and they comment "Ugh".
(4) If you ask the owner when the last time the coolant was tested or changed and you get a blank stare in response,
(5) If during the sea trial, when the engine is run at WOT, and overheats or cannot be run at WOT because of rapid temperature rise (there could be many causes of this).
Engine Survey: In general, if a lab test analysis of engine coolant shows the coolant is ok ...meaning it is NOT acidic, is in the proper alkaline range, and has the propr addivitves esp without oil, likely you are ok....
As a new note: Want to do a quick and dirty [but effective] check for oil contamination of engine
coolant: open the heat exchanger fill cap, stick your finger in and fondle the underside of the heat exchanger [interior]top....If the finger comes comes out with icky, dark, slick residue, you likely have a problem. Might also found black residue if you have overflow tanks...
next step: do a pressure test on the coolant system..pressurize via the heater exchanger fill cap with an automotive pressure pump...if operating pressure drops say over five or ten minutes, you have a leak somewhere..maybe into the engine interior, maybe just of loose hose clamp outside.
Also:
http://www.samsmarine.com/forums/sho...engine+coolant
http://www.samsmarine.com/forums/sho...engine+coolant
pool test strips also works with engine coolant?
[Engine coolant should NEVER be acidic.]
////////////////
In my pre post search, I found my own notes on prior coolant posts
which may be of interest to newer members:
If you inspect engine coolant and find any of these I'd be concerned:
(1) its all water and rusty and dirty
(1a) you observe an overflow tank and can't see what's in it because it's all rust colored with sediment,
(2) It's antifreeze but acidic,
(3) you have the coolant analyzed by a lab and they comment "Ugh".
(4) If you ask the owner when the last time the coolant was tested or changed and you get a blank stare in response,
(5) If during the sea trial, when the engine is run at WOT, and overheats or cannot be run at WOT because of rapid temperature rise (there could be many causes of this).
Engine Survey: In general, if a lab test analysis of engine coolant shows the coolant is ok ...meaning it is NOT acidic, is in the proper alkaline range, and has the propr addivitves esp without oil, likely you are ok....
As a new note: Want to do a quick and dirty [but effective] check for oil contamination of engine
coolant: open the heat exchanger fill cap, stick your finger in and fondle the underside of the heat exchanger [interior]top....If the finger comes comes out with icky, dark, slick residue, you likely have a problem. Might also found black residue if you have overflow tanks...
next step: do a pressure test on the coolant system..pressurize via the heater exchanger fill cap with an automotive pressure pump...if operating pressure drops say over five or ten minutes, you have a leak somewhere..maybe into the engine interior, maybe just of loose hose clamp outside.
Also:
http://www.samsmarine.com/forums/sho...engine+coolant
http://www.samsmarine.com/forums/sho...engine+coolant
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